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Got a SEi puter from EBay. Tried it. What a difference! Have 3 other LTD ecu's. They all did the same thing. Like too much advance at low rpm. I took off on first run, with the SEi ecu, and almost did a wheelie! The engine sounds better, too. Wasn't happy with the way it sounded mechanically. In the Interstate, it sounded awsome, but when coupled with the LTD hardware, it just was a disappointment, as I shared with Vic.I almost bought a new 05, but think I can hold off for now. I believe he indicated that it was spark related, and he was right! Thanks, Vic. The SEi ecu has a diff. part no, must be the way it's programmed. I sure wish I could find a way to acess these things.Had to be done pre-windows, and almost pre-DOS. I wonder how they did it? With Unix? Any ideas? Not finding anything on the net. There's a place in UK that offers a chip for 1200, might e-mail them.
 

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what is it you are looking 4 i dont quite undrestand are u looking 4 a good ecu or a way to program them ......
 

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Sounds like he'd like to make the LTD ECU's perform like the SEi ECU. Simple as that!

Okay, maybe not so simple.

Raymond
 

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Hi, all. I'm thinking of looking into a way to laptop these ecu's. There must be a way. It was programmed at the factory, somehow. Haven't found the way they do it. Honda is tight lipped about it. I don't believe they are tuned that well. Any ecu experts out there?
 

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What you will more than likely have to do is rip the cover off one of the ECU and have a look. If there is a ROM, PROM, Flash ROM or EPROM (there more than likely be just one of them), the ROM will have to come out and be read into a ROM burner and then someone with lots of programming knowledge will have to decipher it's program structure. Then you can modify the program, burn it into a new ROM and try it. That's all the performance chip makers have done. It's called reverse engineering. Take something apart and find out what makes it work. Then try to decipher the code.

And if you have a good code chip from a SEi, you could compare the two. If the hardware is significantly different, the codes may be entirely different, and of no use as far as a straight swap. But you could get a look at the parameters and see where the differences are.

Raymond
 

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Very good points, indeed. There's 2 rom chips. Actually eprom chips, with the windows. Unfortunately, they're soldered in. So that leads me to think they were flashed in place. Whatcha think?
 

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Highly doubtful they were flashed in place. They obviously figured they had it right and would not need to change the ROMs, soldering them into place like that. I have all the desoldering equipment, and it'd be easy to unsolder. One other thing, is sockets may not stand the test of time with a bike's vibration, etc...

Apple Computer had ROM SIMMs on some of the early Macs, to make upgrades easier. Did they ever make an upgrade, NO... Fixed the few bugs with software.

You got a small start, now all you need to do is find someone that can decipher the code. What size EPROM are those? 24 or 28 pin?

Raymond
 

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Raymond. These are 24 pin. Date code 8430 # MBM2732A Stand alone letter F, witha bar across top, and bottom. Japan Would that be Fairchild? The prom area can accomodate 28 pin, it appears
 

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Yes, that's Fairchild. A 2732 is a 4K x 8 bit EPROM. (4k times 8 = 32) Is how they numbered the old ROMs. So you only have 4,000 bits of code in each ROM. I used to have a number of EPROM readers and burners back in the 80's but none since. Haven't needed one that much! I do still have some blank EPROMs somewhere in the garage. From 2708 to 271024.

Raymond
 

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Howdy, Raymond. Sounds like you know a lot about this stuff. If I could just find a way to fetch the code. Doesn't the code eventually die, with time? I have 5 of these ecu's, and it seems like a shame that they could die just laying around. Any ideas? Thanks
 

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Define time... There's Billions of EPROMs out there that still have their code. But I don't think they'll last forever, but certainly they are more than likely still good. It's not the ROM that are probably bad, there should be lots more support chips, transistors, resistors, capacitors that can go bad with those things.

On something like what you got, first I would check for any cold solder joints, and then start looking at the electrolytic capacitors. They are composed of layers of foil and paper drenched in an oil. After time, the oil leaks out, boils off, or the paper or foil breaks down. Most caps have a short life span of 10-25 years. Sometimes more or less, of course. Heat is a big killer. Look for puffed up tops on the caps, or puffed bottom. A sure sign! An electrolytic cap is an aluminum can with leads coming out of the bottom, or one out of each end. No telling what color it is, but the can is almost always shrinkwrapped in plastic, with the top still aluminum color.

I used to repair computers and the like for 20 years or so, but I am still in the electronics field, just in a different way. Still have all my tools of course!

Raymond
 

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Raymond. I have one "dud" ecu, and I pulled the caps, and subbed them, to no avail. It'll run with this ecu, but very badly. I did find a lot of bad solder joints, including the small cracks one sees from various stresses, re-soldered them, no help. I'm just wondering if it lost it's code. Don't know how to find out. BTW, the 5v. ref is good. What's wierd, after it boots up, there's no leds lit up, so all inputs must be functioning. The outputs are good, too. Subbed them from another unit. Still no-go. Bout to give up, and shoehorn a Megasquirt into this case, or maybe a MoTec ecu. Bout the best there is, and laptop compatible, in a window. Thanks for all your input so far, it's most appreciated.
 

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Keep in mind, I have never seen the insides of an ECU, so I am flying blind here. No, the ROMs should be good. Maybe one day I can take a peek inside.

Sounds like you found some issues, and maybe it fixes or ot two of them. Maybe not!

Best way to test it out is a test bed setup on a bench. With all the inputs and outputs all monitored and under load. Too much trouble to fix a couple of them.

I used to have test beds set up all the time, but then I was repairing hundreds of printer boards, drive controllers, floppy drives, etc... Usually 20-40 at a time.

Raymond
 
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