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1. Disconnect the ECU harness cable from the ECU. (See FIG. 1)



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Fig. 1
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2. Now remove the ECU from the bike's frame and unscrew the 4 screws on the end of the ECU. (This will allow you to slide out the circuit board to gain access to the pins inside. (See FIG. 2, 3, 4)



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[align=center]Fig. 2[/align]


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[align=center]Fig. 3[/align]


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[align=center]Fig. 4
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NOTE: The pin assignments are stamped on the circuit board as to what each pin is assigned to. (Very convenient) (See FIG. 5A)




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Fig. 5A
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3. Now reconnect the ECU harness connector and test Pin 4. It should have 12 volts with the key on and kill switch on run. (See FIG. 5B)



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Fig. 5B
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4. Next solder a wire that is (approximately 18-24–inches in length) to pin4 on the ECU circuit board. Loop the wire around the rubber vacuum hose to prevent tension on the wire. (See FIG. 6a, 6b)
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Fig. 6A
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[align=center]Fig. 6B
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[align=left]5. Now drill or burn a feed hole with a soldering iron into the ECU cover end (the end where the connector goes) and feed the wire you've just soldered through this hole. I used a soldering iron to create a hole. (See FIG. 7A, 7B)
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Fig. 7A
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Fig. 7B
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6. Now test the wire you’ve just soldered to pin4 for 12 volts. (See FIG. 8)


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Fig. 8
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7. Now run this wire along the frame and up to a lighted rocker switch. (See FIG 9A & 9B to see the style of switch I used).



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Fig. 9A[/align]


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[align=center]Fig. 9B[/align]


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8. Next Prepare the rocker switch and wires. Cut two more wires about 24” in length. Crimp a connector onto the end of each of the 3 wires. These will attach to the rocker switch. (See FIG 10). The center pole on the rocker is for your wire coming out of the ECU. The other 2 will connect from the rocker to the positive and negative of a 12 volt source. I used the auxiliary screws on the fuse panel so on the other end of the 2 wires I just cut; I used spade connectors to slide behind those aux screws.
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Fig. 10
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9. After all connections are made, it’s time to test it. Turn on the rocker switch. It should now be lit (See FIG. 11). Turn the key to the run position and leave the run switch in the off position. It should start even if though in the off position. While its running, switch off the rocker switch. If the Goldwing shuts down, you have successfully bypassed the ECU.
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Fig. 11[/align]


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NOTE: Notice in Figure 12 belowthat the kill switch is in the off position and yet the Goldwing is running as identified by the tachometer reflecting RPMs.


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Fig. 12
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10. Now that you've tested it and it works, carefully slide the circuit board back into the ECU case (allign board with wall rails inside the case) and secure it with the 4 screws you removed in step 2. Use a type of silicone caulk to seal the hole and wire you created in the ECU case.

11. Detach the ECU connector and the soldered pin4 ECU wire coming from the center pole of the rocker swich.Place the ECU back into the holder on the frame. Route the soldered pin4 wire through the connector opening of the ECU holder and reattach the ECU harness connector. Snap the ECU holder back in place.Make sure all your new wiring is protected and routed in an organized fashion. Affixing the wires with wire ties to an existing harness is a good idea.

12. If you haven't already done so, reattach the fuse panel cover and put all removed body pieces back on the wingand enjoy the ride...or should I say, OVERRIDE!


Thanks to all for taking the time to read. If you have any problems during install, PM me with your phone number and I will help you troubleshoot it.
 

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Nice instructions and pictures Kevin.

Now go check the inline diode A! :smiler:
 

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Bellboy40 wrote:
Nice instructions and pictures Kevin.

Now go check the inline diode A! :smiler:
Thanks Larry. Boy was it time consuming to organize and create these instructions. I did the actual mod in 1/3 the time it tookme to write this thingup. lol. Yep, inline diode Ais next. I'll let you know the results soon. With the help from you and Satan, I'll be a certified Honda Goldwing mechanic by year's end. LOL
 

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Yes you are so right about the tutorial. It is very time consuming to take the pictures and write up the instructions. Thanks for taking the time to write it up. Maybe it will help someone else that would like to do this.
 

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Bellboy40 wrote:
Yes you are so right about the tutorial. It is very time consuming to take the pictures and write up the instructions. Thanks for taking the time to write it up. Maybe it will help someone else that would like to do this.
That was the goal. To help others. I hope it does just that!
 

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Good work Kevin, thanks for taking the time to share this. But I'm a bit unsure of what this modification does. Is it to ensure we get a spark even if the ECU fails, or is it a kill switch bypass?
 

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Looks great. A little beyond my comfort zone. Would it also work if you split the wire loom just before the ECU and tapped into the wire the feeds pin 2 from there? :?:?

And what the heck happened to your speedo and tach face??? Must have been some short circuit. :action::action::action::action:
 

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He's trying to stay as close as possible to the ignition coils for the least loss and to avoid problems with bad connector pins, I suspect. Besides splicing into the loom is a no no.

BTW, that is actually Pin 4 not Pin 2 but it is the second one on that row from that side as shown.

I found other places that you could make a plug and play insertion connector but they would be further from the coils.

My favorite convenient location would be to plug into either the green or red connectors going the air valves just under the right side fairing pocket (C119 or C120). Of course as an emergency measure I'm sure those would be fine and no splicing, soldering or holes drilled that way. In this connection you would still have the active kill switch and of course it would have to be working correctly.

You could just leave the switch inside that pocket and not mount it at all.

Another option would be to make a 9 pin Plug and Play pair and insert it at C57 for the Kill switch and tap that off of the Black/White wire. That way you would not have the kill switch active and would still be making no taps, soldering or drilling. C57 is the third connector from the front of the bike in the connector plate on top of the right side cooling fan shroud.

Not too bad to get at through the fairing running light hole with the lower fairing panel removed.

You could also solder onto the Black/white kill switch wire at the kill switch and just run a substitute +12 wire to it with enough current to run the coils with such as a relay run from the aux power terminals or one of the EC power panel kits.

Edited for a bunch of stuff.
 

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Goldwinger wrote:
Looks great. A little beyond my comfort zone. Would it also work if you split the wire loom just before the ECU and tapped into the wire the feeds pin 2 from there? :?:?

And what the heck happened to your speedo and tach face??? Must have been some short circuit. :action::action::action::action:
Don't split the wire loom. As Rudy said, not a good idea. And yeah you like my gauge faces? That's what happens when you add 12 volts to the wrong pin! LOL! Actually I found these on eBay and just had to have them.
 

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englishted wrote:
Good work Kevin, thanks for taking the time to share this. But I'm a bit unsure of what this modification does. Is it to ensure we get a spark even if the ECU fails, or is it a kill switch bypass?
Thanks for the kind words.



What this mod does is give power to the coils to produce spark if the ECU shuts down spark because one of the safety sensors may have gone bad.



For example, lets say you'veintermittently developeda problem with your bank angle sensor; your ECU will shut down spark. Or maybe you've developed a problem with your kill switch; your ECU will shut down spark. But while stranded you may not really know what problem developed. And you won't know until you get it home. But you're stranded so what do you do in the meantime?



This override switch, when activated, says to the ECU; I'm giving my Wing spark so I can get home, whether you want itto have spark or not. I'm bypassing you Mr. ECU and any safety precautionsyou control to shut down spark. When I get home, I'll fix the problem and turn the switch off so you and play control freak on my bike again.



Hope this nowmakes sense to you.I used a lighted switch as a reminder that when lit,I am currently overriding the ECU.
 

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Rudy wrote:
He's trying to stay as close as possible to the ignition coils for the least loss and to avoid problems with bad connector pins, I suspect. Besides splicing into the loom is a no no.

BTW, that is actually Pin 4 not Pin 2 but it is the second one on that row from that side as shown.

I found other places that you could make a plug and play insertion connector but they would be further from the coils.

My favorite convenient location would be to plug into either the green or red connectors going the air valves just under the right side fairing pocket (C119 or C120). Of course as an emergency measure I'm sure those would be fine and no splicing, soldering or holes drilled that way. In this connection you would still have the active kill switch and of course it would have to be working correctly.

You could just leave the switch inside that pocket and not mount it at all.

Another option would be to make a 9 pin Plug and Play pair and insert it at C57 for the Kill switch and tap that off of the Black/White wire. That way you would not have the kill switch active and would still be making no taps, soldering or drilling. C57 is the third connector from the front of the bike in the connector plate on top of the right side cooling fan shroud.

Not too bad to get at through the fairing running light hole with the lower fairing panel removed.

You could also solder onto the Black/white kill switch wire at the kill switch and just run a substitute +12 wire to it with enough current to run the coils with such as a relay run from the aux power terminals or one of the EC power panel kits.

Edited for a bunch of stuff.
Great alternatives Rudy. I went this route so that I was directly into the ECU anda direct contact point closest to the coils.It really was an easy mod.The most difficult part of the procedure was soldering the wireto pin 4 but not that bad.



Thank you for the heads up on the correctpin #. I revised my instructions to state pin 4 instead of pin 2 in all sections that the pin was mentioned in the instructions.



If this mod saves one person from being stranded, it was worth it. Hopefully, I'll never have to use it, but its nowthere if I need to.



Happy Riding Everyone!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
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By the way Rudy, what's a Forum Ferret?
 

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For the BAC scenario presented above (which opens the IGN Relay) , this mod will supply the ECU directly, and feed the +12v side of the Coils and the entire charging system "backwards" through the ECU-Harness connector (IMHO, a pretty serious current draw for a connector/pin that carries only the ECU's current).

Additionally, do take a look at the ETM or other solid reference for your ride and DEFINITELY do measure AND WATCH the voltage on the "added" wire as Kevin posts AND WITH THE BIKE RUNNING... the black wire with white stripe is common across the models but not the pin configuration.

If this was done for pin#2 of a '93 SE, you would find that you've just connected power directly to the output of one of the coil-drivers presenting only the wiring resistance to the ECU's driver transistor where it was expecting a coils' primary resistance (expect magic smoke from the driver or the added wire... bike may not run well with power applied). NOTE: This is the #4 pin reference from Rudy's post above. The SE would run power on pin #4)
 

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kemoloney wrote:
By the way Rudy, what's a Forum Ferret?
It's a nosy little beast that lives mostly behind the forum couch and pops up when you least expect it, be it for fun, help or attack. You never know what, where or when. But those beady little eyes are always watching, those ears, always listening and that sniffer... well, it sniffs out things many others miss. :action: It's generally friendly but it will also pez you off every now and then too.
 

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Rudy wrote:
kemoloney wrote:
By the way Rudy, what's a Forum Ferret?
It's a nosy little beast that lives mostly behind the forum couch and pops up when you least expect it, be it for fun, help or attack. You never know what, where or when. But those beady little eyes are always watching, those ears, always listening and that sniffer... well, it sniffs out things many others miss. :action: It's generally friendly but it will also pez you off every now and then too.
:DLOL! Maybe I'm sorry I asked! Your description has me laughing the whole time I'm responding to your post. HILLARIOUS you are Rudy!
 

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satan wrote:
For the BAC scenario presented above (which opens the IGN Relay) , this mod will supply the ECU directly, and feed the +12v side of the Coils and the entire charging system "backwards" through the ECU-Harness connector (IMHO, a pretty serious current draw for a connector/pin that carries only the ECU's current).

Additionally, do take a look at the ETM or other solid reference for your ride and DEFINITELY do measure AND WATCH the voltage on the "added" wire as Kevin posts AND WITH THE BIKE RUNNING... the black wire with white stripe is common across the models but not the pin configuration.

If this was done for pin#2 of a '93 SE, you would find that you've just connected power directly to the output of one of the coil-drivers presenting only the wiring resistance to the ECU's driver transistor where it was expecting a coils' primary resistance (expect magic smoke from the driver or the added wire... bike may not run well with power applied). NOTE: This is the #4 pin reference from Rudy's post above. The SE would run power on pin #4)
So maybe I should revise my instructions to say that its the pin that feeds the coils (black & white wire contact) eh Satan? And maybe not mention the pin number? I wanna get this right.



Would this also mean that not all ECUs are universal accross the board for GL1500s from 90-2000 since the connector would touch different pins according to the model of 1500 that you own?
 

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Ah, hard to say really -- I think a good reminder that this was done for an Interstate and for folks to look at their specific data (referencing the black w/White wire would be good too)...

Also, a reminder that this is only the ignition system and doesn't much impact the "cranking" function of the starter circuits... (I'm not certain why, but a lot of folks tend to get the two systems quite tangled-up. The interplay of starting and reverse on those models may be why these are so often intertwined - something not present on the Int.)
 

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Bellboy40 wrote:
Nice instructions and pictures Kevin.

Now go check the inline diode A! :smiler:
Larry you just ROCK! Once again you led me in the right direction. I swapped diode A outwith diode C and my neutral and sidestand now function properly. Thank you Thank you. I will post the test resultsand other commentsin another reply to Satan.
 

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satan wrote:
Ah, hard to say really -- I think a good reminder that this was done for an Interstate and for folks to look at their specific data (referencing the black w/White wire would be good too)...

Also, a reminder that this is only the ignition system and doesn't much impact the "cranking" function of the starter circuits... (I'm not certain why, but a lot of folks tend to get the two systems quite tangled-up. The interplay of starting and reverse on those models may be why these are so often intertwined - something not present on the Int.)
Good points Stan.



I did however discover a flaw tonightwhileagain testingthis mod which I didn't notice before.



With this override switch installed, you can't turn off the Goldwing with the key once its started unless switching both the kill switch and override switch to off.



Once its running, whether theoverride switch is on or off,if the run switch is on it still keeps running when turning the key to accsy or off. If the Run switch is off, the ONLY wayto shut the Goldwing down is with the ovrride switch. Furthermore, when turning the key to accsy or off position, the dash and running lights turn off exept now the OD light lightsup and the engine stays running.



Any comment on this? Should I scrap the idea of the ECU bypass because of this condition?
 

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Kevin try removing the power lead and the wire going to the ECU from your add on switch and see if that changes things. It sounds like you have a feedback problem somewhere.
 
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