Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
919 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
imported post

OK,since my bike is sitting while its 26 degrees outside, I'm doing a few things to get extra ledlighting on it and drop some watts for heated gear.

So what is the final outcome for a good replacement Brake LED? I've done some reading and that incandescent sucker on the rear is really soaking up some juice. I have to replace both and need wide angle and I imagine 180 degree visible with the reflector in the tail light housing.

If anyone has replaced these with good results,where you'd get them and how much?LMK. JR
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
155 Posts
imported post

Try http://www.lednights.com . The owner is a Goldwing rider and an all around good guy. I have noticed he will bend over backwards to help out if there are any difficulties, and his products are first rate. He has sourced bulbs that have the proper array for the transverse mounting on the older wings. He also sells entire kits for the GL1200, and I believe the 1100 as well.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,929 Posts
imported post

Keep in mind a couple things:

Just because light x has 20 LEDs and light y has 30 LEDs doesn't necessarily mean light y will appear brighter. The individual LEDs used all have different light outputs as well, so the type of LEDs used to make the lights make a big difference. I have a big rechargeable flashlight with 15 LEDs in the front, and I have a tiny two-cell Maglite with 1 LED in it - and the Maglite is far brighter than the 15 LED light, blindingly so.

The second thing to keep in mind is on the 1100, due to the shape of the reflector, virtually all of the light needs to go out the sides of the bulb in order to light up the entire red lens. Light going out the top of the bulb will appear as a tiny red dot on the outside of the lens, not very useful. The more BRIGHT LED's that are on the side of the bulb, the better.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,929 Posts
imported post

Oh, one other thing: If you are looking for power savings, and intend on replacing your turn signals, then you MUST also replace your flasher with an electronic flasher.

The reason is this: On a standard setup with incandescent bulbs and a traditional mechanical flasher, the flasher depends on the current drawn by the light bulbs to function. The flasher contains a bi-metallic strip. The current drawn by the light bulbs heats up the bi-metallic strip inside the flasher. When this strip heats up, it bends, which pulls the contacts apart inside the flasher, breaking the circuit. This turns the light bulbs off. Because there is no more current flowing, the bi-metallic strip cools off, and returns to its original position, pushing the contacts back together again. This completes the circuit, the light bulbs come back on again, and the cycle repeats. This happens a couple times a second, which is why your turn signals flash on and off.

When you replace your turn signals with LEDs, you have a problem. In comparison to the regular light bulbs, the LEDs draw a miniscule amount of current - not enough to heat up the bi-metallic strip inside the flasher. This means the flasher will not function, and the turn signals just stay on, instead of flashing.

The way the LED vendors normally get around this is by selling "resistor packs" or "resistors" that you wire in parallel with the LED bulbs. These resistors sink current directly to ground, drawing enough current to make the flasher heat up enough so that it flashes.

But...if you are drawing current and sinking it to ground through resistors, you have just negated any power savings that you hoped to achieve by installing LED bulbs! Whether the current is going through an incandescent bulb or through a resistor, current is current!

The correct way to reduce power usage with LEDs is to skip the resistor and to replace your mechanical flasher with a solid-state unit that has no moving parts and does not depend on current to heat up a bi-metallic strip.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,046 Posts
imported post

Thanks GS!! Always wondered how a flasher works and what that resistor use in LED's was all about.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,379 Posts
imported post

there is no big change on the power saving using leds on turn signals. as the turn signals are not powered up all the time. so my advice would be. keep incandescent bulbs on turn signals.
but if you want to go on leds for a brighter solution. then use resistors. the draw may be the same as incandescent but you will not worry about flashers and auto cancel units.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,929 Posts
imported post

What makes me want to use LEDs on turn signals is that LEDs turn on and off more or less instantly, unlike the "fade up" and "fade down" of incandescent bulbs as their filaments heat up and cool down. That sharp flick on/off of LEDs catches your eye more than incandescent bulbs - the same reason strobe lights on an emergency vehicle catch your eye.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
919 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
imported post

Thanks guys. I've used superbrightleds before. Good store. I'll get his recomendation for the brake/tail. I replaced all the bumper & trunk lights with led and it helped alot. I dont have any plans for the blinker/running unless I can get away without using any kind of resistor because your right on saving with that just defeats the purpose.

I want to get as close to brightness as stock. Incandescant from what I've seen is brighter but extremely juice robbing.I thought maybe someone out there had come close with something. JR
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,790 Posts
imported post

I havent used the replacement LED bulbs . I chucked the whole rear system . Then Went to Tractor Supply Store and bought a set of LED tail lamp assy for a trailer . Mounted that in place of the stock tail lights . Yes I put both lamp units in place of the stock one . On the bags I made a new part ( I know everyone cant fab aluminum ) to replace the original lamp holders . I now have dual filiment amber oval LEDs . Yep one day I might get a ticket for running amber tail lamps along with the red tail lamps. So far no problems with that in riding 3 states . If you want a picture I'll try and send you one .
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
627 Posts
imported post

Feetup wrote:
Try http://www.lednights.com . The owner is a Goldwing rider and an all around good guy. I have noticed he will bend over backwards to help out if there are any difficulties, and his products are first rate. He has sourced bulbs that have the proper array for the transverse mounting on the older wings. He also sells entire kits for the GL1200, and I believe the 1100 as well.
thanks for the info . just made it one of my favorate sites:clapper:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,525 Posts
imported post

I have a bunch of tower LED's that I used on my 1200. I pulled then all out when I sold the bike. The tower LED's are quite bright and give a good 360 degree lighting much lihe the incandescent. If your interested PM me and I'll send a link showing a picture.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,525 Posts
imported post

Here is a picture of a red tower LED. The ones I have are not the same brand but they work exactly the same. If you want pictures of mine then I'll have to wait a couple of days for me to get them. I'm working midnight shift for a couple of days and I try not to do anything too strenuous.:cheeky1:
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
919 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
imported post

Is there a link for those towers?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
580 Posts
imported post

I have a GL1100 Interstate. I converted my rear lighting to LED 2 years ago. I did not use bulbs as the brightness is suspect. I used lights that are used on the back of semi trailers and cargo trailers. The bags carry 6 3/8 x 2 1/4 x 1 units, sometimes known as 6 inch oval. These units are a very close fit in the stock cutout. They required slight trimming of the light unit. This trimming did not affect the waterproof integrity of the unit. I wired these units through a trailer brake/turn light converter that is available at auto parts stores. The converter makes the lights work as running lights, turn signals and brake lights like a car that has red only lights on the rear. I am now VERY visible while still appearing stock and adding 2 additional brake lights that are brighter than any bulb. For the original tail light, I got a rectangular trailer unit, 3 1/2 in x 5 1/5 x 1 15/16, glued it inside the original lens and wired it into the stock wiring. The back of my bike now has 3 bright tail lights, 3 VERY bright brake lights and bright turn signals, all while appearing stock and cutting power usage by 80%.

John
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
580 Posts
imported post

Close view of bag light.

John
 

Attachments

1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top