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Why in the World did they put the Vacuum Synchronizer ports for 1-2 right behind the Crash bars the way they did? It makes a really easy Phillips headed screw a PAIN to remove! GRR!

And When I do remove the Crash bars, Can I start the Motor without remounting the engine bolts? All i want to do is hook up the gages to the Carbs and set them to each other But The Crash Bars are in the way for the Rods to connect in the Vacuum ports.

Randy.
 

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I think that most crash bars on the GL1000 are aftermarket, and there are many different one's out there. Mine are not in the way of anything except changing the timing belts.

You might want to to ask, "Why would some aftermarket crash bar maker design them in a way that interferes with carb balancing?"
 

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Sears has some neat attachments for Phillips head screws that make angle work a lot easier. Some fit onto a ratchet drive. Wiha also makes pivoting screw drivers with #2 Phillips heads. How do I know this? I just got through removing the stock Phillips screw bolts in my 79 water pump...:X
 

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I still have to remove the bars since the Vacuum rod's that connect to the gages are straight and go right thru where the crash bars are placed. Now it started Raining when I go outside to work, Its been Nice out all day too.
 

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ran429 wrote:
Why in the World did they put the Vacuum for 1-2 right behind the Crash bars the way they did? It makes a really easy Phillips headed screw a PAIN to remove! GRR!

And When I do remove the Crash bars, Can I start the Motor without remounting the engine bolts? All i want to do is hook up the gages to the Carbs and set them to each other But The Crash Bars are in the way for the Rods to connect in the Vacuum ports.

Randy, I replaced the factory synchronizer ports screws on my 1200 with stainless steel allen head screws so the removal is not only easier but they don't strip the slots like the factory screws do.

On the vacuum hose access I made a short set from small black plastic vacuum line connectors and just threaded one end to 5mm X .8 or .9 (can't remember). Those plastic connectors are about 30 mm long so fit easily.



Twisty
 

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Randy is right. The problem is that the GL1100 had so many changes of engine bars that some get in the way of the manifold screws and some don't. When they do, they make what should be an easy job a right pain in the butt. :(
 
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