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I replaced one tail-light/stoplight bulb with a 9-element LED. I left the other bulb stock for comparison. There is none. At night both the tail-light and the stoplight of the original are far brighter (according to my aging eyes) than the LED. Should I upgrade the 9-element LED to one with a higher number?
 

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One problem with LED's is the design difference how they throw out light. An incandescent bulb will throw photons almost in a 360 degree sphere, while the LED actually has a built in lens, concentrating it like a headlight would.

So the problem lies with the reflector assembly on the bike. It's designed to collect light from the bulb and multiply the bulb's feeble light output. The LED doesn't put out anything sideways, and this is the result.

I'm sure other guys can point you to another site that deals with the problem, maybe high output LED's or something.
 

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At 30 bucks a pop (and I need two pops) plus postage I think I'll stick with the incandescents. I'd rather be seen than worry about charging my battery at low speed. (As if I ride at low speed!!)
 

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I've tried a 1/2 dozen or so various "brighter than incandescent" bulbs and they've all produced less light than the standard 1157, even the type LED's that throw light to the side like the picture above.
I think with the reflector design of the fixture a small area of LED's will never appear as bright as a 1157.
Tail light fixtures designed with LED's from the get go can be VERY bright. Many bikes and cars already have them but they use a entirely different shell.
 

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I had good luck with the "Tower" style LED 1157 bulbs. I found them to most closely reproduce the 360 degree light pattern of an incandescent bulb and to my eyes appeared brighter.

Look for LED "tower" bulbs like this . . .




One other thing to watch out for is LED bulbs that are too big in diameter. You'll never get them through the socket hole. :doh:
 

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:waving:The "tailBlazer" Deceleration Warning by Kisan Technologies is the way to go. The base has a micro processor and theG-4halogen bulb is replaceable. When you apply the brakes the tailBlazer bulbs flash about 5 seconds then goes to a steady brake light and by releasing the brakes and reapplying it will go throught the cycle again. This is a great safety feature for you GoldWing. The G-4 halogen runs cooler than the 1157 bulbs.

I have both the"tailBlazer" and the "pathBlazer" headlight modulator, also made byKisan Technologies, on my "83 Interstate. Part numbers are: 10W-2PAK for the tailBlazer and 115W-S for the pathBlazer Head Light Modulator
 

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I know for a fact that these LEDs are brighter than stock 1157s and accomplish what most of us are trying to do. Reduce the electrical load on an already overtaxed system, offer safety and offer some electrical reserve for some other accessories.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/specs/1156-xLX5.htm

These are $30 each, but they get the job done. I tried multi LED units and they did not come anywhere close to these Luxeon LEDS. I used the 3 watt Luxeon 1156 ambers in the rear turn signals.

:pumpkin:

:pumpkin:Tim
 

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9 LEDs? I have an LED conversion on my CBR and there are nearly 100 LEDs on the panel! The kit also came with a lens designed for the LED panel. If you take a look at a car with LEDs you'll notice the red lens is made entirerly different than a standard blub type. A great sub for the LED blub conversion is the HF LED trailer light kit. It's got a lens you can adapt as well as a great LED panel
 
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