[dentedsatelite]

imported post

I drove my bike to the local Hardware store yesterday without a problem. When I came out I had no power to anything on the bike. I checked all the fuses, jumped the battery and had no luck. I had to call a flatbed to get the bike back home. Some friends looked over the bike and no one could figure it out. The bike was stored in the garage overnight. This morning everything was normal and it started right up. I was wondering if anyone else ever had this problem and if they ever solved it. I'm afraid I may get stranded out farther from home next time. The battery is fine. we jumped the starter and it turned over. I still had no lights no horn no signals. I'm thinking ignition switch but it has never shown any signs of wear or any problems previously.


It's a 1981 gl 1100 interstate

 

[ccsailor]

imported post

Try the main fuse on right side ofbattery from your being intermittent Replace fuse with socket style holder and 30 amp bayonett fuse

sorry about garbled post before have to get a new keyboard pounding on this one wore it out I guess

 

[SilverDave]

imported post

..........the "fusible link"  or dogbone fuse to the side of the battery, over the starter solenoid   should be replaced/forums/images/emoticons/confused.gif, not because it blows out... but because it gets old and slightly oxidized... and develops hairline cracks... which cause EXACTLY the symptoms you had/forums/images/emoticons/mad.gif... as the crack opens slightly all current stops.., or worse ... only some of the current flows ... I once had ....no start, no lights, but power to the radio,and dash ... when it cools down, the crack closes/forums/images/emoticons/tongue.gif ... and it appears fixed...until the next time the link overheats... .........the solution is to get a large , waterproof spade type fuse holder, with the washer connections crimped on, and a 40 amp spade fuse... remove the terrible fusible link.. throw it away .. curses allowed/forums/images/emoticons/shock.gif, ............and using the same tiny screws... fasten the fuse holder into the circuit.   With a dremel ,you can carve a set of grooves into the lid of the link holder box, so you can close the lid, and tape it down, and squoosh the entire mess back into the original space.../forums/images/emoticons/smile.gif Silver/forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif

 

[dentedsatelite]

imported post

Thank you, that makes alot of sense. It was an unusually hot day yesterday and the night before we had intense thunderstorms. The bike may have gotten some moisture in that area. It was under a carport but not garaged. I will replace it Immediatley

 

[AZWinger]

imported post

When my fuse went,I was on the way home from work in about 115 degree heat! Fortunately, I had just bought the bike a couple of weeks before and saw the fuse while I wasgetting to knowmy new ride. So when all the electronics started flashing on and off (digital display) and the engine started shutting down then surging again, I had a good idea where to look! At first glance the fuse looked OK but when I touched it with my knife tip it crumbled into dust. I used a piece of wire to jump the fuse holder to get home. I have since then, replaced the fuse holder with the weather proof blade style and haven't had any more problems.

Bob :11grey:

 

[ccsailor]

imported post

This is exacly right except you should have a max of 30 amp fuse in there your stator WILL go south if you develop a short with a 40 amp in there

..........the "fusible link" or dogbone fuse to the side of the battery, over the starter solenoid should be replaced

, not because it blows out... but because it gets old and slightly oxidized... and develops hairline cracks... which cause EXACTLY the symptoms you had

... as the crack opens slightly all current stops.., or worse ... only some of the current flows... I once had ....no start, no lights, but power to the radio,and dash ... when it cools down, the crack closes

... and it appears fixed...until the next time the link overheats............the solution is to get a large , waterproof spade type fuse holder, with the washer connections crimped on, and a 40 amp spade fuse... remove the terrible fusible link.. throw it away .. curses allowed

, ............and using the same tiny screws... fasten the fuse holder into the circuit. With a dremel ,you can carve a set of grooves into the lid of the link holder box, so you can close the lid, and tape it down, and squoosh the entire mess back into the original space...

Silver

 

[Rod]

imported post

This is UN freakin believable I just went thru this... I have an 81 interstate and the same thing happened....... I had an electrical GENIUS help me and now I find he did a great job blowing my main 30 amp fuse. I found my spark units melted and thought this was the problem I went and found some new units ( no easy task unless you want to spend $400 ) . After installingan auto 30 amp fuse with it's own case and putting in the new spark units ureka it started........... But when I got new units from a used bike place he told me some melted units worked for years. SO I pluged those back in and bingo it ran fine. BUT I have to fiddle with the ignition to get power to the bike. SO I'm looking for an ignition switch before I put everything together again. So now I don't know if it's the switch,the fuse or what... but at least it's now working ---------- NOW for the stator on the 1984.........best o luck in the future...Rod :action:

 

[Kyle]

imported post

Iwas about to say.......sounds like an ingnition switch problem to me. They can play with your mind intermittently. Mine started out by my radio cutting in and out. Take out the barrel and run some test wires to get your lights and accessories all working. You'll probably find that is the problem.