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Discussion Starter #1
so here is the delemia i purchased a markland top box light bar
a trailer hitch, back rest also a lower saddle bag light bar
none of which came with instructions
i am also planning on replacing my dash lights would like to use led blue lights has any one done this and would you be able to show pics
would also like to confirm that the dash lights and all 194 wedge lights
any help would be greatfull
thanks mike c
 

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Welcome to the madness. Need to know location, what model of GW. Look on line for a service manual, answers a lot of questions. Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks rednaxs my location is hamilton I have the shop manual im working on 86 gl1200 and the after markets light bars will not be covered in the manual

Will probably end up winging it (lol) when it comes to put theses puppies on have not been able to get any info as of yet on line
where are you located
 

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I wouldsn'rt add to many lights to a 1200 wing unless it has an upgraded stator. They are known for bad stators and if it goes the motor has to be removed to replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I wouldsn'rt add to many lights to a 1200 wing unless it has an upgraded stator. They are known for bad stators and if it goes the motor has to be removed to replace it.
hi joe thanks for the response i know about the stator issue im changing all my lights to leds to try and take off the extra load and if the stator goes i will do a poor boy alternator conversion
if need be
do you have any info on how these light bars are attached
 

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02 GL1800 w/Auto Pilot
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Ummmmm, changing to LED lights will NOT lighten the load on a Stator.

They run at max for the RPM, the result is you will increase the current that the Regulator has to shunt to ground.

Not a good idea.
Reg/Rectifier is expensive
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks rednaxs my location is hamilton I have the shop manual im working on 86 gl1200 and the after markets light bars will not be covered in the manual

Will probably end up winging it (lol) when it comes to put theses puppies on have not been able to get any info as of yet on line
where are you located
Ummmmm, changing to LED lights will NOT lighten the load on a Stator.

They run at max for the RPM, the result is you will increase the current that the Regulator has to shunt to ground.

Not a good idea.
Reg/Rectifier is expensive
thanks AZ will take that into consideration not a hundred percent that i understand but i assume you mean i will burn out the regulator
planning on replacing it anyway lights are dimming down when i hit the breaks so i thing its already on the way out
 

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hi joe thanks for the response i know about the stator issue im changing all my lights to leds to try and take off the extra load and if the stator goes i will do a poor boy alternator conversion
if need be
do you have any info on how these light bars are attached
If you could get some pictures of the items that migh help someone that had those,my 85 ,I built the light bars and just looked for a hard point to mount them to and on mine I put the switch on the ground not the positive
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you could get some pictures of the items that migh help someone that had those,my 85 ,I built the light bars and just looked for a hard point to mount them to and on mine I put the switch on the ground not the positive
Here is the image of the lightbar and bracket.
 

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1993 GL1500 Aspy 1980 GL1100 STD
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The bulbs in that light bar, even if incandescent, draw so little current the bike won't even notice.....

The 4 cylinder 'Wings have enough alternator capability to run heated grips and gear down the road, as long as you switch them off in city traffic.
 

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The chrome piece Most likely bolt to saddle bag mount and the light bar bolt to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The chrome piece Most likely bolt to saddle bag mount and the light bar bolt to it.
yep thats my guess also just waiting for the right attitude to go out the the shed and look into it
never in the right mind this time of year but in summer all i want to do is ride
as for the lights in the bar Denver i agree but the bulbs are probably original so if im putting in new ones may as well go led
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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thanks AZ will take that into consideration not a hundred percent that i understand but i assume you mean i will burn out the regulator
planning on replacing it anyway lights are dimming down when i hit the breaks so i thing its already on the way out
Dimming does not indicate a faulty system. Possibly a minor ground issue, but nothing serious. And, as AZGL1800 says, LEDs won't help. Mostly they probably cause more problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Dimming does not indicate a faulty system. Possibly a minor ground issue, but nothing serious. And, as AZGL1800 says, LEDs won't help. Mostly they probably cause more problems.
thanks Dennis will look into the wiring another thing on my bucket list that i know i have to look at i plan on ripping out all the wiring i have done and do it right twisting and taping and tapping is not the way to go i know how to do it right but always in a hurry to get it done and get on the road lol
 

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02 GL1800 w/Auto Pilot
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thanks AZ will take that into consideration not a hundred percent that i understand but i assume you mean i will burn out the regulator
planning on replacing it anyway lights are dimming down when i hit the breaks so i thing its already on the way out
the lights dimming down when you hit the brakes is a normal condition.
You just added more load to the charging system and the Battery is going to have to supply the extra current that is needed. Does that bike have an AGM type battery in it, or is it still a WET cell battery?

If the tachometer is showing 2,500 rpm or less, it is not going to be able to keep up with the additional load of the Brake Lights.

you really really need to install a Voltmeter up somewhere so you can see in REAL TIME what the status of the Charging System is at any given time. That way you can get familiar with the RPM vs System Voltage and how happy it is ( figure of speech ). What is the condition of the 3 yellow wire coming from the Stator? Is the OEM plastic connector still on the wiring harness? If so, pull it apart and exam it for burned contacts. Most folks cut that out, and just solder the 3 yellow wires together, cover with shrink wrap to seal out water.

Been way too many years since I owned the 84 and 86 that we had, so don't remember the RPM numbers where full output occurs, but 3,500 rpm is a number that I do recall where the Stator is able to put out full current.
 

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Look at the alternator plugin and assure it it hard wired instead of a plug-in,it melts the plug.
Here is the image of the lightbar and bracket.
seems like I recall the front attaching to the rear crash bars too
 

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1993 GL1500 Aspy 1980 GL1100 STD
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When is the last time you actually noticed that when in your car stopped at a traffic light at night that all the lights brighten up slightly when you step on the gas? And that the all the lights dim/brighten slightly in rhythm with the turn signal?

Lower system voltage at idle is NORMAL for ALL vehicles.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
wow thanks guys for your info all of the above info you have given has already been addressed though and i have installed a volt meter
top voltage it puts out at 80 km and above is 12.4 volts max drops down to about 10 at idle sometimes hits 9 does leave me a little worried about the charging system
but it always starts as long as it has not sat for more than 2 weeks without going for a ride
as for the mounting of the light bar your are right on front mount attached to the crash bars
but the pic i posted is for the top box light rail i think the top box comes off then the u shaped bracket attaches to the top box mounting rails and then the bar attaches to that then box goes back on
thats how i in vision it but wont know until i go out and really start trying but thats not going to happen until i replace dash lights as i have the front all apart to get to them have to order the bulbs
and maybe a new radio 8 by 10 shed does not leave a lot of room to work on the bike to coin a phrase i should have bought a bigger boat (shed) lol
thanks again for your help and any further comments or info you might have will always be welcome and needed
 

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I agree, get a DVM or another Known Good voltmeter and double check the the meter on the bike is accurate.
What you are saying is 1.5 volts too low at a minimum.....

turning 3,500 RPM, the battery voltage should be at 13.6 if all is up to temperature, or 14.4 if the bike was just started and everything is cold/cool to ambient temps.
 
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