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I know the Dunlop E3s seem to be the way to go but $200 is a lot of money to me right now. What else will give me the mileage of the dunlops for less money? I was going to use dyna beads no matter what I choose. My requirements are as close to 20,000 miles as possible out of the rear tire. The reason for the longevity requirements for the rear tire is after replacing the tire on my GL1100 I said never again, well I guess it happened a lot sooner than I thought on the new bike and I will more than likely do it myself. I know I will get some arguments but I have ridden with mismatched tires before and have not noticed any difference. I am kind of hard on tires I like the twisties (when I find them) 75-80 mph is not uncommon for me, I ride in a lot of hot weather and very seldom in the rain if I can help it. I am curious about the Kendas.
 

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It might help if ya told us which bike the tire is going on.



If the 1500, get a car tire and enjoy.
 

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Since he says

"after replacing the tire on my GL1100 I said never again, well I guess it happened a lot sooner than I thought on the new bike"

I make a WAG he needs new skids on the 1500 . For me its a Dunlop Wintersport on the rear and E 3 radial on the front . I am very happy with them .I will say the Wintersport was about $150 so not a lot of immediate savings, though I expect the mileage to make up for it.I cant say anything good or bad about a Kenda , never rode with one .
 

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20,000 is a lot from a rear tire. I live 35 miles from you and the problem in central Illinois is wearing the center out. If you are talking the 1500 I would go with the E'3 and watch the air pressure. Dyna Beads great idea. If you are going with a tire for the 1100. I never found a tire to go much over 10,000. But they are cheaper. Changing not that bad. I have a table lift and that really helps.
 

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Just another ORF!
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The Dunlop E3 rear MC tire went further (by ~ 6,000mi)than the Federal Formoza CT I had on it and I'm still testing the Austone Taxi CT on it now.

Here's your cheapest source, out the door,for an E3 - $164.99 (which includes free shipping)
 

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I got well over 20,000 from my Formosa and am waiting in a Goodyear Assurance to arrive now :action::action::action:
 

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Dusty Boots wrote:
The Dunlop E3 rear MC tire went further (by ~ 6,000mi)than the Federal Formoza CT I had on it and I'm still testing the Austone Taxi CT on it now.

Here's your cheapest source, out the door,for an E3 - $164.99 (which includes free shipping)
Yes but most people don't feel comfortable riding on tires until you can see through them.
 

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OnaWingandaPrayer wrote:
...Dunlop Wintersport on the rear and E 3 radial on the front . I am very happy with them .I will say the Wintersport was about $150 so not a lot of immediate savings, though I expect the mileage to make up for it...
> I agree... my 1st Wintersport got 20k miles, and still had plenty of tread in the middle, but had worn out the corners.

I figure the Wintersport lasts Twice as long as a rear Dunlop E3, hence it's cost is really 1/2 of $150, or $75/each... which is pretty good. Not to mention, it also has the benefits of being a Run-on-Flat, and a Radial as well.
 

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I am referring to the 1500. I have done a lot of research on the CT and the mileage vs price difference doesn't seem to add up to me. From what I have read the sidewalls are going about 20k on CT for about $150 and the Dunlops are going are close to 20k as well for 164.99 (which is something to think about)-$200 . I like the idea of the car tire but for my first GL1500 experience I am going MC tire so can get a true sense of the bike. I don't mean that in a negative way I just want to understand the bike before I tweak it. I have read that people are getting sets of kendas for under $200. I know you get what you pay for and I have read some horror stories about chunks of rubber flying off these tires but they seem like isolated incidents if any one has burned through a set of kenda kruz's let me know the mileage attained please. I am leaning towards the Dunlops, maybe saving $20-$40 isn't worth the gamble I am just trying to cover all my bases, especially when tires are not the only repair on the list.
 

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ALEX BERECZKY wrote:
> I agree... my 1st Wintersport got 20k miles, and still had plenty of tread in the middle, but had worn out the corners.
What air pressure are you running, sounds like it's a little low. :waving:
 

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96aspencade wrote:
...What air pressure are you running [in the Wintersport], sounds like it's a little low...
> 41 PSI, which I arrived at by experiementing to attain a Full Contact Patch across the width of the tire.


FYI, here's a write-up I did about the Demise of my 1st Wintersport... The edges developed a buldge (delamination) with tread still present; The center still had ample tread.
http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=272871
 

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Thanks Alex, is that the Max recommended pressure indicated on the side wall ?? It dosen't sound like you have a full contact patch if the shoulders are wearing before the center:?
I also have mentioned previously that I would have a little concern using a Winter tire in warm temp's, on my skid pad I notice the difference between different rated tires
(different compounds) and the wear patterns, going through basically the same routine daily.:action::action:
 

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96aspencade wrote:
...is that the Max recommended pressure indicated on the side wall ?? It dosen't sound like you have a full contact patch if the shoulders are wearing before the center
I also have mentioned previously that I would have a little concern using a Winter tire in warm temp's, on my skid pad I notice the difference between different rated tires (different compounds) and the wear patterns, going through basically the same routine daily...
> Max Rated Presure on Sidewall is 51psi

> The sides eventually wore down due to some mountain riding (eg Hard cornering) with a trailer; they hardly wear at all for the (straight) Freeway riding that I typically do.

> It's well known that this particular tire does not last long for extended mountain riding, due to the corners wearing out... It is better suited for straight roads.
 

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Ok, so then this is not an issue of a "defective tire" rather how a tire wears under non intended use.
It would be interesting to see how the tire wears & stands up @ 51 lb's, more pressure would take some strain off the shoulders :?

Ride Safe ...:action::action::waving:
 

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This might not help but I have gotten about 12k out of the Dunlap rear on my 1100. I run 40-42 lbs of air, I ride solo but I go about 320.It's almost down to the wear strip, so I doubt it will make it until summer.,,
 

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I don't care for dunlop ever since my 404 on my Suzuki Marauder got 5000 miles and at 5,000 miles it's a slick. Which means it was down to ware bars much sooner than 5,000 miles, maybe Dunlop deserves a second chance but that's the reason I would like to find another alternative that and money.
 

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I was curios about you car tire guys is there any modification to the rim that needs to be made. The reason I ask is I read just one article about sending the rim off and after $800+ it was ready for a car tire. I am still going MC tire regardless just curious. Thanks
 

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Someone made an easy $800.00 :cool:
 

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Mike217 wrote:
I was curios about you car tire guys is there any modification to the rim that needs to be made. The reason I ask is I read just one article about sending the rim off and after $800+ it was ready for a car tire. I am still going MC tire regardless just curious. Thanks
> No mod required for a 1500 rim, or any other rim that I've ever heard of, so long as it's the right size.

I have heard of people Widening the Rim, so as to attain a size compatible with available car tires. No change though, to the bead's mating surface.
 
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