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Thought we had our bike running and ready to go. Went and had carbs synced hoping it would improve the gas mileage. well it didnt. Now when we start from a complete stop like a stop sign or signal, the bike is doing a "glugging" (what I like to call it). It hesitates and acts like it wants to stall out when starting.



Any suggestions on where to start?
 

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Flooding carbs..bad float needle, leaking o rings etc. floats set wrong..note the GL's like a higher rev start..or they will lug...

Take the air filter off and look into the plenum ..any gas sitting in there??? shouldn't be
 

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Did this problem occur before the sync also or just after. Youcan go to this site for tips ongl1000 carb problems. Lookunder tech tips.

http://www.randakks.com
 

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This did it before we had the carbs synced as well. also our gas mileage is TERRIBLE lucky to get 80 miles on a tank before we have to kick to reserve.
 

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There is something seriously wrong with a 1000 that will only go 80 miles on a tank of gas. :shock::shock::shock::shock:

You say you got your carbs synchd, How long since they were rebuilt completely? What do your plugs look like? exhaust pipes full of black soot? Still running points? How long since they were inspected/ adjusted/ replaced? same for timing? Is it even firing on all 4?

Sorry gifusion but the Air cut off valve has exactly zero to do with what he is describing. The Air cut off valve's ONLY purpose is to enrich the idle circuits during periods of high Vacuum and low fuel flow (ie. decelerating) to prevent backfiring. It has nothing to do with fuel economy or normal idle or acceleration.
 

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Whiskerfish wrote:
There is something seriously wrong with a 1000 that will only go 80 miles on a tank of gas. :shock::shock::shock::shock:

You say you got your carbs synchd, How long since they were rebuilt completely? What do your plugs look like? exhaust pipes full of black soot? Still running points? How long since they were inspected/ adjusted/ replaced? same for timing? Is it even firing on all 4?
the carbs were synced like 2 weeks ago, carbs rebuilt...couldnt tell ya, we talked with a friend today and hesaid he could take them off, clean and rebuild them for us. Plugs we put in new about a month ago, and the exhaust does on the right side put out someblack crap, noticed when it was idling sitting with the pipe on the curb. But its on the right side, left doesnt do it at all. Timing belt I couldnt tell ya either when it was done, and yes it is firing on all 4.
Will try the carb rebuild and cleaning and hopefully it gets better, hell it cant get any worse than 80 miles to a TANK OFGAS.:gunhead:
 

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The gl1000 has main jets that are held in the carb body by O rings and pressure from the float chamber cover. They are not threaded into the carbs as in most motorcycles. If those O rings have deteriorated, as they did on my previous bike, the gas gets sucked around the main jet as well as thru it, and your mileage pretty well hits the gutter. If this is the case, just replace the O rings, 1 per jet. You may have to shop around to find the right size rings, cause I don't think Honda stocks them anymore.
 

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When my Carbs were bad out of Synch and I would take off with moderate throttle and when I got up to speed and dropped the hammer it would stumble until I backed off some of the throttle and it caught up.
 

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You may not have a choice, since the correct O rings are hard to find by themselves. Sometimes they can be picked up at a place that has a large selection in stock, but they are an odd size. However, I believe they do come as an item in the carb rebuilt kit from Honda.
 

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Unless your friend is an experienced GL Mechanic I would not let him touch your carbs. These carbs are not for the amateur unless you are willing to put in a lot of effort. When completely disassembled there are almost 300 parts in the4 carbs.My first set of GL1000 carbs took me probably 14 hours to disassemble clean and reassemble. They are not like aautomobile carb or even many other bike carbs. If you can afford it send them to Pistol Pete http://www.oldwings.com/and there will be no questions about the quality of the job. If you want to tackle it yourself spend the money and buyRandakks kit and his video on the rebuilding process. For a first timerthe Video is invaluable and his rebuild kit has everything you need and nothing you don't. It is simply the best on the market built from the highest quality materials. http://www.randakks.com/Video%20Products.htm
 

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Randakk's carb kit has everything but the float valves. Those you need to get from Honda, most of the aftemarket float and needle sets leak.
 

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The rubber tip on the float valves is just like any other piece of rubber in your carbs and is 25+ years old. Also the spring that activates the valve is old. New valves and seatsare expensive, from Honda they are @25 each x 4 carbs. Aftermarket valves are available cheaper but as Exavid mentioned are not worth the savings as they have a poor performance history. I have rebuilt some carbs and they are still on the road with the original OEM valves and seats and others have required replacement. If you experience flooding in the plenum then defective or tired valves are in the top 2 reasons. Spending the extra $100 while doing a rebuild is purely a gamble. I as a general rule do not replace them until they fail but I am doing my own maintenance and not having to pay someone else to go back in if they leak afterwards.
 

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You can check the float valves with a magnifying glass and see what condition the tips are in. If they are worn, with a grove then I'd replace them. One thing about the old O rings in the carb. As long as they are not disturbed they would still work. With age they tend to get welded in place with old gas etc. If you've taken one of these apart thats been sitting for a long time, the jets can be tough to get out. There's some good how to's on this site & the nakedgoldwing site covering carbs. Biggest thing is to be patient & organized & keep each carbs parts together, especially the slide & caps. Setting float levels properly is one of the most critical aspects, next to clean, of these carbs.
 

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cycleman wrote:
Biggest thing is to be patient & organized & keep each carbs parts together, especially the slide & caps. Setting float levels properly is one of the most critical aspects, next to clean, of these carbs.
That and be aware that every manual out there including the Honda Shop Manual has errors in their jet sizes and locations.
 

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Just talked to our mechanic and he said not to buy a kit unless it has the needle sets already in it. Anyone have an idea where I can get that entire set including the needle set with the rebuild kit?



I am soooo confused. The mechanic said the needle sets are the most important cause of the age of the bike...I really dont know what to get or where to even start now. I was ready to order the kit from Randakka but when ya'll talked about needle sets and float thingy which the kit didnt include I got even more lost.
 

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They are always on eBay..from $60 for 4 to $200 for 4 the only one I would stay away from is Saber Cycle very poor customer service if you have a problem.

Most of the kits are not the same..they include different things so you have to look carefully at the pictures and only one or two include the screen/basket that goes on the float seat which is often toast.

Usually you can clean all the jets so don't need new ones..but all the rubber bits should be replaced, the air mix screw often gets stuck and breaks off when you try to get it out so get a kit that includes that.

Randalls kit is the best for all the rubber parts he uses the best materials but it only includes the rubber stuff and a filter..
 
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