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HI guy's,

I've just come back from a trip into deepest darkest Cornwall. The rain was absolutly torrential couldn't see more than 20yds in front.

Having just replaced coils, plugs, caps and leads I thought all my ignition problems had gone.

But No, 10 min into the rain and the plugs start shorting out at low speeds.Ok so a good dose of WD40 works but Iwant to stop it from happening altogether

Any tips on keeping the plugs and leadsdry and waterproof(apart from don't ride!)
 

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I believe there are drain holes in the cavities for the plug. I'm not certain, however. Also, could you please tell the crowd what you're riding?

Hobie
 

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Hi Hobie 1,

from the amount of posts I make It's easy to forget something that simple!

1984 GL1200I Canadian Import.
 
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Hey JOHNO :waving: And you even have a photo of your baby :12grey:under your avitor. :weightlifter: I notice that you have not received your promotion to "Active Member" and you have 165 mesgs posted. :crying:wexman is slipping up. :whip:

:walker::18red::walker:
 

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I notice that you have not received your promotion to "Active Member"

Nice of you to say Redwing, does it come with pay...............................:D:D:D:D:D
 

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JOHNO wrote:
HI guy's,

I've just come back from a trip into deepest darkest Cornwall. The rain was absolutly torrential couldn't see more than 20yds in front.

Having just replaced coils, plugs, caps and leads I thought all my ignition problems had gone.

But No, 10 min into the rain and the plugs start shorting out at low speeds.Ok so a good dose of WD40 works but Iwant to stop it from happening altogether

Any tips on keeping the plugs and leadsdry and waterproof (apart from don't ride!)
JOHNO, I have had that very same problem a couple of times on my personal 1200 & my drain holes are open. In talking to alocal early Wing expert he says the best thing to do is swap the chrome sparkplug tin beauty covers side to side (it takes a little re-work according to him). I haven't done that yet (it's on my to-do list) but plan on it before venturing into the next monsoon. Apparently the way they are in production they scoop the rain water in.
All I have done so far isfill the spark plug boots with dielectric grease to keep the water out & keep the spark from arcing down the porcelain but haven't been into a driving rain to test yet.

Twisty
 

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Already done twisty, I did that when I started having ignition problems last year,

although better, when moving slow it seams the rain runs of the false tank straight down the leads into the plug holes, the rubber covers don't do the job they're supposed to. Anything above 15/20mph and it all dry's out and everything is back to normal.

I've pulled the new plug caps and they are definitely starting to blacken at the ends already.

There must be some sort of ignition sealer that doesn't go yellow(like the stuff used on cars)and can standhigh tempsavailable somewhere, I wonder what the guy's in the wetlands use.
 
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JOHNO wrote:
I notice that you have not received your promotion to "Active Member"

Nice of you to say Redwing, does it come with pay...............................:D:D:D:D
Hey JOHNO :waving: I dont know what the present salary is :stumped:but claim it if it's there. You can send a PM to wexman and he will fix it for you. :jumper:

:walker::18red::walker:
 

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JOHNO wrote:
Already done twisty, I did that when I started having ignition problems last year,

although better, when moving slow it seams the rain runs of the false tank straight down the leads into the plug holes, the rubber covers don't do the job they're supposed to. Anything above 15/20mph and it all dry's out and everything is back to normal.

I've pulled the new plug caps and they are definitely starting to blacken at the ends already.

There must be some sort of ignition sealer that doesn't go yellow(like the stuff used on cars)and can standhigh tempsavailable somewhere, I wonder what the guy's in the wetlands use.
JOHNO, if the bottom of the resistor caps are turning black then you know where your problem is. You might try a good dielectric grease in the caps (I like the GE stuff myself as it holds it's viscosity longer than any other I have used). You could also try adding a slip over short silicon rubber boot to the outside of the caps to allow a dead air space at the bottom of the caps. All you need is a 1/4" to 3/8" gap to prevent spark leakage.

Twisty
 

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JOHNO, if your spark plug gap is too wide or your plugs are near the end of their useful life the spark will try jumping out before it gets to the plug gap.

I find it interesting that I used to have electrical problems such as yours before I started using Irridium spark plugs, yet, just the other day I drove my GL1200 through a torrential downpour that lasted for almost 50 miles but never experienced a single sputter or miss from the engine. The Irridium electrode allows for better spark due to the sharp edge the positive electrode maintains for such a very long time. According to the manual stock spark plugs are good for 8000 miles then should be replaced in a Gold Wing. Irridium spark plugs have an anticipated life of 60,000 miles or more depending on the ignition system. Other benefits I have noticed with the Irridium plugs are smoother idling, faster starts and better fuel economy.

Who would of thought that the spark plugsmake that much of adifference?

Vic
 

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You could also try adding a slip over short silicon rubber boot to the outside of the caps to allow a dead air space at the bottom of the caps. All you need is a 1/4" to 3/8" gap to prevent spark leakage

Twisty, wouldn't the heat from the cylinders in the enclosed position cause the boot to break down, the last thing I want is a sticky goo of rubber in the bottom of the spark plug recess.


The caps I have already have a rubber end piece fitted, but Im wondering wether this makes it worse if water collects between the rubber and plug,

I might try sealing the top of the caps together with clear silicone sealant to prevent water from traveling down the recess in the first place.
 

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Hi Goldwinger 1984

I must admit, I was reading about Iridium spark plugs for a restoration project I'm doing and they do seem to be more efficient.

Do you know the part No. for an 84 wing?

at the moment I'm using NGK DPR-8-EA9 and they only have about 1500 miles on them.
 

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Johno, I see you´ve been upgraded to Active Member now, along with some other lads. Steve must have had a script done to activate this every so often, because it used to have to be done manually as far as I know.

About the plugs, you can buy an ignition sealing laquer spray. It coats the leads and caps with a hard clearcoat. It does work but the drawback is it´crakcs after a few months, so you have to remove it with a dab of petrol or thinners and reapply.
 

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hi GWNorman

thats the stuff I'm trying to avoid, I've used it on Three wheelers before, it's ok to begin with but then yellows and cracks and causes more problems than it cures

I need something long lived as I spend a lot of time on the road in all weathers.More often than not,when it's maint. time for the bike I end up working abroad so only have a weekendto get everything done before it's on the road again!
 

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JOHNO wrote:
Twisty, wouldn't the heat from the cylinders in the enclosed position cause the boot to break down, the last thing I want is a sticky goo of rubber in the bottom of the spark plug recess.


The caps I have already have a rubber end piece fitted, but Im wondering whether this makes it worse if water collects between the rubber and plug,

I might try sealing the top of the caps together with clear silicone sealant to prevent water from traveling down the recess in the first place.
JOHNO, only if it's regular rubber. Silicone rubber like spark plug boots or high temp emission hose will hold up to the heat.



The caps I have already have a rubber end piece fitted, but Im wondering whether this makes it worse if water collects between the rubber and plug,
I would guess that is what's causing your problem. If you didn't havewater up between that cap & plug you should have a large enough spark gap so the spark couldn't travel down the plug porcelain.



I might try sealing the top of the caps together with clear silicone sealant to prevent water from traveling down the recess in the first place.
If you think there is any chance that water is running down the plugwire & entering those resistor caps from the top by all means seal them. That could beall it takes to correct your problem. A good quality silicon dielectric grease should seal the inside of those caps but maybesome high temp silicone sealer at the top would be all you need.

If you seal only the top let us know if that corrects the problem?

Twisty
 

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will do, but knowing my luck, it won't rain for another six months!!!!!!!!!!!!:cheeky1::cheeky1:

(fat chance!!!!):?:?:?:?
 
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Hey JOHNO :waving: I see your promotion has been sanctioned. :clapper:Congrats.

:leprechaun::18red::leprechaun:
 

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Thanks Redwing, expecting the cheque anytime now!!!:cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1:
 
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