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1980 honda gl 1100
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I have a 1980 gl 1100 and i took apart my rear master cylinder and cleaned everything. I didn't put a rebuild kit in it yet.
Its still not holding solid, its spongy. I bled it .

the snap ring groove that holds everything in is a little sketchy , afraid the snap ring might pop out! Its seen better days.

I see aftermarket or used ones are virtually non existent. Will try a rebuild kit probably. But have seen that some guys have adapted an aftermarket one to work since ya can't find a new or used one. Does anyone know of a good substitute brand do do this ? Or how to find one, i don't think theres any left and if so they probably want a fortune for it.

Thanx any help would be great
 

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02 GL1800 w/Auto Pilot
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59,651 Posts
don't think this will work, but


use this link to do a daily search to see what shows up.

the first few links are usually the only good ones.
After that, they just key off of the generic 'master cyclinder' for all bikes.

 

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02 GL1800 w/Auto Pilot
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59,651 Posts
for a new one?
very fair price.
 

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26,149 Posts
don't think this will work, but
That one probably could be made to work. I adapted one from a Valkyre to an 1100 with just a little engineering. In the thread where I did that someone posted that an 1800 master was easier to fit.
 

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153 Posts
don't think this will work, but


use this link to do a daily search to see what shows up.

the first few links are usually the only good ones.
After that, they just key off of the generic 'master cyclinder' for all bikes.

I don't believe it will,I bought one for my 1100 and couldnt figure out how to make it work,easily anyway

Sent from my LM-X420 using Tapatalk
 

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Premium Member
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I actually just rebuilt my rear brakes this summer on my GL1100A, that included rebuilding the rear master cylinder. After carefully cleaning it and putting the rebuild kit in, I just could NOT get the rear to bleed out. I tried pulling fluid, pushing fluid... finally I saw a paragraph in my MityVac book mentioning to 'bleed' the master cylinder. Maybe you have done this, but that was the secret that got me fixed up. The rest of the brake system bled out just fine after that.
 

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Once it is assembled and installed, the snap ring doesn't really do much. The actuator rod would hold the piston in place, even if the snap ring was gone. :eek:
 

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Once it is assembled and installed, the snap ring doesn't really do much. The actuator rod would hold the piston in place, even if the snap ring was gone. :eek:
Not on an 1100 it won't. Maybe not on other models but the 1100 pedal will swing way up and let the rod drop out and the piston will follow.
 

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305 Posts
Spungy sounds like air. The rear system is hard to bleed do to the way the calipers sit. best way is to dismount the calipers . Set the as level as possible in relation to the bleeder. The air from the y should automatically bleed up through the master if the reservoir is breathable. If it won't bleed then maybe the return port is blocked.
 

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Village Whack Job...
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7,907 Posts
Not on an 1100 it won't. Maybe not on other models but the 1100 pedal will swing way up and let the rod drop out and the piston will follow.
Dave is absolutely right. I know from first hand experience that the return spring will over power the snap ring and pull the rod right out. I'll have to look when I get home from work but I think I MIGHT have a used one that is still in good shape. If I do you can have it for $75+shipping (that's what I paid for it)
 

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Dave is absolutely right. I know from first hand experience that the return spring will over power the snap ring and pull the rod right out. I'll have to look when I get home from work but I think I MIGHT have a used one that is still in good shape. If I do you can have it for $75+shipping (that's what I paid for it)
Glad to see you posting, it's been a while.
 

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Village Whack Job...
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Yeah I have very little time for forums these days. Working 60+ hours a week plus some weekends. And way to many projects that may never get done.
 
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