Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
84 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
imported post

I don't know where the stator plug is, but with all I have read I would like to check mine. It seems OK now, but I want to keep ahead of it. Is there a good pic or description of where to find it? 85 1200 Ltd
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
89 Posts
imported post

Hi, easy to find. Take off the top shelter. Look on the left hand side just forward of the battery. Three thick yellow wires connected with a white plug. May be burnt or melted!! Good luck

Les
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
64 Posts
imported post

It is a white plug just to theleft of your battery.It has three yellow wires going intoeach side. Inthe case of my1200the plug washeated brown& the wires were burned black. Hope this helps you find it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
84 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
imported post

OK, thanks. How do you test it? I have digital and analog meters, I am familiar with electronics, but I don't want to let the smoke out. Obviously it must be running. Can you probe it with the red lead and what to do with the black lead? It has a volt display on the dash and seems to be pretty good while going down the road.

THANKS A BUNCH!!

PO says it was checked recently at a Honda Dealer and they said it was in very good condition, just trying to confirm.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,848 Posts
imported post

Mostly it is just a visual examination. Take it apart and check inside and outside for any evidence of corrosion or over heating. If there is no damage clean it with some contact cleaner give it a light coating of dielectric grease and put it back together and be happy.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
503 Posts
imported post

if plug that has 3 yellow wires looks brown or burnt.cut plug out and soder wires together you may half to use small jumpers but make sure you get a good soder joint.also i used srink tubes on all 3 wires. not too good at spelling but this might help a little.:waving::waving:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
298 Posts
imported post

johnnymac wrote:
OK, thanks. How do you test it? I have digital and analog meters, I am familiar with electronics, but I don't want to let the smoke out. Obviously it must be running. Can you probe it with the red lead and what to do with the black lead? It has a volt display on the dash and seems to be pretty good while going down the road.

THANKS A BUNCH!!

PO says it was checked recently at a Honda Dealer and they said it was in very good condition, just trying to confirm.
Here are some instructions (not mine)...


GL1200 Stator Testing

By Neil










Get a digital voltmeter that measures A/C and DC as well as resistance

Pull battery cover (left side) off and put bike on centre stand



Have battery load tested at battery shop if OK charge overnight measure DC volts straight across battery after charge should be about 13.5-13.9 VDC Reinstall battery.

On the left side of the battery you will see three yellow wires either going to a plug or wired straight thru by previous owner


Disconnect the plug OR cut the three yellow wires one at a time VERY important ONE at a time mark wiresA; B: C; You have to disconnect to get true readings. If left connected a lot of other problems could mislead you. Clean wires leading to stator by about ½ inch. You will be soldering later



Start The bike



This will not hurt the bike in anyway. It will run on the battery

Put meter on A/C scale across any combination A-B;B-C;A-C rev bike to 3000 RPM. You should see 45 to 60 volts A/Cacross any of above combination

If OK shut bike offmeasure on resistance scale (50K is good) from each of three wires to ground It should be infinite EG open must not have any shorts to ground

Measure from A-B; B:-C; A:-C; measurement should be in the vicinity of 1.2 ohms on any of the legs

If all measurements are ok (volts and resistance)your stator is good



Bad News Scenarios



1 A/C volts under 40 V A/C (with wires disconnected and at 3000 RPM)

2 Any leg A: B: or C: shorted to ground (Low or no resistance to ground)

3 Any combination A:-B: B:-C: A:-C: open (infinite resistance)



If stator is bad you may consider the alternator alternative See separate post on that subject

Or it entails pulling engine to replace stator



Ifyou havethe plug cut it out and solder each of the three yellow wires straight thru cover with heat shrink. Follow wiring all the way down to where it enters engine(under sleeve) just to make sure there are no other hidden splices (throw the plug at the neighbour’s cat or some thing it’s a piece of crap)



While you are in the area it is recommended that you change the fuseable link (30 amp main fuse) to a heavy-duty fuse holder with bayonet style fuses. These old fuses have a tendency to corrode and fail at the worst times leaving you with a dead bike



Start bike with meter still attached to battery voltage will go down while cranking over but should come back up to 13 VDC plus when you rev bike turn on Hi Beams volt should drop slightly but still be over 13 VDC if not e.g. 11 to 11.5 dc replace regulator 10 min job (lots on ebay)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,929 Posts
imported post

johnnymac wrote:
I don't know where the stator plug is, but with all I have read I would like to check mine. It seems OK now, but I want to keep ahead of it. Is there a good pic or description of where to find it? 85 1200 Ltd
I posted pictures of my (melted) plug along with a picture from the service manual pointing out where it is.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top