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Looking for some step by step instructions on draining the old fork oil from our forks and adding new. We have a 1978 GL1000 and I'm scared without directions my husband might really screw it up. Anyone with advice or step please let me know.
 

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Here's is a pic of the fork oil bleed screw. When you remove this, pump the forks up and down till all the oil has blown out. It will come out in
a stream so have something handy as a splash guard to catch it with and in. Once both are empty you remove the fork caps to re-fill the correct amount of oil based on the amount shown in the manuals. The cap is under pressure from the fork springs so be ready for it to try to pop off when the last thread backs out.


This pic also gives you the correct amount of oil to put back in. You can use ATF fluid or fork oil from the Honda dealer.
 

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Is this something that a first timer should try? or should he leave it up to our "mechanic" who is awesome. He use to be head mechanic and a major Harley dealer here.



By the way, anyone looking for bike work done in the Mansfield, Ohio area hit me up and I will get you the info on this guy...he is awesome and doesnt charge an "arm and leg" and he does what he says he is gonna do and I would trust him with my first born if that means anything.
 

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It's not all that hard to do even for a first timer but I suggest you use your better judgment to decide which way to go. I did mine at the same time I was installing Progressive springs in my forks and installing new fork seals.

What I posted doesn't tell all the instructions.

The best way to do this is with the bike on the center stand and the forks fully extended to relieve as much pressure from the springs off the fork caps.
 

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KEep your weight on what ever tool you plan on removing the caps with or they will hurt you or someone else in the vicinity. My first time the cap blew off hitsomething that soudned like metal and I found it 10 fet away under a car.

The second time around was not bad I kept a towel over the fork so if they were gonna fly off they would be restricted to where they would go. Fortunatly the pressure I applied was enough to keep iot in polace whirl removing.
Good luck.
My first refill was done with atf as suggested in manual . My last one was a fork seal replacement and I can see a small amount of fluid passing through the seals.
May go with a heavier weight oil.
 

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I am not sure if the springs are bad or what, because we did it last nite and nothing came flying up with any pressure. We took out the drain plug at bottom and then opened the top. Got about 4 oz of NASTY black tranny fluid out. Refilled it with 6 oz of fresh fluid and replaced the tops. Ole Man says it feels stiffer I guess a ride will tell the real truth.



Thanks for the instructions and its going to the shop to have carbs sinked and the fan fixed as it wont turn on at all anymore.
 

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When i changed out my springs, the OEM ones didn't jump out at me either.
 

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I recently had to put seals in my forks and went back with tractor hydralic fluid. Noticable difference in dive (less) and even stance (more stable). As far as spring pressure, it took two average size men pushing down and an old fart to turn the ratchet to get the caps back on. that was the first time, this last time I used one of those ratchet straps to pull spring and cap down cause I did not have anyone to help at the time and I just did not want to wait. Where there's a will, there's a way.
 
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