[flyinged320]

imported post

I am at a loss right now. My 1983 GL1100 started developing a strange metal to metal squeal that happens only intermittantly. I think it is coming from the front, but at times, it seems to coming from the back. My brake pads are good and the brakes work fine. The steering sometimes feels like it is trying to follow a grove in the road, which I never noticed before. I pulled the front wheel and found no play in the bearings at all. They felt quite smooth. My brother-in-law, who also rides, tells me to replace the bearings, anyway.

What do you guys think? I check the rear wheel while the bike was on jack stands and ran it in place, trying to recreate the problem, at no avail. I did notice a slight side to sidemovement in the real wheel, but assume that might begear slop in the final drive. I believe the squeal is coming from the rotorstouching the bracket that holds the brake calipers, as I have seen some slight wear near the edge of the bracketonthe left front. It appears to me the steering and the noise are related, but cannot determine the cause. I know it is not engine or tranny related, as I turned of the engine, held the clutch inand coasted down a slight encline and noticed the strange steering. Hope I described it well enough. Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks.

 

[flyinged320]

imported post

I have an update. Seems the noise is definitely coming from the back and the rear wheel seems to have some play, which leads me to believe it is a rear bearing going out. Sound logical?

 

[SpiderBob]

imported post

If you have a dial indicator you can tell by spinning the wheel and see what the run-out is. If not spin the wheel set an object up to the wheel (not the tire) that is stationary and see if the wheel makes contact with this object and then moves away from it while turning, if so, either your bearings are bad or your wheel is bent, either way it needs to be fixed. If you suspect the bearings, change them before more damage occurs.

Go here and scrow down till you see the dial indicator up against the wheel, you can do the same with any opject that dosen't move just to check it out.

The more I think about it,it's possible that it won't show a run-out off theground. If you can move the wheel side to side,either tighten it up or replace the bearings.



http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/73196.html

 

[flyinged320]

imported post

Thanks, SpiderBob...I will check it out further and plan on buying some new rear bearings. Is there somewhere on this forum that talks about how to remove the rear wheel. I think I can do it, but don't want to get hit with a Gotcha!

 

[k1w1t1m]

imported post

It sounds like what happened on my 1100. New wheel bearings and all is well.

 

[plainmech]

imported post

flyinged320 wrote:

Thanks, SpiderBob...I will check it out further and plan on buying some new rear bearings. Is there somewhere on this forum that talks about how to remove the rear wheel. I think I can do it, but don't want to get hit with a Gotcha!

gs mcclean has list of how tos in ref. and faq:action::waving:

 

[flyinged320]

imported post

Looks like I have some work to do. Thanks plainmech, I will check out gs mcclean's info.

 

[plainmech]

imported post

not so bad just did mine, also did rear shocks, lubed splines and changed final drive lube since i was in the area:cheeky1::action::waving:

 

[flyinged320]

imported post

I changed my final drive gear oil and it needed it. Got the info on how to remove the rear wheel, ordered bearings and dust cover, so now I will wait until parts arrive and then get it all done. Thanks for your help...this is truly a great forum.

 

[gido]

imported post

When my front end developed strange steering problems it turned out to be the cables were binding where they pass along the steering area.

And I've recently changed my rear tire. The mechanic showed me that the rear wheel side-to-side looseness was caused by the bearing turning in the wheel, which had to be sent out to a machine shop to have a sleeve inserted.

It's very easy for the parts of the rear wheel caliper to come out of alignment which can cause the noise you hear. The torque bar at the front of the caliper and the rotor cover at the rear have very limited room for movement before making contact with rubber or metal.

 

[flyinged320]

imported post

Thanks gido, that is good info.

 

[flyinged320]

imported post

Hello Plainmech...did you need special tools to remove the old bearings and install new ones, or did you have a motorcycle mechanic do it? The book calls for special tools, but I would guess you guys know a way to do it.

 

[flyinged320]

imported post

Hello K1W1T1M...did you do your own or have someone do it? The book calls for special tools to replace the bearings in the rear wheel. Can I get around that?



thanks.

 

[plainmech]

imported post

there is a tool made from a 3/4in bolt directions on ref and faq the tap in with bearing driver or suitable round object to cover bearing, or you can take to shop, don't forget spacer:action::waving:

 

[GSMacLean]

imported post

flyinged320 wrote:

Hello Plainmech...did you need special tools to remove the old bearings and install new ones, or did you have a motorcycle mechanic do it? The book calls for special tools, but I would guess you guys know a way to do it.

I did it without any special tools - other than a bolt that I cut a slot into, which I guess is a kind of a special tool.

 

[flyinged320]

imported post

Thanks, Plainmech...I will check it out. Just don't want to ruin a new bearing.

 

[flyinged320]

imported post

Thanks, GSMclean...that is what I needed to know. Appreciate your response.

 

[k1w1t1m]

imported post

There's better ways than mine....a hammer, punch, and cussing.

 

[flyinged320]

imported post

I am sure I will be doing abunch of that too!

 

[flyinged320]

imported post

Hello GSMacLean...I, first, want to thank you for such a great detailed illustrated document on how to remove the rear wheel and replace the bearings on my 1983 GL1100 Aspencade. However, I had purchased the bearings prior to getting your document, and although I feel confident I got the right bearings, the parts layout called for a dust seal. I don't remember seeing that called out in your document. Did I waste my money ($16.38) on this seal? I either missed it or there is not one used on a 1983 GL1100. I haven't got the merchantise yet, and might be able to return it, if I need to.



Once, again, your document is outstanding and makes it allot easier to do this job the right way. Thank you.