Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
296 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
imported post

I bought some red LED's from China, very bright. I did Rudy's great project and replaced the side saddlebag lights on my GL1500 with LED's. Mine are VERY bright and the 4 halogen bulbs that were previously there have been replaced with two strips of 12 LEDs each and are much brighter. In this photo, I fitted LED's to one of the red lenses and taped it temporarily right over the 4-bulb halogen one, just to see which is brighter. In this photo, you can easily see that the LED's are much brighter than the 4-bulb ones. Rudy's directions were very helpful. Since his writeup, waterproof LED's and brighter ones have become available.





Now, my question is, can I do the same thing with the tail and brake lights? Would they be legal? Thoughts? I had the idea of putting 3 rows of 6 LEDs each in the bottom saddlebag stop/tail light lenses. The middle row would be on for a tail light. I would then turn on the other two rows for stop lights. In these pictures, the right hand light has the LED's and the left hand one has the standard 1157 bulb.

Tail lights:




Stop Lights:



Any thoughts?
 

·
Monkey with a Football
Joined
·
19,237 Posts
imported post

I like it.
You can also dim them electrically by using a lower voltage regulator when running and bypass the regulator when you want full bright.

How did you get into the housings to place the LEDs?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
296 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
imported post

Rudy wrote:
I like it.
You can also dim them electrically by using a lower voltage regulator when running and bypass the regulator when you want full bright.

How did you get into the housings to place the LEDs?
Thanks Rudy. Your project for the saddlebags inspired me to start this stuff. I bought 15m of strip LED lighting from China....
I think I know what to do with the lower light level. I would just wire both the brake and tail light wires to the center strip, with diodes (on both wires?) and put an additional resistor in the taillight circuit, I guess. I can infer the resistance of the LED's by the voltage and current draw. E=IR. So, 12=.1*r, or probably around 100-150 ohms is the imputed resistance of the LED's. So I would probably start with a resistor of around 120 ohms in the taillight circuit and see how dim that made it....

The camera is really not 100% true to life on the taillight and stop light photos. In person, the LED's really look much brighter than the normal 1157 bulbs, especially if the following car were close, and say a truck or SUV, so they are looking down at the bike more so than straight at it.

I got into the housings by first removing the assembly with two screws in the chrome trim band, per the shop manual. Then I carefully pried the tabs off and used a sharp screwdriver and knife to cut through the rubber caulk/adhesive that held the case together. Being CAREFUL, it worked OK. Then I assembled the 3 strips of LED's as one unit and taped them inside the red lense. Piece of cake really, just time consuming.

I am just not 100% sure if I should continue with it or put it back as it was with 1157 bulbs. I have a long trip next week through many many states and don't want any LEO to get his back up. Though I've had led running lights on my other bike and a brake modulator with no hassles. I do think however, that the LEDs are more visible. The way I have it, the LED's can be in addition to the 1157 in the housing, though they would block some of the 1157 light coming out the red lense.

Thoughts?
 

·
Monkey with a Football
Joined
·
19,237 Posts
imported post

LEOs are pretty used to seeing LEDs on bikes and cars so I wouldn't worry about it too much. Just make sure the running lights don't look like the brakes are on. Make sure you leave your turn signals alone unless you are ready to deal with all that.

Where did you get your strips? Were they already sealed?

I'd like to get some.
 

·
Administrator
Piaggio MP3, was 02 GL1800
Joined
·
61,640 Posts
imported post

I can't see you having a problem with brighter brake lights.

The object is to be seen, and if the lights are brighter, your odds of being seen are improved.

The brake lights on newer cars are ten times brighter than the stuff of yesteryear. And for a good reason, visibility.

The running light brightness you can handle with series resistance as you mentioned.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,572 Posts
imported post

In Ohio, there are laws governing the minimum number of brake lights, with only one light required for motorcycles. There are no rules for the maximum number, so more is more gooder....

Joe
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
296 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
imported post

OK. Thanks for the advice. Sounds like I'm OK to proceed. So, if I proceed with this, several options. In all cases, I can either keep the 1157 in the circuit or delete it and use just the LEDs. Remember I have 3 strips of 6 bright LEDs.
1. Simplest is what I have: center LED strip is tail, top and bottom are brake.
2. Another option is center LED strip--dimmed to half intensity--is tail, all three at full intensity are brake.
3. Could just have all 3 dim for tail, and all 3 full brightness for brake.

So, a. Do I keep the 1157?
and b. Which of the 3 LED options, or some other, makes the most sense?

Rudy, I can dig out my invoice and PM you, if you want. I got mine direct from China, still cuttable in 3 LED segments, and they are waterproof--they have a clear vinal cover that makes them waterproof, with silicon on the ends. They have a bunch of different LED's. However, each smd has 3 leds in it, so they are nice and bright. By the way, the 24 LEDs on each side of the saddlebag--your project--are so bright, they are almost too much. In the garage, they light up the entire garage when they are on. I maybe should have used only one row....
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top