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I hope someone can help ! :(was driving along and suddenly lost the dashboard (visually) came to indicate left no repeater on dash tried the horn no sound but engine still running also when switched off and restarted engines fine but still no output on dash or lights or even volt meter any clues or should i sell her ????

this is my dream machine !! :(but were do i start ?



regards mike !

gl1200 aspencade 1984 usa import .
 

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The first thing I'd check is the fuses. Then, since they all went at once and the engine still runs, maybe a connector came loose under the instruments.
 

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I have heard the 1200 ignition switch is prone to failure. Not sure how you can test it short of removing it andohming it out. As axlwik said, check the fuses and then look into the key switch if the fuses are OK.

I'm sure someone with experience with the 1200 ignitions will jump in with some advice!

Bob :11grey:
 

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I have seen this happen and fixed it twice by replacing the ignition switch. But could also be the plug on the back or the Digital dash.
 

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Take a good look at the 30A fuse links.
 

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Exavid, would his engine still run with a blown 30A fuse? I know whenthe fuse on my 1100 went it was like someone reached over and turned the key off. Lost all lights, gauges and the engine. Then the two pieces of the fuse would vibrate back close enough to make contact (I was doing about 40mph when it broke) and everything would fire back up then quit again etc. The fuse broke into two pieces from corrosion and old age. It didn't actually blow.

I have since replaced the 30amp fuse with a sealed automotive bladetype. No problems since.

Bob :11grey:
 

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Mike, do the other lights works (headlight etc)?. It does sound like the ignition switch (if the fuses check out okay), I've heard of plenty of these going down.
 

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AZWinger wrote:
Exavid, would his engine still run with a blown 30A fuse? I know whenthe fuse on my 1100 went it was like someone reached over and turned the key off. Lost all lights, gauges and the engine. Then the two pieces of the fuse would vibrate back close enough to make contact (I was doing about 40mph when it broke) and everything would fire back up then quit again etc. The fuse broke into two pieces from corrosion and old age. It didn't actually blow.

I have since replaced the 30amp fuse with a sealed automotive bladetype. No problems since.

Bob :11grey:
Bob, I had an experience much the same as yours. The link broke from corrosion. Off and on kinda deal for a couple times until I found it. For some reason I was thinking there were two 30A fuses on the thing. I'm probably thinking of my SEI (if I'm thinking at all)which had a different wiring setup. I sure wish I'd kept my drawings and manuals for the 1200 when I sold the bike. I don't think the guy who bought it will ever use them. The ignition switch does sound like a good contender.
 

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There are three main circuits to the ignition switch... Start, run & accessory... The dash circuit is completed thru the accessory side of the ignition switch.

Excellent suggestions above for inspecting the ignition switch then the main supply harness behind the instrument cluster.. :jumper:

This is from someone who just fixed his GL1200 radio and doesn't know how he did it.:baffled:

:12beige:
 

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Hello all...I was just getting ready to post a question about this very thing. Took a ride to the lake this AM. Glanced at my volt meter and it was showing about 12v and bouncing. Had been riding about 40 miles when noticed this. My tach was going on and off. My taillight light on dash was lit up. I could put my front brake on just enough to make the brake light come on and volt meter would jump up to 14volts (like the extra load made it work OK). Decided to head home. On the way back for a while all was good...14+ volts on the meter, tach OK, all fine. Then back to no tach etc. It went through this cycle 4-5 times on the 40 mile ride back. Made it home OK. Went to check and nothing at all when key on. Started checking with meter...battery 13 volts...30 amp main LOOKED good. Checked across the fuse with meter and no voltage. Looked real close and 30 amp had a very small crack...could barely see it. Didn't look burned. Replaced with spare and all good as far as start, run, gauges etc. I'm thinking that the 30 amp was expanding and contracting enough to cause my crazy readings and finally just contracted enough when I got home to finally break the circuit. I think that I'll just put a 30 amp inline fuse on and go that route...Had a CB900 that I did that to and it worked good. The bike is a 1984 Aspencade that I have had about a month. Have been looking at this forum and getting some good ideas. I have checked and the
3 stator wires to the left of the battery have already been soldered and taped. I packed the plug on the starter relay with di-electric grease yesterday. Also put the
volt meter on just to find problems like this before they caused more problems.
Any ideas on this theory of main fuse making and breaking? Thanks...shydog
 

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shydog, welcome to the forum! :waving:

That is exactly what my 83 Aspencade did except my engine was cutting off and on as well. Mine finally quit completely before I got far this way, 3-4 miles. I ended upfixing it on the side of the road by cutting off a piece of wire from a circuit I wasn't using (couldn't find anything along the road) andwired it in where the fuse went. I had only had mine for about a month when it went also! Fortunately, I spotted the fuse while checking my new ride out and remembered where it was.Having a background in electronics (radar technician) I knew where to start looking. It was about 115 degrees out that day and I didn't want to spend any more time on the side of the road than I had too!

Since then I have replaced the fuse with an automotive in-line 30Amp blade type. Haven't had any problems since.

Good job shydog! :clapper:

Bob :11grey:
 

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Since the CB900 had a similar starter relay and 30 amp main, I was somewhat
familiar with the set-up. The 30 amp went out on the 900 one evening and I didn't have a spare. Got a piece of wire from a guy working in his shop next to where
the bike stopped and bridged across like you did. Made it home and put an inline glass fuse setup on it. I just got back from auto zone with a blade type inline fuse setup. Getting ready to go put it on. The engine on the Aspencade was starting to cut in and out the closer I got to home today...seemed more so from a stop.
Have a good one Bob...shydog
 

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mine has an automotive blade type 30amp fuse by the soleniod which looks fine but will swap over tomorrow and try and to an earlier question all lights are out including the headlamp only the saddlebag rail lights and foggies work which are wired through the live on the fuse box !!!!



i have just missed an 1984 ignition switch for sale on ebay tonight i was busy bricklaying in the garden when the time was up !!



any body out there got one ?? it must be a 1984 though as other years don't fit wiring !!! :)

mike ! ps: thanks for all your responses only had wing 18 months still learning !! but ENJOYING !
 
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