Loose steering head??

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You can also straddle your bike, put it in neutral and holding the front brake on rock the bike forward and back. If you feel or hear any play it could be in the steering head. In that case do the check by jacking up the front end. While you are rocking the bike have some one put their finger on the dust cover on top of the fork lowers, if your fork bushings are worn you'll feel a bit of play at that point. One other thing that might give you a click or free play sensation while rocking the bike is movement of the calipers. If you feel that use a couple of wood blocks to anchor the front wheel instead of the brakes. Then if you feel any play it has to be in the steering bearings or fork bushings an there shouldn't be any. The only real good way to check the head bearings would be to have the bike on the center stand and jack up the front of the engine. Then remove the front wheel and see of you can get any play by pulling on the fork lowers. Also turn the handle bars right and left and feel for any roughness or 'notchiness' in the movement. If you feel anything like that the bearings may need some attention. With the front wheel off you can test the bearing tension by using a fish weighing scale. Pull on the fork tube, with the front wheel removed, with the scale, it should take approximately 2 kilograms or 4lbs of pull to start the fork moving. If it takes much less pull it could mean your bearings need snugging up.

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Hi Jim, I have a 94 1500 Aspencade and recently found the same problem you are describing. I was installing a new front tire when I learned that it felt like I had a center detent as I moved the bars from left to right (with the front wheel off the ground) A little research suggested I had worn steering stem bearings or head bearings whichever you like to call them. I purchased a set of "All Balls" bearings and races for around $31 at a local Goldwing shop and installed them and now detent and shimmy are gone. You will need a special socket, either Honda tool or custom made to torque the steering stem bearing gland nut. I did research and found the dimensions needed to make my own and did just that. I paid around $13 for a deep 36mm socket and did a little grinding. The biggest pain is driving out the lower race. Again doing a few searches on here you can find how people have gotten them out. Good luck to you.

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Well, I got up early today, and stared at the steering head while sipping coffe, and thought," it can't be that hard". After a good study of the Clymers manual, and piecing together the out of sequence procedures that Clymers is famous for, I dove in. It was'nt bad at all. Took about 4 hours, with a trip to my neighbor for a 1 3/16" socket included. I pulled the top bearing to inspect it and then the lower. After a wash, I found nothing that looked like a typical worn bearing. The races looked good, and a good dial indicator showed no runout/oval. The adjusting nut was less than finger tight, so I torqued it down to 29 ft pounds,after repacking them, as the manual stated.We rode it for about 90 miles, and it has never felt that smooth! I got rid of some vibrations that shook the mirrors in the past, it doesn't wander anymore, and stopped pulling to the right! I suppose it is a lack of confidence that make this stuff so scarey to me. Oh and the "notchy" thing is gone. Thanks everyone. jimsjinx