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1982 GL1100I - 47,000 miles, only 1,000 since bringing her back to life (carbs and everything else)

I was headed into school going about 65 when it felt like I was running out of gas. I checked the petcock and it was on. The gauge read a little above reserve. I switched it to reserve, but no help. Choking (only for a moment) did not help either. I cut to an exit as I was quickly loosing more power. When I got off, the engine died whenever I let it idle. The engine sounds fine running at 2k rpm. However, it is so weak that I have to ride the clutch in first gear at 4k rpm to get it to creep along. Any less and the engine dies. It takes a while to get up to 25 mph. Top seems to be 45. To reach these speeds requires the throttle all the way open. I don't think there has been an overheating issue. The engine stayed cool enough (below half of the gauge) that the radiator fan never kicked on.

I am stuck at school with the goldwing parked in covered parking. I am afraid of taking it the 8 miles home. The only issue I noticed before I had to get into the office was that the fuel filter was orange. I changed the filter a little over 1000 miles ago, but the bike had sat for a long time. I seem to be continuing to lose power.

Could it be that the fuel filter is plugged? I have an extra at home.

Is there anything else I can check/do in the parking lot?

What are all the possibilities you can think of?

Trent
 

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fixinThe82 wrote:
1982 GL1100I - 47,000 miles, only 1,000 since bringing her back to life (carbs and everything else)

I was headed into school going about 65 when it felt like I was running out of gas. I checked the petcock and it was on. The gauge read a little above reserve. I switched it to reserve, but no help. Choking (only for a moment) did not help either. I cut to an exit as I was quickly loosing more power. When I got off, the engine died whenever I let it idle. The engine sounds fine running at 2k rpm. However, it is so weak that I have to ride the clutch in first gear at 4k rpm to get it to creep along. Any less and the engine dies. It takes a while to get up to 25 mph. Top seems to be 45. To reach these speeds requires the throttle all the way open. I don't think there has been an overheating issue. The engine stayed cool enough (below half of the gauge) that the radiator fan never kicked on.

I am stuck at school with the goldwing parked in covered parking. I am afraid of taking it the 8 miles home. The only issue I noticed before I had to get into the office was that the fuel filter was orange. I changed the filter a little over 1000 miles ago, but the bike had sat for a long time. I seem to be continuing to lose power.

Could it be that the fuel filter is plugged? I have an extra at home.

Is there anything else I can check/do in the parking lot?

What are all the possibilities you can think of?

Trent
What you're describing here has me thinking that maybe some kind of vermin got to building a nest(s?) in the exhaust or airbox.

If you can find a longer piece of fairly stiff wire, bend a hook in the end and poke it into the muffler holes, and pull the air filter to inspect for damage.

If the fuel filter is one you can see thru, you should be able to see any debris that is bad enough to clog it. If you can get someone to bring your spare to you, change it. If the gas cap isn't breathing properly, it can cause similar symptoms as yours. Try starting it with the cap loose.

From here, if the above doesn't help, I'm thinking I would start looking for vacuum line problems. Good Luck...:waving:
 

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I also changed the air filter when I did the work about 1000 miles ago. We have not had problems with dusty air or vermin since I moved here. However, this is the first time I had the bike out in the last two weeks (went to scout camp last week). Maybe something got in there.

I will poke around. Thanks Mike.

The only vacuum tube I can think of goes from the crank case to the rear right side carburetor. Is that right?
 

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fixinThe82 wrote:
I will check it. How did you come to that conclusion?
If the main fuse breaks or blows, the battery is no longer connected to anything else. That means the only thing powering the bike (i.e. spark plugs, most importantly) is the stator. The stator does not put out enough power at lower RPM's to run the bike, headlight, taillight, etc. all at the same time, so the bike stumbles and feels like it is running out of gas. When you rev it up to higher RPM's, it generates more power, and the bike will run better. You will also not be able to start the bike if it is shut off (obviously).

I came to this conclusion because it happened to my 1100, and that's what it ended up being. :)

When mine went, the fuse was cracked - so if I let the bike cool off, it would be fine, but as soon as it got warm, it would start stumbling again. When I touched the fuse, it crumbled into pieces.

Even if it's not the fuse, and if the original dogbone fuse is still there, I'd recommend replacing it with a normal blade fuse holder and a 30 amp blade fuse. Less fragile, and you can find a replacement fuse at any gas station should you need one.

If the fuse is OK, then I'd definitely start looking at fuel. Was the fuel filter orange before, or did you not get a look at it?
 

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I like the fuse thing, fixin. Wish I'd thought of it.

If that goes nowhere, please allow me to elaborate on the vacuum thing. I don't remember the vacuum delivery method (hoses or internal ports), but we're lookin' at vacuum controlled carburetor slides, making the carbs eligible to be called CV, or Constant Velocity carburetors. A combination of springs and manifold vacuum work to position the slides precisely where the engine needs them, depending on load, rpm, and throttle position (demand).

The one case (on my '77) where I had this type of problem, it was caused by gummed-up slides. If yours aren't opening/moving on demand, a loss of power might result.

I sure hope you find the cause soon...:waving:
 

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the fact that it will run, but porrly is suggestive the fuel is the problem... if the main fuse breaks, you will have no power and the bike will not run.... orange colored filter sounds like a plugged filter to me
 

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You might try running the bike with the gas cap open. The cap vent clogs up sometimes.
 

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rcmatt007 wrote:
the fact that it will run, but porrly is suggestive the fuel is the problem... if the main fuse breaks, you will have no power and the bike will not run.... orange colored filter sounds like a plugged filter to me
Not true. As I mentioned, if the fuse breaks while the engine is running, as it did in my case, the bike will continue to run - just poorly at low RPM's, because the stator is incapable of supplying the coils with sufficient voltage to produce good spark.
 

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Ditto on replacing the dogbone fuse with a blade fuse.

Have you had a good look inside your fuel tank? A few months ago I had the same problem at idle and lower RPM's. Turned out it was just what others are saying on this thread.... my tank was rusted up and the gunk was making its way into the filter, fuel lines, and finally the carbs.

But taking a look at the dogbone fuse will take you all of two minutes.... and ten minutes to replace that thing with a sturdy blade type fuse. I would do that whether it's the fuse causing the problem or not.
 

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Reporting ...

During lunch I ran fuel backwards through the filter. Got a bunch of rust out (embarrassing I know). Then I put the filter back on straight. Still the same issue. I checked all the fuses in the main fuse box (under the tool kit). They all seemed fine. Some I have replaced with new fuses, but none today.

Is there a fuse somewhere else I missed? I can't think of where it would be.

I rode home very slowly with my wife following. Top speed 35 mph.

I will replace the fuel filter and let you know this evening how it looks.
 

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There is a fuse down by the battery box on the right hand side as you look at the battery. You should see the positive lead of the battery leading to the housing where the fuse is located. That's where you'll find the dogbone fuse.
 

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Xtracho wrote:
There is a fuse down by the battery box on the right hand side as you look at the battery. You should see the positive lead of the battery leading to the housing where the fuse is located. That's where you'll find the dogbone fuse.
I found it. It doesn't have glass over it or anything. It looks like the insides of a glass fuse with a screw attaching it at both ends. When you say blade fuse do you mean these things (below)? I guess I could get the hardware to convert it at checker?

I agree it is a good idea to change it. However, I am guessing my issue is more related to fuel. Will change the filter tonight and let you know.

Maybe my carbs came out of sync...
 

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I hate to be the bearer of bad news but you will probably have to pull the carbs and clean the rust out. It can get through the filter and clog the screens on the top of the float valves. Also clean out the gas tank.
 

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What Dave0430 said. If you got rust in the tank, you can just about bet your a$$ that there is rust of some form in the carbs.
 
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