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sometime back i got a tour luggage rack .i talked to some of you on here as to what brand would be the best..that helped a lot...i have been holding off putting it on because of not being sure if i can do it with out cracking the trunck lid..i talked to some one today that said to use a dremel drill bit that comes with fine oil to drill any thing very thin or that mite chip.do any of you know how to do it or have heard of the bit with oil .. i saw there is risers to go under to get it up higher .i have the star washers for it but dont know if the risers are a good idea or not...thanks for any help.........rich
 

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Just put some masking tape down then use a high speed drill and drill very slowly with a very sharp bit. You'll be okay.
 

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CBH wrote:
Just put some masking tape down then use a high speed drill and drill very slowly with a very sharp bit. You'll be okay.
+1 on the tape and drill

Star washers will get you by.
Risers have a bigger foot under them and will spread any weight further and will get the rack up higher to be able to clean under the rack easier.
Your choice

Get some of those lid supports that were mentioned too.
http://rudysproducts.com/Store/TL5.html
 

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newday777 wrote:
CBH wrote:
Just put some masking tape down then use a high speed drill and drill very slowly with a very sharp bit. You'll be okay.
+1 on the tape and drill

Star washers will get you by.
Risers have a bigger foot under them and will spread any weight further and will get the rack up higher to be able to clean under the rack easier.
Your choice

Get some of those lid supports that were mentioned too.
http://rudysproducts.com/Store/TL5.html

Exactly how I did mine. Works like a charm.

I didn't put the risers on mine the first year I had it. Then I got them and am very pleased. So I would highly recommend having them right from the start, to save you the hassle of redoing the job.

And I found out the hard way,,,,,,,,, that the lid supports are a MUST!!!!
 

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Personally, I would not use star washers. The teeth will dig into the plastic.

I use large fender washers, then a star or lock washer between that and the lock nut.

Top side of the trunk, the bigger a foot print you can get, the better off you are.

I used to carry luggage on the top of my 94's rack. Broke the trunk lid. No more, just very light weight stuff there now. Even with the Kury big foot print risers.
 

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I haul my sleeping bag in a trunk lid bag. Great place for it.
 

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Masking tape-small drill bit for pilot holes-drill finish size holes.
Rack risers are a must for ease of cleaning under the rack.
Watch how much weight you put on it!!!!
Make absolutely sure the rack sits on the lid on all 4 legs w/no rocking before you bolt that rack on!!!!!!! If it rocks-take that one back-it's bent and will induce stress in the lid if you bolt it on!!!!!!
Rubber spacers under the star washers. Large fender washers on the inside of the lid.
 

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Just another ORF!
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1) -Place Masking Tape on trunk lid in the area where the trunk mounting points will be
2) -Position trunk rack on lid til you are satisfied of it's location and then trace around mounting points with a sharpie/ball point pen
3) -Drill holes slightly over-sized to accommodate some 'wriggle room' and alleviate any stress from being too tight
4) -Add the trunk risers after 1st drilling them out to fit longer 6mm bolts(the risers are for the 1800s and come with smaller bolts)
5) -Trial fit rack.
6) -Install Rudy's Trunk Lid/Rack Reinforcement Panel Kit (best investment to prevent trunk lid cracking, if holes are drilled to correct size/placement)
7) -Re-drill mounting holes through the reinforcement panels
8) -Reinstall rack risers and trunk rack and tighten so it is just snug. Do not over tighten mounting bolts
9) -Enjoy




I can't stress enough for those of you with trunkracks on your 1500, that eventually your lid will develop cracks if you use your trunk rack at all, as the trunk lids on the 1500s are so thin/flimsy. :X

The best preventative product to greatly reduce/eliminate the chances of this happening, is to purchase/install one of Rudy's Trunk Lid/Rack Reinforcement Panel Kits before you crack your lid. Works great after you crack your lid as well (like mine) but that's like closing the barn door after the cows have run off. Sooner, or later, your trunk lid will develop acrack(s), due to 'plastic fatigue, caused fromthe lid flexing.
 

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I would go with Dusty's suggestion but I would go a step or 2 further.

After marking where the holes will be, drill 1 hole. Set the rack in place and put that 1 bolt in loosely, double check that the other marks still line up as you want them to. Do this with the entire rack; drill 1 hole, put rack on to check alignment then remove the rack and drill the next hole. Nothing worse than finding out something shifted on you after all the holes are drilled.

Mine has rubber washers and body washers on the inside of the trunk lid and ruber washers on the top side as well. No cracks in mine but the only time I use it is to set stuff on while geting geared up or removing our gear while stopped.
 

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I do not have a trunk rack and as my wife doesn't ride have never needed one. I also share concerns about the ability of the plastic lid to support much. In the summer, I often ride my wing to professional conferences hosted at swanky downtown hotels around Texas. (The bike is so much easier to park... and a lot of these hotels have special places where the valets can watch them.) In these cases I find that having a hitch rack serves me better. I can load all sorts of things into the cooler, get to where I am going, un-pack and then I have the cooler. Which is really useful as a... cooler!

I like the idea of the weight being lower on the bike. And a hitch rack isnlt a permanent commitment.
 

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I also had plenty of rubber washers on mine, but it still cracked. Mind you, I do use my rack when touring.

Here's how I had mine fitted (to no avail) ...











I didn't have all that much weight on the rack when I hit a good sized bump and cracked the lid. I had a small soft sided cooler with 3 plastic bottles with frozen water in them, that totalled just over a gallon) that weighed in total 12 -13lbs. :?

If you take a look at Rudy's page where he's offering the reinforcement kit for sale he has a picture of my cracked lid.

By taking a close look at the picture, you'll see that the lid didn't crack at/from the mounting hole, but rather from repeated flexing of the rather thin/flimsylid (plastic fatigue)by the base of the rack risers. ....







When you install Rudy's 1/4" thickreinforcement panels, they add a very substantial amount of support to the underside of thelid, which pretty well eliminates the flexing!





The flexing is caused not only fromthe static load you have placed/fastened to the rack, but is also caused when using the rack to open/close the lid.

The $40 he charges for these reinforcement kits is very cheap insurance against this happening, especially when you consider the heartbreak/appearance/workinvolved once they do crack! IMHO! :baffling:




Dusty ..... been there, done that. I just wished he had them available before mine cracked. :shakehead:
 

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I wish I knew of "Rudy's Panels" also. I had don't the repair the hard way by molding the panels out of ABS pipe. Then I discovered Rudy's panels :sadguy:.

It really isn't a matter of "IF" the trunk lid cracks,,,,, it's a matter of "WHEN" it will crack.

Dusty and I were touring together on our way to NASSIR-4. We were having a great time crossing ND on Route-2 and thats where an "invisible" dip in the road caused mine to crack. I had to finish the trip with it like that. It was later after I had gotten home and Dusty continued his 21,000 mile adventure, that he had also cracked his lid.

Like I said,,,,,,,,,,, just a matter of "WHEN" :coollep:
 

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i would like to thank every one that helped me out on what to do. the pic were great an a real help.that is what is so great about this site .so much help when you need it..happy new year to every one..rich :bowing:
 
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