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I have checked the technical forum and have not seen anyone that appears to have the same issue that I am, or it could be that this is not an issue.

I am installing a set of Progressive fork springs (11-1152) on a 1999 SE. After removing the stock spring, washer, and spacer the new Progressive spring is app. .5 inches taller than the stock spring, and spacer setup. Is this normal? It seems that it requires more force to install the caps than the stock, is this to be expected? I have not completed the reassembly so I can't really tell if the suspension is not working correctly.

Any help will be really appreciate.
 

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That is normal as you don't use the spacer with the progressive...it is also wound different which makes for a smoother ride.

Yes it is harder to get the caps back on.


EDIT: DANGIT!! Done it again!! Posted under the wife's acct.:hoppingmad:
 

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Yep, it takes a LOT more pressure to compress the Progressive springs. That's why I made a tool to make the job a lot easier. The real trick is to be sure you have the fork caps aligned and not cross threaded when trying to reinstall them under the pressure of the springs. If you go to Rudy's website you can see the way I did it.
 

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I think you'll find that the ride with the Progressive springs is only smoother if you use a relatively lightweight oil (10w or 15w). Depends on how much load the bike is carrying too I guess.

Another question which comes up regarding this installation on US bikes is whether to put air in them and I believe the answer is no.

Nicholas.
 

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Just another ORF!
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Your discrepancy in spring length, is most likely due to your originals 'sagging'.

Length of the longer spring should be 390.6mm(15.38") when new and replaced at a length of 382.8mm(15.07") or less.

My 92 had sagged down to 382mm , when they only had 54,000km/33,554mi on them.
 

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Exavid:

Could you please send me the url link to Rudy's site. Am new to the forum. Thanks..
 

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DustyBoots:

I have measured the springs that have been removed they measure around 15.5 - 15.6 in. The progressive that I am replacing the stock with measure a tick over 20.5. I am starting to think that the wrong springs got shipped. Thanks.
 

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Dusty Boots:



My previous measurements may be confusing. When I measured the original Spring and Spacer and compared them to the new progressive spring that does not use the spacer. My overall difference was around 1.5 inches. The 1.5 inches stick above the fork tube clamp. My concern is that maybe the wrong springs got shipped. This is my first endeavour into the goldwing, usually I have a local shop. I thought this might be a good project to get my hands dirty.
 

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If I'm reading this correctly you have about a 4" spacer with the OEMs springs...

And with the progressive sitting in your tube you have about 1.5" more of the spring exposed when compared to your OEM spring with its spacer.

Aas above - the progressive coils will be a little bit longer and do not reuse your spacer - That extra ~1.5" of preload is actually prettly light and fully intentional.

It sounds like you're on the right path and all that's needed now is to fill oil the the proper levels, install your caps, cech torque on a few bolts and enjoy the nice new feel... :)
 

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Satan:

That's great to hear I am on the right path. My issue however is how to compress the 1.5 inches over the fork clamp. I have tried using most everything I have in my arsenal and that last .5 of inch is difficult. Any idea's on specialized tools for the this job? My major concern is that with the pressure needed to install the caps I fear cross threading the caps! Thanks for the encouragement.
 

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OldHDRider wrote:
Exavid:

Could you please send me the url link to Rudy's site. Am new to the forum. Thanks..
It's the top URL in my sig below.
 

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Rudy:

Thank you for the URL. That is an ingenious tool. Looks like I am going to have to uncover the drill press and make one. Thanks again.
 

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"it requires more force to install the caps than the stock"
I had that same issue with my 76 GL and my 82 CB750 when I installed the p springs
 

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Throwing all personal safety to the wind (I can comment that an athletic cup would'a been nice on more than one occasion) I use a speed wrench and a shop rag



If the forks are still on the bike, compressing can be tough with the 30* fork rake and nothing to kinda "lever" yourself against (tying a strap behind your shoulders using the case-guards as anchor points can help)...

With the forks off of the bike I clamp them in a free-standing vise-table (Craftsman and others) with a protective tubing section to not bend the tube, then just lean on the speed wrench -- marking the cap for a "thread start" point is a solid idea -- I generally run the wrench backwards, till it feels it's way into the first thread and then add a few turnsforward - the speed wrench allows you to put body weight on the compression and guidance while working the round and round with a free hand - I've read about folks doing this as a two-man team -- one for weight and the other to guide and tread things nicely (at 260lbs/18.6 stone, it may be a bit easier for someone like me.)

I really like that wooden tool from Rudy's site, but again - I'm a bit lazy and work only in steel -- Icut/welded up a tool similar to the factory tool then sold it to a neighbor:baffling: (didn't say I was too bright)









(rearranged typos to support aword-find puzzle)
 

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ive just installed progressive fork spring in the 1500, i bought them for the 1200 and never fit them, i got intouch with progressive and ask if they would fit and what is the difference between the 12 and 1500, they told me the 1200 progressive spring was 1" longer than the 1500 progressive, so i fit them and the ride is great
 

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Progressive strictly states on thier instructions "Add No Air"..... i run them in my 1100 i along with ATF in the tubes. Since i'm not a agressive rider, it give me the ride i like, Firm and really smooth.
 

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To Everyone:

Let me take this opportunity to thank each and everyone person who responded to my call for help. Everyone was very helpful and I gleaned some very good idea's.

This evening I finally got the spring caps installed and everything put back together. I went for a short ride and I must say that these springs really made a difference on ride and cornering. I took everyone advice and used a very light weight (10 wt.) fork oil, and am I ever so grateful that I did not put my typical 20wt. in these forks. With the 10wt the goldwing really rolls through the bumps without getting upset, this is the ride that I was looking for.

I must admit that I had to cheat a little with the installation of the caps. I called a buddy from the local custom HD shop and had him bring a t-bar and his over 250 lbs and together we were able to compress the springs and get the caps on with cross threading.

Again thank you everyone for your responses, this is by far the best MC Forum that I have had the opportunity to belong.

Thanks !!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
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Yes..You are correct without cross threading.
 
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