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Hi .

Anybody changed a K n N air filter on a 2008 air bag model yet need to know any pit falls.;)

Cheers

Gold99
 

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A quick way to destroy a good engine.

They "filter best" when they get clogged up.

Read this, K&N was dead last in quality of performance. ie, keeping dirt out of the engine.

http://www.duramax-diesel.com/spicer/index.htm

There is a very good thread on this topic, with a link to "Bob is the Oil Guy". Search for that on Google. Then think about K&N.
 

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This will go against what most would think about taking care of your bike, but the K and N is more open and not such a good choice. Some report the loss of fuel mileage and other problems due to the increased air flow with that filter with this particular bike.

Even the standard OEM unless you run on dirty and dusty roads a lot will still be relatively clean at 30,000 miles. I suppose it would go much further than that under normal conditions, and actually as a filter does become partly restricted with dust and debris it becomes a better filter .

We changed a couple of them at our last maintenance day and the bikes had 20 to 25 thousand on them, filters were a little dirty but not bad, would have went much further without ever restricting the engine.

Kit
 

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Kit Carson wrote:
Even the standard OEM unless you run on dirty and dusty roads a lot will still be relatively clean at 30,000 miles. I suppose it would go much further than that under normal conditions, and actually as a filter does become partly restricted with dust and debris it becomes a better filter .



Kit
True to a point Kit. If it becomes really dirty the vacuum will increase under the filter and it will start passing particles that would normally be trapped but that is way beyond it's time to be changed. The service interval on cars is 30,000 and most make that pretty well. I disagree with the 12,000 mile interval on the 1800 is why I haven't changed mine yet.
 

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Thanks every one you talked me out of the K n N.Still has anybody changed or cleaned out a filter with the air bag model is it harder than other models .
Cheers .
 

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Not a whole lot. Main thing is unhook the negative side of the battery just in case.

At the shelter and at the false tank, the little box that surrounds the gas fill, in front and under it are some velcro tabs. you have to carefully remove them , all the rest is the same. Putting things back you just take a bit more time and make sure the velcro is fastened back properly and the straps, are not pinched under something and holding like they should.

Kit
 

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Good decision there on Not Using a K&N filter.

I'd just do a regular PM about 30,000 miles with an OEM filter. As suggested, make sure the base plate gasket is secure.

When I got my bike, it was having problems like yours. Pulled the air filter and could see daylight between the air filter base and the carbs. Not a good thing. :(
 

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Thanks for the info. I have a K&N on my 82 Asp and after this I will make a note to change it in the Spring. I have only had it this year with a few thousand miles so hopefully not much nagative impact will occur.:shock:

Thanks again:cool:
 

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I doubt much damage will result from using the oil wetted type filter on your bike, but definitely believe that the OEM type filter will result in better filtration. My 1500 had a K&N filter that had been on the bike for two years prior to my purchase of the bike. During normal maintenance inspection of the K&N showed a lot of pinhole light spots shining through the filter when held up to the sun. Obviously this would pass larger dirt particles than the OEM filter I replaced it with. The OEM filter did not show any pinhole light spots.

One good use for a K&N filter in my opinion is on marine or engines used on water. I ran a pair of them on my homebuilt Avid Flyer airplane that I operated on floats. The possibility of ingesting spray was in my opinion a good reason to use an oil wetted filter that would stand up better to water than a paper filter. Otherwise I like paper type better.
 
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