Just this side of smashing it with a hammer!

1334 Views 20 Replies 17 Participants Last post by Peterbylt, Jun 11, 2009

deathtrap

Discussion Starter · Jun 10, 2009

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Ok, so every time I think I've got my GL1000 just about wrapped up, yet another problem crops up. Currently, I get no crank at all with the start button, regardless of battery level, and that includes having a charger on it set to boost. At this point, when I hit the button the headlight will go out, but nothing else occurs. If I run 12v across the relay, it will spin the starter, however, it will not click. Does that mean that the relay is shot? And if so, I've heard people mention lawn mower relays as replacements, do you have suggestions on a brand or part number? I'm just about ready to dispose of this thing, and that may include a cliff, or a really big truck.

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Wichita Scorpion

· #2 · Jun 10, 2009

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Don't give up on it. Someone here can help you fix it. I am not all that much up on GL 1000.
What year is your GL 1000?
On my GL 1000 SchematicsI show a Starter Disconnect Switch. Guessing you have checked that.
I think the headlight should cut off when you press the starter switch button, I know later Goldwings do.
To hear the Starter Relay click, you would have to connect 12 volts on one pin and ground on the other pin for the relay coil. If you are connecting 12 volts across the large cable connections, the relay won't click.
Someone with a lot more experience on GL 1000 should be along soon.

AZgl1800

· #3 · Jun 10, 2009

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In the Menu on any main forum page, click on Post Index.

We have a few articles there under the "Starter" section. See if one of those is helpful.

Later today, someone will come along that knows what you want to hear.

frankenpak

· #4 · Jun 10, 2009

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I had a simular problem, it was the relay. But go through a check list such as loose wires, connection, corosion....hang on you will get more info than you need right on this site.

frankenpak

· #5 · Jun 10, 2009

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I had a simular problem, it was the relay. But go through a check list such as loose wires, connection, corosion....hang on you will get more info than you need right on this site.

Mohawk

· #6 · Jun 10, 2009

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Grin, Your Header title Cracked me up.

Then I seen your handle and thought to myself.
"Hmmm, I don't doubt him for a minute."

Hey, We have ALL been there at times.

So frustrated we are just this side of tears.

But the best advice I ever got from an old timer was to just walk away and come back later.

There have been plenty of time where the solution came to me in my sleep and I couldn't wait to sneak out to the garage and try it.

Good luck on the solution.

Mohawk

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96aspencade

· #7 · Jun 10, 2009

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Not real sure of the 1100 but what about a clutch switch malfunction :waving

h ya, WELCOME :waving::waving::waving:

knot750

· #8 · Jun 10, 2009

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Like most motorcycles it should have a starter solenoid located normally near the battery. The solenoid will have a connection coming from the battery and a connection which goes to the starter; using a pair of plier or simular metal object, jumper the battery and starter side of the solenoid with the plier(it will spark but will not hurt you)and the engine should rotate. If it does rotate then the starter works and the problem is outside of the starter. On the solenoid should be a small wire along with the other2 large wire that were just jumped;disconnect the connector to the small wire and then place a dc voltmeter (black to ground and red tothe solenoid lead)onthe end that comes from the wirng harness, push the start button as if you were trying to start the bike and it should read around 12 volts. If it does read 12 volts then the starter solenoid is bad but if it does not then you have a more detailed problem like wiring ect. Get a wiring schematic because there could be other relays or component that may be affecting the starting circuit.

Goodluck!

Knot750:waving:

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Q

· #9 · Jun 10, 2009

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To check the solenoid unplug the two small wires that go into it and connect them directly to the battery. If you don't hear a click, the solenoid is bad. I've had the two small wires come loose inside the solenoid where they are soldered to the electromagnet coil wire, and have been able to solder them back in place then insulate the connection with liquid electrical tape. If you remove the two screws in the top of the solenoid you'll be able to pull the cap off and check those connections.

Q

morriscatt

· #10 · Jun 10, 2009

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I cleaned up the contacts inside the solenoid and it seemed to help also.

RB

· #11 · Jun 10, 2009

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Ok the guys have most of it. things to check connections at battery, relay and wires into the relay, at starter button, at plug under ignition, also at the clutch safety switch at the clutch perch..and there is a diode in that circuit that could be bad too..left side shelter..there are four little "red/rust colored" boxes I THINK it's the outside one toward the rear(gr/y wire) but not sure..check wire schematic..if the switch, connection or diode is bad the relay won't engage. You can swap them around all the same..something else will not work but the starter circuit will if that one is bad.

deathtrap

Discussion Starter · #12 · Jun 10, 2009

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Thanks for all of the suggestions everyone, I'll be trying this all out this weekend to see what happens, will let you know what I find out as I go along. And I've been lurking for some time, and it still amazes me how awesome all of you are.

MSGT-R

· #13 · Jun 10, 2009

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General automotive/motorcycle system operation:

The system is set up with:

Battery to solenoid to starter (large current)
Battery to start button to solenoid (small wire).

Power through the small wire engages the contacts through the solenoid to power the starter. If you don't get a "click" and you know you have a good battery (amperage), test for 12 volts at the small wire when the button is depressed. If you have voltage through the small wire present at the solenoid, the solenoid is bad.

Jumping the solenoid and getting the starter to spin is a strong indication.

Hidepounder

· #14 · Jun 10, 2009

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Also the solenoid has a "dog bone" looking fuse that may be bad. If so it will not allow it to work. I just replaced my solenoid in my 1100. Bought an after market for around 35.00. Sounds to me you have a bad solenoid. But check the starter. Jump a hot wire to the starter to see if it turns over. If so it's the solenoid.
Randy

Bike...and Dennis

· #15 · Jun 10, 2009

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OK Deathrap,

How we doin' so far?

Got hours of work ahead of you on this?

Before you do those hours of work...clean the starter button!

There's a little spring in there too that may need some attention. But I'll bet it's the button.

zimmerleemark

· #16 · Jun 10, 2009

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deathtrap wrote:

Ok, so every time I think I've got my GL1000 just about wrapped up, yet another problem crops up. Currently, I get no crank at all with the start button, regardless of battery level, and that includes having a charger on it set to boost. At this point, when I hit the button the headlight will go out, but nothing else occurs. If I run 12v across the relay, it will spin the starter, however, it will not click. Does that mean that the relay is shot? And if so, I've heard people mention lawn mower relays as replacements, do you have suggestions on a brand or part number? I'm just about ready to dispose of this thing, and that may include a cliff, or a really big truck.

bad starter button

mark:waving:

MSGT-R

· #17 · Jun 10, 2009

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http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?p=725967#post725967

That why I suggested he check for 12v at the solenoid connector with the button pressed. Before you tear it apart needlessly (possible), test it first.

grambo

· #18 · Jun 10, 2009

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on a older 1000 you might have rotten connections and pwr/gnd cables

daveman

· #19 · Jun 10, 2009

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I know it's frustrating, especially electrical but I think the guru's have it right...starter relay or button. (my money would be on the relay or relay connections, but hey, I'm no expert...far more experienced people here

)

Bike...and Dennis

· #20 · Jun 11, 2009

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Well I guess it's carma. After getting a haircut, I go to the bike, wrap myself up in riding attire, turn the key and...nuthin'! Try again...ditto. Dash, ignition, head and tail lights non functional. Clock and accessory lights are working but check the dogbone anyway, then the ignition fuse. All good.

So, right there in the parking lot I take the fake tank off to look at the wires. I had the coils out a couple days ago and I assume that's a good place to start.

It was, I didn't find anything wrong but fiddling with it made the bike work.

For how long? I don't know. But it wasn't the starter button.
:shock::cooldevil::cheeky1:

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