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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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Back in the days when I was young I was in the habit when tuning a car of setting the mixture by setting the revs to the maximum the mixture screw would allow and was wondering if this would transfer to a wing IE just setting each mixture until the revs are at maximum (using a decent tacho)
I have got a copy of the manual for the correct procedure but that relies on the start point being correct and I am not sure I can guarantee that they start at the same place, so was wondering if I just set them all to maximum efficiency would that work

discuss :?
 

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This is how I do and you are right, the key word is "a decent tach". The one on the bike is not accurate enough. It usually works out for me to use the setting in the book and leave it alone but I might just be lucky.
 

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rich-drop (or lean-drop) is still fairly valid for mixture settings -- it's still referenced in the 1500 manual.

Set RPM to spec, then adjust mixture to max rpm, reset idle, then richen the idle screw until there's a 50 rpm (or other spec) drop ... the finish with setting the idle RPM, balance the carbs and resetting idle speed.

Fairly "standard" some set by leaning the mix for the specified RPM drop -- and or just leaving the mix at max RPM.

Rich-drops at about 20 to 50 rpm tend to offer a smoother idle for non-feedback systems like the 1500 and earlier cycles...

This gets to be a PITA when you're working in multi-cab sets -- The process would be more of a peak the rpm, then set the idles back in 1/8-turn increments until you see the 25RPM drop or something like that.

I work mine with CO/HC analyzers so I get a good look at what's what, but not everyone has the option. ven then, on a multi-carb, I'll peak before starting -- it's too easy to 'get lost' walking around 4 or more carbs (2's OK; guess I'm too old for 4 or more :) )
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
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Thanks for that folks
I am going to give it a go over the weekend and see if I can get rid of the slight vibration from the engine
 

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I've always tuned by ear but I know that isn't the correct way, but I've always had good luck with it. Now tuning several different carbs at once, I haven't tried that. Have you tried synching the carbs too?

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
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84GrayWing wrote:
I've always tuned by ear but I know that isn't the correct way, but I've always had good luck with it. Now tuning several different carbs at once, I haven't tried that. Have you tried synching the carbs too?

Jeff
yes I did sync the carbs but since then I have replaced the coil wires and plug caps and have been waiting for an adjustment tool for the mixtures to be brought back from the states before I checked them again after setting the mix
 

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Dont just lean out your carbs & leave them at that setting. a condition that is too lean will create alot of heat which could burn a piston or a valve. This is why you adjust to lean until you reach the highest rpm & back it off just a little to richen it back up.
 

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Make sure you have the bike at warm up speed, or ride it for 10 minutes before you do the sync.
Nigtrider1
 

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I guess you all talk about mixture adjustment which I believe only work for idle speed. That means it doesn't matter when you ride. It only important when you sit at traffic light.
Am I right?
 

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newbiker wrote:
I guess you all talk about mixture adjustment which I believe only work for idle speed. That means it doesn't matter when you ride. It only important when you sit at traffic light. Am I right?
Yes, partially. But...there is a thing with carburetors called "circuit transition", which is that point, or range, where the carbs leave the idle circuit, and enter the mid-range zone (this assumes normal, smooth throttle operation...not slow, but not racing either). If the idle screws are set incorrectly, one may experience "blubbering", or "bogging down", or perhaps some other strange, annoying behavior. :waving:
 

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Yep, the 50rpm drop setting to the rich side is for driveability. It prevents a too lean mixture in the idle from causing a stumble when opening the throttle and switching jets. Also it helps compensate for ambient temperature changes. Leaving the setting at max rpms will work most of the time but it's more likely to hesitate or hiccup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
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Thanks for that, all comments taken on board, I just need to get the new tachometer to give a stable reading ( I think it may just be picking up 'crosstalk' from the other leads).
 
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