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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Everyone, New here and just bought a 84 1200 standard with 48k miles.
It has been sitting for a year with petcock on and when I tried to start it (Jumping from my Mazda Protege with engine off) , it sounded like it was hydro locked. Pulled the plugs, cranked it and it turned over but really slow, no gas in the cylinders which was a big surprise. By the way this was all done in the sellers carport about an hours drive from me and I have not yet got it home. After putting new plugs back in it the starter was not able to turn the motor over. I tried a few wire connections here and there and maybe hit the start button a total of 6 or 7 times. Without a manual, I packed up my tools then found my car battery was drained and needed a jump. I figured the hour drive at 65mph would charge it back up, it didn't. My car never showed signs of a weak battery. Could those few little attempts at jumping ruin a car battery? It is about 6 years old. My next idea before renting a trailer would be to jump it with my battery charger on crank mode 75 amps. Bad Idea? Would hate to put a new battery in before I get this figured out. The original owner passed away and his daughter who sold it to me said it was started about a year ago and ran fine. The bike is very clean and looks to be well taken care of. Sorry for the long winded story just want to give all the info. Perhaps all it needs is a fresh battery, any thoughts? Thanks
 

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if it has been sitting for a year the battery may be gone already, about ur car, there is probably a short on the bike or connected it inverted.
 

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You can take your car battery to AutoZone or most parts stores and they will check it. I would bet it was just coincidence that your car battery, after 6 years, went bad the same time you were trying to jump the bike. I see 2 new batteries in your future. One for the bike and one for the car. I can't think of a thing on the bike that would take out your battery. Even if it were a dead short your jumper cables would have smoked and sparked like you were arc welding with it. Plus you said a 65 mile drive home didn't re-charge the car battery. If you charging circuit on the car is working you just got your money's worth out of that 6 year old battery. Consider yourself lucky.

As for using the 75 amp setting on your charger? With a good battery to act as a voltage stabilizer you probably won't hurt the bike. But with a bad battery? I would take the bike battery to a local parts store to see if they can check it. I'm guessing it too is a lead acid battery and won't take a charge.

"My car never showed signs of a weak battery. Could those few little attempts at jumping ruin a car battery?"
That is the classic car battery failure mode. Go to the grocery store it started fine. Dead battery when you have trunk full of groceries. Yes that is the most common way a car battery fails.
 

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Welcome to the forum Flounder
Do not try to start off a charger.
Did you bring the battery home to charge it overnight?
Did you try to start it off the car running or off? Hopefully motor of the car not running.

You need to do some testing first. First make sure it turns over freely hy hand. The stator bolt on left rear of the motor, has a 17mm nut cap covering the 12mm bolt. Use a socket and 3" extension to turn it righty tighty. Never turn it left. With plugs removed it should turn freely several full rotations. If it does, the starter may need cleaning or the solenoid may be bad.
Let us know what you find.
Take a trailer. The carbs may need cleaning as well as gas drained, clean and inspection of the gas tank and new gas filter, Napa #3011, @$5.
 

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If the bike battery is dead I doubt your 75amp charger will help as it's just there to assist a marginal battery not a dead one.
 

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First off don't plan to ride the bike home even if you can get it to run. It will need lots of work before it will become roadworthy. It will need a new battery for sure and a comleat going over of electrical and mechanical systems. These bikes are not like cars where you can leave them sit a yr or 2 and jump in and drive away.
Wilf
 

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These bikes are not like cars where you can leave them sit a yr or 2 and jump in and drive away.
I agree with that one! As far as the car battery... 6 years?!?!?! Dude, new battery time :shock:. I know out here in the pits of he!! conditions are a little extreme, but two years out here is the average life of a battery. I'd say after 6 years you got your life out of it.

As far as the charger, like was already said, DON'T DO IT!!!:D I can't speak for the wing, but I tried that on another bike and it cooked it. I found it works just on regular charging mode, but it's still probably not the best idea, but either way, stay away from that start mode.
 

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Just for the record I've used a similar charger to get my Wing going at -5 Celsius with no ill effects but the battery was good just cold.

If you charge the bike battery for an hour or so it may work if the battery is not fubared and drawing to much of that 75amps.
 

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It's tricky 'jumping' a 1200 with dead battery, specially if it's not a current runner. I don't think the clamp connections are good enough. All you get are really hot jumper cables. You're probably gonna a need a good full charged battery 'bolted' in the wing before you can come to any solid conclusions.

When I evaluate 1200's that have been sitting around a long time there's a few things I look for. I usually check the stator...it's a big expense to fix that. I look for a rusty fuel tank...if it is, that's really a 'buzzkill' for me. Have a quick look at the solenoid connections for melting, heat damage. I drain the carbs and note what comes out...nasty smelling, greenish, blackish stuff means you're gonna be doing carb work. If all that checks out, turn the drain plugs in, the fuel back on and try to run it...sometimes you luck out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Guys for all the feedback, I really appreciate it. I will get a trailer tomorrow. I have a hunch it will run O.K. as the tank looks clean but not having any service records I don't trust the timing belts which are probably 28 years old. Now I have a riddle for you.
How many guys does it take to push a Goldwing onto a trailer?
I'm hoping Uhaul has a really low one. As for today I will be getting the Mazda back up and running. I will keep you posted on the outcome of the GL. Cheers and Happy Sunday to you all.
 

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answer to riddle- three,one on either side of handlebars to push and steady it and the big guy in rear to push

least that's what i'd prefer
 

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answer to riddle- three,one on either side of handlebars to push and steady it and the big guy in rear to push
His answer to the riddle is correct as that is exactly what I did for both of my wings... but if it's got flat tires you may want 4... even with 4 on the one with the flat, I needed a nap when we were done :ROFL:
 

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How many guys does it take to push a Goldwing onto a trailer?
I'm hoping Uhaul has a really low one. As for today I will be getting the Mazda back up and running.
As many as you can get!
 

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I loaded my gl1000 onto a borrowed trailer with 3 people. ......my 1100 also took 3 peaple to load into a 1/2 ton. My 1500 i loaded onto my own trailer by myself. So I guess the correct # is how ever many you have.
Two is all you realy need but a third helps some. Just have a plan and follow it.
Wilf
 

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I loaded my gl1000 onto a borrowed trailer with 3 people. ......my 1100 also took 3 peaple to load into a 1/2 ton. My 1500 i loaded onto my own trailer by myself. So I guess the correct # is how ever many you have.
Two is all you realy need but a third helps some. Just have a plan and follow it.
Wilf
It also depends on what you use for a ramp. If narrow, more is better. A wide ramp is safer. I made a ramp with 2/10' 2x12s side x side and a layer of 3/4" plywood screwed to them to tie them together and it also beefs it up. Also used some cement blocks under the ramp at half way point. Park the trailer/pickup so its at a low point and level as possible so ramp is almost level or slightly downhill if possible helps too. Some will say overkill, but after doing dumb in younger years you learn at the the school of hard knocks. Used a single 2x6 for a 750 load into a p/u with a flat, one big Guy and me. Wasn't pretty! :X. Learn from others mistakes. Make sure you can strap it down correctly too! You don't want it falling over or out of the trailer as you are going down the road and CHP won't be real friendly over that.
Have seen a few utubes of dumb loadings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Got the GL home today, put a new battery in and it fired right up. Motor sounded real quiet and smooth but could not give it throttle so the carbs need to be pulled. My next thing to buy is a service manual. Any preferences
Clymer or Hayes, ultimately a factory Honda manual would be nice but maybe down the road a bit. Thanks again.
 

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My next thing to buy is a service manual. Any preferences
Clymer or Hayes, ultimately a factory Honda manual would be nice but maybe down the road a bit. Thanks again.
If you check FleaBay you'll find the Honda manuals are going for not much more than others, sometimes less.
 

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You can purchase and download legal manuals for most anything from Tradebit.com for very reasonable prices. Most of them in the $10.00 range, browse through their list before making a single choice.
From their Web page
If you have problems with the file you purchased, please contact the seller directly

You have different ways to get in touch with us:

Please remember, we are a file hosting platform and we do not have specific information regarding the products that are sold here. Please always contact the seller directly, if you have questions about a product.
It looks like file sharing for money but no way to verify that the file you paid for is not pirated.:eek:
 

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I will retract the 'legal' phrase then.
Just figured it has been 'on the web' for a very long time and is still operational.

I bought a OEM digital manual for my 1998 Dodge CTD truck for ten bucks. I just figured they pay royalties
 
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