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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All:

I just picked up another Goldwing, this one is an '86 Aspencade with 34k. No service history on it. The only thing I've done to it is replace the fuel filter and dump in some Sea Foam. I'm hoping some of you experts can help me get it dialed in, or at least give me an idea with where to start looking to fix the following problems:

1) The main problem is that it lacks power and seems to run rough at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle, especially while under load such as when going up hills and accelerating hard. It starts right up at the hit of a button, even when cold, idles fine, but basically there's a significant vibration that kicks in when you open it up; it just seems to be low on power with the vibration that comes with more throttle. I pulled the plugs, and the two on the left (NGK brand) were dry and white, and the two on the right (Autolite brand...) were black and wet. Also, when pulling off the throttle at low speeds, it backfires massively on occasion which sounds like a gunshot.

2) not a big deal, but the tachometer only works when I start the bike, then it quits after I ride for a few minutes. The redline light on the tach is always on as well.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance and Happy Holidays!
 

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1. Check to see if all 4 cylinders are hitting. On idle, lightly touch the headers to see if they're warming up or not. And change the plugs while you're at it.
The backfire and no power that you describe sounds like the plug wires might not be on the right cylinders. Or it could be clogged main jets if the bike hadn't been running for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
1. Check to see if all 4 cylinders are hitting. On idle, lightly touch the headers to see if they're warming up or not. And change the plugs while you're at it.
The backfire and no power that you describe sounds like the plug wires might not be on the right cylinders. Or it could be clogged main jets if the bike hadn't been running for a while.
Great advice IraqiRam, thanks and will do. To check if the plug wires are on the right plugs, could I just switch them or might this damage something? I'd guess I could pull that tank cover and trace the wires from the coils but...
 

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You probably don't want to hear this but I will take the risk of being unpopular with you and say it.

I fought a poor running (had sat long before I bought it) wing for a while. I was going to loan it to a friend for a ride and knew i had to get it to 100% before I could do that in clear conscience. I finally pulled the carbs and re-did them with the help of Randaak's complete kit with book.

I found on disassembly that one of the carbs had a jet that had unscrewed and was sitting in the bottom of the bowl. No amount of SeaFoam would ever have fixed that.

A bit of work? Yes. Worth every moment? Yes.
 

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In addition to the expert advice already given, I would add the following:

1. Check the plug wires on the cylinders where the plugs are wet.

2. Dump the old gas and fill with fresh fuel.

3. Check carbs for sticking float and clogged jets.

This has nothing to do with the issues you are having, but I would highly recommend changing the timing belts before you continue troubleshooting the current issue.
 

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You will probably hear a lot of people tell you use Seafoam. It works good, but if you just got the bike and don't know the history, you should at least drain all the old gas out and you can try Seafoam for a while, But your best bet to get it running right would be as Rusty has said you won't want to hear it. REBUILD the CARBS with RANDAAKS complete kit. There is a lot of info on carbs on this site and a lot of info on Seafoam. If you REBUILD the CARBS you will be good to go and instead of fighting the rough running you can be riding a Great Running 1200. If you are not comfortable REBUILDING CARBS yourself. Have them REBUILT proffessionally. Either way it will be your best bet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks to everyone for all the great replies, just wanted to post a follow up.

I checked the plug wires which were routed fine, then checked to see if the two wet cylinders were firing per IraqiRam's suggestion by feeling the exhaust pipes... stone cold on both cylinders.

So I pulled all the plugs (the PO installed Autolites on that side), and put in a new set of 4 NGK's while praying it wasn't the carbs (done that job already on my other GL1200, once is plenty for me). It fired right up an ran perfectly.

Next is the timing belts, djoyner!

Thanks again for all the replies, much appreciated.
 

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I automatically remove and clean the carbs whenever I buy a used bike, even if it is running good. I have yet to find any that were not filthy inside. Used to be you could let gas sit for a while and not have a problem. That is no longer the case with ethanol gas.
 

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1. Check to see if all 4 cylinders are hitting. On idle, lightly touch the headers to see if they're warming up or not. And change the plugs while you're at it.
The backfire and no power that you describe sounds like the plug wires might not be on the right cylinders. Or it could be clogged main jets if the bike hadn't been running for a while.
"lightly touch the headers" put a bit of spit on your finger 1st. If the header is hot the spit will actually flash boil (you can feel it) and you'll know the header is hot without risking a burn.
 

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Change EVERY fluid. Watch those front forks! They can be dangerous to remove. See other posts on the topic. Also check the electrical connections at the dogbone fuse at the battery. Replace with auto type fuse. Look at the three yellow wire connectors at the stator. Cut out the connectors, hardwire them. There are other posts on this as well.
 

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check the connectors at the neck on the right hand side use good contact cleaner to clean them all then replace the dielectric grease and reconnect then do the same at the left hand side and the connectors to the fuse box.
also check all your lights. change your oil run some cleaner through it for 20 min. this stuff is nasy but it works great drain one quart of oil then poor this stuff in let it idle for 10-20 min then drain all the oil. it cleans all the crud out real well.

the carbs you can clean with pinesol by soaking over night then blowing dry works great for the heads too.
 

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Timing Belts!!!!

Change fluids.... Oil, brake, clutch, antifreeze.

Check, clean, replace filters for carbs, cruise control and air pump.

Did I mention Timing Belts??!

Check the Date code on the tires, don't go by how they look, older tires are dry and could fail, just like the Timing Belts...... Did I mention Timing Belts yet ???.

Regardless of tire condition or date code, take a couple of hours and change out the valve stems.......

Lastly..... I would Change out the TIMING BELTS before I did anything......
 

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Glad to hear you got it running good just by changing the plugs. The other suggestions are great - follow them - and you will have a great running bike for many years to come.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Huge thanks to everyone, now I've got a list of to do items. I'm doing the fork seals right now, then on to the timing belts!
 

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this is one that caught me out just recently, and may be worth a check. mine is also an 86. they have an emission control system, then involves a hose leading up from the cranckcase, to a canister under the false tank. From the canister, there is hose leading into the air breather, and another leading down to a small holding tank on the right hand side of the bike.

Check the hoses and canister for blockages, empty the holding tank regularly.the hoses on mine where completely blocked, and difference in performance, once cleared, has been quite amazing.

good luck
 

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All sounds about right. I just got an '84 Aspy and I am also doing all that. I need to get fork seals and brake pads and then I think I will be good.
 

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All 4 diaphrams in all 4 carbs are probably bad. I had a 1984 and it was a real pain getting those carbs working and expensive, then the rest of the bike followed suit and it was just too unreliable. My dad bought it new and it was sure good in it's day though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·

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Definitely do the timing belts, they can save your engine. There are at least 2 emissions control contraptions on a 1200. One is all that plumbing for the crankcase breather. All my hoses were rotted, and the little plastic bottle was cracked. I ripped it all off, connected a piece of heater hose of the right size to the crankcase vent fitting on the top of the engine, ran it across to the right side of the engine, and down under the bike. It works like a road draft tube, like old cars used to have.

Then there is the air injection system, that injects air directly into each exhaust port. Since I had my fuel injection system completely off and completely apart, I did away with that as well, and capped off the fittings.

After you get it running good and get all the engine maintenance done, then is the time to tear the rear end and final drive apart, inspect it, clean everything, and lube all the splines with moly paste.
 

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One other thing to check/fix is the stator connector (behind the left side battery cover). This is a source of many problems on the 1200, I recommend removing the connector and soldering the connection. You can search the site for the procedure on how to do the repair. Just my .02
 
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