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Hi all, I recently found my bike hard to start. She had lots of cranking ability but just seemed slow to fire. Last week I shut her off at home for about an hour only to find I had no power to the bike when I turned on the ignition switch, no dash lights, no nothing. I checked the main fuse and found that the fuseable link was broken. I replaced the fuseable link and that provided me with power. While replacing the fuseable link, I found that the electrical connection on the very top of the fuseable link assemble is showing signs of melting.I was just wondering if this could have been caused by the break in the fuseable link as it appears to have broken due to it's age rather thanburning off due to electrical overload.If not, looking for ideas as to why the plug has began melting?

Thanks in advance as always

Clubby

86 Blue Aspy.

Without a wing, you don't have a prayer!!
 

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clubby wrote:
Hi all, I recently found my bike hard to start. She had lots of cranking ability but just seemed slow to fire. Last week I shut her off at home for about an hour only to find I had no power to the bike when I turned on the ignition switch, no dash lights, no nothing. I checked the main fuse and found that the fuseable link was broken. I replaced the fuseable link and that provided me with power. While replacing the fuseable link,
Clubby, you ask..

I found that the electrical connection on the very top of the fuseable link assemble is showing signs of melting.I was just wondering if this could have been caused by the break in the fuseable link as it appears to have broken due to it's age rather thanburning off due to electrical overload.If not, looking for ideas as to why the plug has began melting?

No, those Red wire connectors melting is not a function of that 30 amp fuse failing.. Most all the power for that bike (including charging) passes through those two red wires at the starter relay. Once those connection start to oxidise the resistance goes up & they start to heat & melt.

The best approach is to cut both red wires off just above the plastic connectors,, then strip them back to bare CLEAN wire about 3/4",, then twist them together,, then get a 30 amp spade type SEALED automotive fuse holder & solder one pig tail of that fuse holder to those two joined red wires (use a crimp on splice clip over the connection before soldering & place heat shrink tubing over the joint when cool),, then solder a large ring type terminal on the other pigtail of that 30 amp fuse holder & attach that under the battery's positive post cable screw.. Cover all exposed wires with plastic convoluted wire protective covering & tie strap neatly in place.. Then use a little silicone sealer & seal the two connectors that remain in the starter relay.. That EFFECTIVELY by-passes that pesky factory 30 amp fuse, by-passes the red wire pass through at the starter relay & insures that you will NEVER have trouble with that area again..

Twisty
 

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Hey twisty, my electrical connector has 4 wires runnin into it, so do I need to do anything with the other two wires (green and yellow) that are also part of the plastic electrical connector on top?
 

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clubby, leave the Green and Yellow wires connected to the starter relay. They energize the relay when you press the starter button.
 

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Thank you both, John and Twisty, for the help, much appreciated.

Clubby

86 Blue Aspy

Without a wing, you don't have a prayer!!
 
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