[hitechluddite]

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To help make the wife happy, and keep mefrom taking out another telephone pole!:shock:

I am going to install a kill switch to the sidestand. My Idea is to run a wire from the power line on the neutral light to a relay whichthe signal from the off/onswitch will berouted through in series with a switch I will mount on the frame for the sidestand to contact. That way when the relay loses power the loop to the runswitch will be broken. The problem is the relay will be energized whenever the bike is running. Not a good long term plan. Anybody got any ideas for making this work so that the relay is only energized when the system is in a no run mode?

I'll be in communicado until friday, gotta go to work!

 

[AZWinger]

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hitechluddite,

I think I would use a warning light instead of the kill circuit. Hook up aswitch that activates (closes)a light when the side stand is down, and turns it off when (opens) in the up position. Mount a light in an obvious location where it is easily seen when illuminated.

There might be times you want to run the engine without having to sit on it or put it on the center stand.

Bob

 

[RedWinger]

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[Goldwinger1984]

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hitechluddite, did you know that the rubber (if in good condition) is supposed to kick the sidestand up if you left it down. Check to see if it is in the correct position and is not worn past the wear line molded into the rubber.

I would tend to not want to kill the engine with the side stand because if you accidentally did not pull it up all the way it could spring back down killing the engine when you may need it most.

The light is an excellent suggestion and have your wife be on the lookout for the light also if you go that way.

Vic

 

[axelwik]

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The first thing many people do when buying a bike equipped with a sidestand kill switch, is disable it. I think the light is a great idea.

A big, fat, bright10mm LED (make sure you use a dropping resistor) is what I'd use.

 

[Brojees]

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I share the problem as I am sure we all do, but the idea of a Kill Switch, (Other than for Redwing!!), is in my opinion a cure far worse than the illness it would resolve.



First is the location, that area is highly open to moisture. Second is the actual mounting which must be firm and positive if it is to function and third is my feet!!



I don't know if anyothers have noticed, but as I wiggle my feet around on my floorboards, I frequently and inadvertently hit something yeilding with my left heel. Lo and behold!! It is the sidestand. Now imagine this....You are cruising along leaned back into the seat and feet on the pegs, suddenly you see something that means you need to wake up and drive your machine...YOU SNAP YOUR FEET BACK WHERE THEY BELONG......ASSUME YOUR BEST RIDING STANCE!!!!... PREPARE TO TAKE EVASIVE ACTION!!! and kick the sidestand with your heel, killing the machine when you need it most!!



No, I believe a kill switch on the sidestand is a bad idea. But I do think we need MUSIc CLIPS ON THIS FORUM to increase the dramatic effect of our posts!!!!

 

[JOHNO]

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I once had a small Kawasaki (sin) the engine would run with the sidestand down, butas soon as the clutch leaver was pulled in, the side stand would swing up and smack me in the shin this was cable operated and maybe similar to what your after.

Johno

 

[Dave Campbell]

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Yeah the rubber is "supposed" to flip it back up, but it only works "sometimes." This is a tough thing to design because there is no good place to mount a switch, then it must be an industrial grade water proof switch. I looked at doing this and gave up in favor of simply being more cautious.

 

[Goldwinger1984]

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hitechluddite, if you like you can contact me directly to discuss the switch mounting.

I have some ideas that may help you get this switch installed properly.

[email protected]

Vic

 

[JDC]

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hitechluddite wrote:

I am going to install a kill switch to the sidestand. My Idea is to run a wire from the power line on the neutral light to a relay whichthe signal from the off/onswitch will berouted through in series with a switch I will mount on the frame for the sidestand to contact. That way when the relay loses power the loop to the runswitch will be broken. The problem is the relay will be energized whenever the bike is running. Not a good long term plan. Anybody got any ideas for making this work so that the relay is only energized when the system is in a no run mode?

Hitechluddite, I think some of the suggestions above on NOT actually killing the engine are valid, as warm-up & idle with the stand down would be impossible..



While I haven’t personally had a problem of riding off with the side stand down if I were to build one for myself or friend it would consist of an early Honda Wing rear brake light switch (those can be remotely mounted & are somewhat weather proof),, a light weight long spring running from the side stand to the remotely mounted (read- ‘high mounted’) brake light switch,, a small weather proof relay that would sound the bike’s horn with closed contacts & also a relay input from the trans neutral switch (that way the engine could remain running in neutral with the side stand down)..



Using the above criteria the engine could be run & idle while the bike is on the side stand & it would be pretty difficult to drive the bike away with side stand down as the horn would be blowing the entire time when it was put in gear..



JDC

 

[Brojees]

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You know the more I think of this I can dream of a few very elegant solutions, espcially liked the idea of an alarm using a up position switch on the side stand in conjunction with the neutral light being off. But I too have had the same problem, I dare say we all have. And now I no longer seem to have the problem.

Why, well I started thinking about it real seriously after I decided polevaulting on a Goldwing will probably never be an Olympic event. Having come to that realization, I started attending to my sidestand and now each time is I start out, I glance down and see the wee chrome extender nestled just aft of me left floorboard. And I know if I can see the extender, the stand is up and no Olympic polevaults when I lean to the left.

I guess for that reason I would say, give it a wee but of time and see if your problem simply does not resolve itself.

Then you can work on remembering to put it down when you park because I guarantee you the wee woman is not going to like that show either!!! (Mine didn't!!)

 

[Goldwinger1984]

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I guess I shouldn't mention to your wife that training wheels are available for Gold Wings. LOL

Don't be embarrased Brojees, a Gold Wing is a lot of bike to handle if you're not accustomed to it, but, hopefully, this will be the most serious mistake you'll ever make on your Gold Wing.

Also, get in touch with a local G.W.R.R.A. chapter and enquire about Gold Wing driving classes and seminars. They can be a big help for beginners and experienced alike.

Vic

 

[Black Bart]

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Brojees wrote:

Then you can work on remembering to put it down when you park because I guarantee you the wee woman is not going to like that show either!!! (Mine didn't!!)

I get a funny whining noise from the back every time I go over 80.....and an unbearable screeching at 85. :action:

I think the only real solution to making a Goldwing idiot proof is to remove the rider......:goofygrin:

BB

 

[Goldwinger1984]

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Bart, I get very similar, intermittent, symptoms as your's at those speeds and I also get a deep thumping on my back as well.



Figured out that the problem only occurs when my better half is riding with me.

Vic

 

[Brojees]

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Myself as well!! And a pinching sensation on my side!!

Maybe it is a factory defect?

 

[Goldwinger1984]

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I wouldn't want to be the one to tell them that Brojees. LOL

Vic

 

[philcsand]

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Here's an Idea... Instead of using a real switch, try a magnetic switch, the kind used in home security systems. It consists of a magnet half, and a reed switch. When the magnet is next to the switch, it closes the reed, and current can flow. As the magnet moves away, the reed opens, and current flow is interrupted. These are for signal only, and not for load applications (And LED should be fine though). If you could position it so that the magnet and switch are close when the stand is down, you could just run an LED right off of it.Put a 470 Ohm resistor in series with your LED, and it should knock the current down to where you want the LED running at.



I would second the notion that a kill is a BAD idea.

 

[Goldwinger]

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I retrofitted a side stand switch from a 1500 to my 1200 Had to drill a small hole in the pivot, reverse the spring and modify that bolt a bit. otherwise it worked like a charm for about 6 years till I sold the bike. I had it hooked to a big light on the dash, and it shut off the headlight when it was in the down position to try and reduce the load on the electrical system at idle.

 

[Dave Campbell]

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philcsand wrote:

, try a magnetic switch, the kind used in home security systems. It consists of a magnet half, and a reed switch.

 

I would second the notion that a kill is a BAD idea.

 

Yes, bad idea - safety problem unless you can gurantee the switch wont break open on highway. Worse - a bouncing switch will make the ignition system misfire and you wont be able to find it.

Vibration will ruin the reed switch quickly, they are very fragile plus they are very sensitive to magnet position.

Id try a cable on the kickstand over to a switch lever. Then there is no alignment on the kickstand.

 

[hitechluddite]

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Thanks for all the responses guys! I think a light may be the ticket. I am thinking about using a proximity switch. We use them in our steel mill equipment and the are subjected to vibration, moisture, heat you name and they last nearly 10 years on average. Ours all use 24VDC but I should be able to find a 12VDC. Bet the cost a pretty penny.... I like the idea of the retrofitted 1500 switch, is New Market Ont anywhere near Fergus?