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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All

  • It's been a loooong time since I introduced myself. Been busy with an 86 928, Jaguar XKR that went for a swim in Texas, and an XJS that I've been getting ready for the road - for like a million years.

  • I think I'm at the point of being able to start messing around with a 1986 Honda Goldwing gl1200, 26k, that's been sitting for years. I want to and will strip it down to bare basics and make some sort of racer. Am not clear on that vision, yet... As of now it runs, cools, idles sweetly - all plastic has been removed.

  • I have been watching vids and reading about the M-Unit that will serve as my basis for wiring. Lights, horn, key etc are not such a worry with the M-Unit. BUT,,, and there's always a but,,, in all you all's experience (deep bow) are there things I need to know or be thinking about when it comes to ignition and ignition systems - charging - starter relay/solenoid - stator - rectifier/regulator,,,, or is it all pretty much straight forward? Will the M-Unit work predictably with the Goldwing charging and base of it's electrical system?

  • I have a lot to learn from you all if you'll teach and this will be the beginning of a long (slow) road for me with this thing. I really really appreciate any and all guidance offered up.

  • Thanks Much
 

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I never heard of an M-unit before, looks like a relay control box more or less. You can make the charging system stand alone except for 1 switched wire so it's not a problem. The rest will take some figuring out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just remember the charging runs flat out with a "shunt" to dump excess to ground the m unit wont do that
Hey Bryan, Thanks Man...

Can you help me out with the shunt idea? From what I understand so far, the M-Unit contraption,,, or something similar,,, most deals with switched controls and such... When you say dumping excess,,, what's that referring to? Excess AC charge from the stator set up?
 

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OK i will try but if you have no electronic knowledge i strongly advise you leave everthing standard.

The generataor is a 3 phase AC generator i.e. 3 seperate coils each delivering ac voltage.
This ac voltage goes up the higher the revs go.
The rectifier converts the 3 phase ac to a single dc output to feed the lights etc and charge the battery, the only thing stopping the dc voltage climbing higher and higher is the battery BUT any more than 14 volt(ish) will destroy the battery.
To REGULATE the voltage to a maximumyou have, inside the voltage regulator unit, a circuit controlled by a zener diode which does not pass any current until it gets to a "set point" in this case normaly 14.2 volts and then it lets current through to ground or "Shunts" the power to ground.

If you look under the headlamp of a 70's Brit bike you will find a big finned heatsink with "thing" screwed into it and a heavy wire to the top--- a zener diode.

This is one reason that the early GL bikes wear out generators as they are working flat out all the time getting hot on the back of a hot engine.

If that does not make sense DO NOT fit the M unit and leave everyhing as Honda designed it.
 

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You will have to leave the charging system as is, the only thing you will do is provide a switched power wire to the black wire on the regulator.
 

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IMO,

that thing is a joke. almost $400 to mess up the original Honda wiring?
No Thanks.

IF, one has the electrical / electronics background, and wants to "lockup the bike" from starting, it can be used, IMO, it would be a hell of a lot simpler to use a hidden toggle switch to accomplish the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK i will try but if you have no electronic knowledge i strongly advise you leave everthing standard.

The generataor is a 3 phase AC generator i.e. 3 seperate coils each delivering ac voltage.
This ac voltage goes up the higher the revs go.
The rectifier converts the 3 phase ac to a single dc output to feed the lights etc and charge the battery, the only thing stopping the dc voltage climbing higher and higher is the battery BUT any more than 14 volt(ish) will destroy the battery.
To REGULATE the voltage to a maximumyou have, inside the voltage regulator unit, a circuit controlled by a zener diode which does not pass any current until it gets to a "set point" in this case normaly 14.2 volts and then it lets current through to ground or "Shunts" the power to ground.

If you look under the headlamp of a 70's Brit bike you will find a big finned heatsink with "thing" screwed into it and a heavy wire to the top--- a zener diode.

This is one reason that the early GL bikes wear out generators as they are working flat out all the time getting hot on the back of a hot engine.

If that does not make sense DO NOT fit the M unit and leave everyhing as Honda designed it.
Well,,, that's not so complicated... Thanks very much... Most everything with that part of the Electrical system is going to be staying the same anyways so no real need. I wouldn't be running that kind of power thruthe M-Unit at all. It runs on the post reg/ rec DC voltage.
 
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