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OK dug out my schematics Power from fuse #7 brn /blu wire goes thru ignition switch input to display is brn/wht (should have batt volts on it) Green to ground from display If voltage and ground there change bulbs. There is4 bulbsThe main connector is behind the left fork on bracket on frame under pod (left side)- int c75(6-blk)- Asp c75(6 red)
 

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opps Sorry pod is your fake gas tank You have to remove it to get access to the connector that is labeled as above Front left side close to neck#'s refer to pin #'s in connector but just look for colour coded wire and measure volts and ground there before removing ibstrument unit to change bulbs
 

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I had a post a while back on checking your stator and reg I'll reattach here. Have a go at it Its pretty straightforward

GL1200 Stator Testing

By Neil









Get a digital voltmeter that measures A/C and DC as well as resistance

Pull battery cover (left side) off and put bike on centre stand



Have battery load tested at battery shop if OK charge overnight measure DC volts straight across battery after charge should be about 13.5-13.9 VDC Reinstall battery.

On the left side of the battery you will see three yellow wires either going to a plug or wired straight thru by previous owner


Disconnect the plug OR cut the three yellow wires one at a time VERY important ONE at a time mark wiresA; B: C; You have to disconnect to get true readings. If left connected a lot of other problems could mislead you. Clean wires leading to stator by about ½ inch. You will be soldering later



Start The bike



This will not hurt the bike in anyway. It will run on the battery

Put meter on A/C scale across any combination A-B;B-C;A-C rev bike to 3000 RPM. You should see 45 to 60 volts A/Cacross any of above combination

If OK shut bike offmeasure on resistance scale (50K is good) from each of three wires to ground It should be infinite EG open must not have any shorts to ground

Measure from A-B; B:-C; A:-C; measurement should be in the vicinity of 1.2 ohms on any of the legs

If all measurements are ok (volts and resistance)your stator is good



Bad News Scenarios



1 A/C volts under 40 V A/C (with wires disconnected and at 3000 RPM)

2 Any leg A: B: or C: shorted to ground (Low or no resistance to ground)

3 Any combination A:-B: B:-C: A:-C: open (infinite resistance)



If stator is bad you may consider the alternator alternative See separate post on that subject

Or it entails pulling engine to replace stator



Ifyou havethe plug cut it out and solder each of the three yellow wires straight thru cover with heat shrink. Follow wiring all the way down to where it enters engine(under sleeve) just to make sure there are no other hidden splices (throw the plug at the neighbour’s cat or some thing it’s a piece of crap)



While you are in the area it is recommended that you change the fuseable link (30 amp main fuse) to a heavy-duty fuse holder with bayonet style fuses. These old fuses have a tendency to corrode and fail at the worst times leaving you with a dead bike



Start bike with meter still attached to battery voltage will go down while cranking over but should come back up to 13 VDC plus when you rev bike turn on Hi Beams volt should drop slightly but still be over 13 VDC if not e.g. 11 to 11.5 dc replace regulator 10 min job (lots on ebay)
 

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Can't quite follow the last two posts

Did you test stator similar to above post?

Is bike running when you measured voltages with headlight fuse in and out?

sure sounds to me like a bad battery Have you had it load tested? Charge overnight and take it to a local battery shop they won't charge you for a load test (at least they don't around here)
 

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Well I be [email protected]@ed It shows on the left side facing forward in the books and is there on my bike. I assume you have removed the fake tank . SO instead just find the wiring loom coming out off your instument cluster and follow it to the connection block then measure for ground and voltage at that point Did you get a new batt and did it solve your other problem?
 
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