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2004 1800... does anyone know what kind of amperage (at the battery)is normal with the key off.
 

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I would think it would be minimal .And hardly noticable as the only draw on it is the memory for the clock and the dash settings etc ..But if left for a month or two it will slowly drain your battery ,,I think this is what you were looking for? Cheers Ciaran
 

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yellowwing wrote:
12.8 on mine today, haven't run it since Sunday.
Hey yellowwing :waving: Where do you find that reading?? :baffled:

:leprechaun::18red::leprechaun:
 

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Boy you guys!!!!!

there is a world of difference between what he is asking (AMPS) and what you are giving out(VOLTAGE)

They are interrelated BUT do not measure the same So back to the original post Do you want to know the static amp draw off your battery with the ignition off? This is the power required to keep your clocks mem etc going(Milli amps)or do you just want to know the batt voltage at ignition off ?????
 

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At last someone with a bit of knowledge:):) ,,Thats what I was trying to say ,,but I have never taken a reading of the amp draw when switched off ,,But I do know it is minimal ,,,,,,,
 

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My battery went dead after a few months of storage. After I charged the batteryI reinstalled it and noticed a small spark indicating there is some kind of load even with the key off. What I am looking for is the amperage (milliamps) with the key off. The reason I asked this question is a few months ago I had the misfortune of having a pack rat chew up a few things on the bike. I was curious as to whether this drain on the battery is normal or if the SOB rodent chewed through some insulation and it is shorting out and draining the battery. As a Power Lineman (working on the power lines...up to60,000 volts)Idefinitely know the difference between voltage and amperage.
 

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So its amps you want I don't know about 1500's but my 1200 has a load of about 60 ma clock(s) and temp gauge are on all the time.

Batt goes to can't start stage in about a month but that rarely happens on the coast (close last month) So a small spark is normal

Kelowna Eh I ride thru there a lot
 

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CCSailor

This is unrelated to the first question but I fully charged the battery a week ago and went for a short ride. When I got home I was playing with the radio for about 5 minutes with the key in the on position (and theengine not running) and the battery then wouldn't start the bike. I'm not sure if the battery is NFG or it is not big enough to leave the lights on for 5 minutes. I'm charging the battery again and I'll stick an amp meter on it before connecting the battery cable.

Anyway... It's been beautiful here too!! I haven't insured the bike yet... maybe this weekend.Wewere down your way a couple of weeks ago to the bike show in Abbotsford... I was wishing for a spare million and a ten car garage. I reallywould likea Triumph Thruxton and I hate to admit it but I'd love aTitan Chopperbut I've got other priorities. If your coming this way give me a call and we'll go for a ride.
 

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You got it cI'll call next time Might have bumped into you at the show I was there sat. can't be;lieve how many bike clubs trying to get you to join Not for me thanks 2-3 max not a herd



Back to your problem I would take your battery to a batt shop and have them load test it Usually free From what you are saying I think you will be buying a new one
 

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XCLR8N wrote:
I was wishing for a spare million. I hate to admit it but I'd love aTitan Chopperbut I've got other priorities.
Hey XCLR8N :waving: You can borrow my neighbours anytime, if you got the licence to :bat: it. :weightlifter:

:walker::18red::walker:
 

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Hey Redwing ,,must be very slow ..its WHITE ..:dude::dude:
 

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wexman wrote:
Hey Redwing ,,must be very slow ..its WHITE ..:dude::dude:
Hey wexman :waving:I forgot to tell the members that White is the fastest colour in Choppers :clapper:

:leprechaun: :18red: :leprechaun:
 

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20.33 amps after being disconnected from the tender with ignition off. After a run it may be less, but I won't be riding today.
 

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Its pulling 20 amps? There is certainly a problem there somewhere.
 

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I think he probably meant 23 milliamps... 23 amps would be ....... ummm .........rather exciting to measure... and would kill the battery in just a few minutes... SilverDave/forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif
 

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According to all the info on this thread and a 30 day to final, no start condition: the average 20 AH battery in a bike draws .1333 maximum amps on average, internal and external draw. I assumed a 20 AH battery and a 30 day killl time. But if all/any of the info is incorrect then my assumption is incorrect. Please note that all lead acid batteries hate the cold and hate the heat. So if below room temp or above room temp the lifespan and capacity of the battery will change, drop.

If you have a milliampere DMM, stick it between the -ve post and the frame and see what the draw is with the key off, next verify that the key and its electrical switches correspond, if a switch component remains closed, then you may be sucking up energy and that could be the culprit.

Presently I am storing an 1100 in an unheated garage in Orangeville with temperatures as low as -15C so far this year. I charge the battery every 2 weeks at 2 amp max and it tops out within minutes, including a spark plug free bike, oiled combustion area, kill switch on kill, starter engaged until the oil light goes out. Leave the charger trickle it for a day then do it all over in a couple of weeks.

The advantage with an 1100 in battery life is simple, it has nothing on it that draws energy when not in use, but if you add devices like clocks, temp gauges, or any device that requires a volatile memory back up similar to the new bikes that uses CPU driven computer devices then you will have a small constant draw to keep these devices up to date.

Also take note that any battery will suffer losses from the cold, stratification will take place also within the battery, this is a good reason to equalize a battery upon a longer storage period. And remember a dead battery will freeze, DO NOT EVER RECHARGE A DEAD BATTERY WHEN FROZEN. REMOVE IT AND LET IT DEFROST.WHEN THE ELECTROLYTE IS LIQUID AGAIN, USE A VERY GENTLE TRICKLE TO START THE PROCESS OR TOSS IT IN THE RECYCLE BIN. a FROZEN BATTERY IS A BOMB WAITING TO GO OFF. EXTENSIVE DAMAGE AS WARPED SHORTED PLATES, OPEN ROD POSTS, CRAP AT THE BOTTOM PLATE NOW IN THE MIX, CRACKED BODY FROM EXPANSION.

Wear eye protection, keep the kids away, keep it at room temperature and covered.
 
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