imported post
Hello all...I was just getting ready to post a question about this very thing. Took a ride to the lake this AM. Glanced at my volt meter and it was showing about 12v and bouncing. Had been riding about 40 miles when noticed this. My tach was going on and off. My taillight light on dash was lit up. I could put my front brake on just enough to make the brake light come on and volt meter would jump up to 14volts (like the extra load made it work OK). Decided to head home. On the way back for a while all was good...14+ volts on the meter, tach OK, all fine. Then back to no tach etc. It went through this cycle 4-5 times on the 40 mile ride back. Made it home OK. Went to check and nothing at all when key on. Started checking with meter...battery 13 volts...30 amp main LOOKED good. Checked across the fuse with meter and no voltage. Looked real close and 30 amp had a very small crack...could barely see it. Didn't look burned. Replaced with spare and all good as far as start, run, gauges etc. I'm thinking that the 30 amp was expanding and contracting enough to cause my crazy readings and finally just contracted enough when I got home to finally break the circuit. I think that I'll just put a 30 amp inline fuse on and go that route...Had a CB900 that I did that to and it worked good. The bike is a 1984 Aspencade that I have had about a month. Have been looking at this forum and getting some good ideas. I have checked and the
3 stator wires to the left of the battery have already been soldered and taped. I packed the plug on the starter relay with di-electric grease yesterday. Also put the
volt meter on just to find problems like this before they caused more problems.
Any ideas on this theory of main fuse making and breaking? Thanks...shydog