Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
imported post

I used the write-up that was done on the GL1000

Excellent BTW... My Question is that I rotated the

engine a few times counter clock-wise with the loose

Belt Tensioner loose and I do noticed depending on what

revolution that one or the other belt feels loose

but not around by the tensioner. this is normal?



Anyways, removing the radiator was not bad at all , nice room to work that way



Also, they were original belts from Honda.(49K) after I removed

them I did notice dry cracked areas. So I did a good thing

I guess :action:If all is good for you guys , then I guess I torque them at

19 foot libs.

Jeff
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
26,992 Posts
imported post

You need to rotate the engine clockwise so the tension is pulled on the straight side of the belts. there will be places where the belts are tight on the top then on the bottom depending on cam position. Turn it to where there is tension on the straight side then reset the tensioners.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
imported post

Dave.. Turn until both straight side are tight
on top then how do you (re-set)? the tensioners?

and the rotating clockwise is the way the belts are
turning or ON the Nut I have been using to turn the
engine?
Sorry for all the Questions. but want to make sure..
THANKS!
Jeff
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
26,992 Posts
imported post

The engine turns clockwise, unless my memory is scrambled, the pull is on the straight side, not the tensioner side. To reset them just loosen the bolts and retighten, letting the spring do the tensioning.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,276 Posts
imported post

Now I've got a question. If you let the springs do the tensioning, chances are the springs are 20+ years old. I would trust new springs to a point, but worry about the old springs losing some of their effectiveness.

I guess I would let the springs do the initial tensioning, but double check after tightening the tensioners, to make sure I have the required slack. IMHO

Probably worth buying new springs.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
imported post

I thought about that as well Mike, they do not seem
to be Strong enough , but the belts are tight the
part of the belt that goes around the tensioners.

kinda strange when rotating the engine how each time it
all changes. I still have not tighten the bolts yet.
thanks for your replies Dave!

Jeff
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,276 Posts
imported post

Cougar wrote:
I thought about that as well Mike, they do not seem
to be Strong enough , but the belts are tight the
part of the belt that goes around the tensioners.

kinda strange when rotating the engine how each time it
all changes. I still have not tighten the bolts yet.
thanks for your replies Dave!

Jeff
That's why I have seen it recommended that when you are ready to set the tension, you should turn the crank 1/4 clockwise, then 1/4 turn counterclockwise, to set the tension. I would do that, then recheck.

Then of course rotating the engine by hand, at least 2 turns, prior to starting.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
26,992 Posts
imported post

You should not rotate the engine with the tensioners loose, the belts could jump time.
Mike is right about the springs, they could be weak. I tend to recheck by feel when the cams are holding tension on the tensioner side, about 1/4"to 3/8" slack on the straight side.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,276 Posts
imported post

DaveO430 wrote:
You should not rotate the engine with the tensioners loose, the belts could jump time.
You are right. I failed to add that. Good catch.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
imported post

well again you folks are great. I will stop by
and see if I can get new springs tomorrow after
work. at my local Honda dealer.
Thanks for the info guys!
Jeff
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
imported post

Ordered the (2) springs today. should be in tomorrow..
NOW since I am this far, and still waiting on carb parts
I might as well to the VALVE ADJUSTMENTS! Is there a good
HOW in this place? or just go by the Manual? IS this a fairly easy job with everything removed? even the Rad is
off for the time being. lots of room now :)
Jeff
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
imported post

http://www.carbkitscapital.com/carb_kit_list_model.php?make=Honda&model=GL1100

this is what I Posted in the other gentleman
trying to remove his carbs.. not sure if I did
the right thing in getting aftermarket parts
for the carb or not. I have so many things I am doing
on the bike right now.. even get the headlight and blinkers in today and got ALL the wiring figured out to bring it back to stock. I am very happy with the blinkers and headlight. :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,581 Posts
imported post

Cougar wrote:
Ordered the (2) springs today. should be in tomorrow..
NOW since I am this far, and still waiting on carb parts
I might as well to the VALVE ADJUSTMENTS! Is there a good
HOW in this place? or just go by the Manual? IS this a fairly easy job with everything removed? even the Rad is
off for the time being. lots of room now :)
Jeff
if i remember right clymers manual is wrong. set, .004 intake and .005 exhaust.

clymers has you setting them the same and that is incorrect



mark:waving:
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top