[manicmobi]

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Recently installed, stereo, cigarette lighter, and had to solder LED Tail light.
Just tried to start her to no avail. No power, only oil warning light come on. All yellow wires from regulator have melted plug, 5 amp fuse for metres and tail light has blown. Guessing there's a short somewhere.
I have replaced the connection box and reattached wires, hopefully in the correct terminals. But she still won't start.
Can someone please explain what I need to do and clarify what order the wires should be in.
I have attached a photo of the offending item.
Would REALLY appreciate any advice.
Many thanks in anticipation
manicmobi

 

[Rocketman911]

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WELCOME:waving::waving::waving:

 

[Rabbit]

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Welcome from the
Steve Saunder's GOLDWING FORUM



A Big Welcome FromTEXAS

 

[SETHAN12]

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[align=center]

[/align]
[align=center]Welcome manicmobi[/align]

 

[ebanjo]

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Ask your question here


http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/

 

[wingsam41]

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Hello over heating of the stator wires is common on all older wings before the 1500 with an external alternator. The fix is to eliminate these connectors and straight solder the connections wire for wire that meet at the connectors. My 1986 SEI now has 4 different connctors eliminated for that very reason. 3 up by the regulator and the one by the battery. You will need to check your stator before anything else and do not run bike before wiring is repaired-otherwise you risk damage to your stator if it is still good. Search "stator test" in forum search-also someone will likely post in here. The stator wires overheating are likely not directly related to the work you've done but check it over to be sure and welcome to the forum.

 

[CaptainMidnight85]

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I did away with that plug and soldered the wires together. Mine was in roughly the same shape as yours when I got my '78.

 

[JerryH]

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My '85 LTD had 3 connectors, one by the battery, 2 by the regulator, and all 3 were in far worse shape than that one. I soldered everything, but the regulator and wires still get plenty hot. The wires next to the regulator are turning brown, and the insulation is getting brittle due to the heat. The regulator runs too hot to touch without getting burned.

 

[wingsam41]

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JerryH wrote:

My '85 LTD had 3 connectors, one by the battery, 2 by the regulator, and all 3 were in far worse shape than that one. I soldered everything, but the regulator and wires still get plenty hot. The wires next to the regulator are turning brown, and the insulation is getting brittle due to the heat. The regulator runs too hot to touch without getting burned.

Jerry don't forget there's another connector up by the regulator on your LTD-at least it's there on the SEI. The 2 connector halves mate through a black bracket forward of the regulator.

Additionally, make sure no wires are in contact with the regulator fins. I'm guessing youve alreday done that but worth mentioning. I seem to remember you saying your plastic has melted a bit as well so my thoughts is that your regulator is abnormally hot. I'd recheck that other connector up by the regulator.

 

[Doug D]

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:action:Welcome to the greatestforum on the net:action:
and
:action:Welcome from the "Hoosier State":action:

 

[manicmobi]

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Rabbit wrote:

                Welcome from the
    Steve Saunder's   GOLDWING FORUM
                                              
                                                              
  
A Big Welcome From  TEXAS 

Thanks

 

[manicmobi]

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Sorry for not responding sooner... No power at all now. Have checked all loom for short. Nothing, cleaned all connectors, will try and check Stator tomorrow.
Many thanks for all your comments

 

[JerryH]

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wingsam41 wrote:

JerryH wrote:

My '85 LTD had 3 connectors, one by the battery, 2 by the regulator, and all 3 were in far worse shape than that one. I soldered everything, but the regulator and wires still get plenty hot. The wires next to the regulator are turning brown, and the insulation is getting brittle due to the heat. The regulator runs too hot to touch without getting burned.

Jerry don't forget there's another connector up by the regulator on your LTD-at least it's there on the SEI. The 2 connector halves mate through a black bracket forward of the regulator.

Additionally, make sure no wires are in contact with the regulator fins. I'm guessing youve alreday done that but worth mentioning. I seem to remember you saying your plastic has melted a bit as well so my thoughts is that your regulator is abnormally hot. I'd recheck that other connector up by the regulator.

There were TWO plastic connectors at the regulator. One was just two yellow wires from the stator, the other one was much larger, and had the other yellow stator wire, 2 green wires, 2 red/white wires, ans a black wire. According to the schematic, both green wires, and both red/white wires connect together somewhere close to the regulator. Anyway, I have soldered everything, and put a piece of fiberglass insulation over the regulator to keep anything from touching it. As soon as I am finished with the fuel injection, and get it running again, I intend to relocate the regulator outside the bike somewhere, and possibly put a cooling fan on it. But it is actually burning the insulation on the wires that connect to it. Eventually they will burn off, and that will be the end of the regulator. Seems to me the hotter they get, and the longer they stay hot, the more resistance there is going to be, which will just accelerate the process.

 

[chilidawg]

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Welcome to the forum.

You're problem is a regular thing that happens on early GL's, cut off those plastic plugs and get out the wire nuts, it all hides behind the side panel.

 

[Armo]

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who hasn't had that problem,
I cut back all the bad wiring and used 10 guage with spade crimp connectors, no more heat, no more problems

 

[wingsam41]

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JerryH wrote:

wingsam41 wrote:

JerryH wrote:

My '85 LTD had 3 connectors, one by the battery, 2 by the regulator, and all 3 were in far worse shape than that one. I soldered everything, but the regulator and wires still get plenty hot. The wires next to the regulator are turning brown, and the insulation is getting brittle due to the heat. The regulator runs too hot to touch without getting burned.

Jerry don't forget there's another connector up by the regulator on your LTD-at least it's there on the SEI. The 2 connector halves mate through a black bracket forward of the regulator.

Additionally, make sure no wires are in contact with the regulator fins. I'm guessing youve alreday done that but worth mentioning. I seem to remember you saying your plastic has melted a bit as well so my thoughts is that your regulator is abnormally hot. I'd recheck that other connector up by the regulator.

There were TWO plastic connectors at the regulator. One was just two yellow wires from the stator, the other one was much larger, and had the other yellow stator wire, 2 green wires, 2 red/white wires, ans a black wire. According to the schematic, both green wires, and both red/white wires connect together somewhere close to the regulator. Anyway, I have soldered everything, and put a piece of fiberglass insulation over the regulator to keep anything from touching it. As soon as I am finished with the fuel injection, and get it running again, I intend to relocate the regulator outside the bike somewhere, and possibly put a cooling fan on it. But it is actually burning the insulation on the wires that connect to it. Eventually they will burn off, and that will be the end of the regulator. Seems to me the hotter they get, and the longer they stay hot, the more resistance there is going to be, which will just accelerate the process.

Jerry - have another look. Yes there are 2 connectors immediately pigtailed to the regulator. Then there is a 3rd connector with just about the same count of wires as the larger of the 2 regulator connectors. It's 2 halves mate through a metal bracket just as the connector by the battery used to. It is located just forward of the regulator. Dollars to doughnuts you have problems with that connector. I'll bet you aint done soldering just yet!

 

[manicmobi]

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STILL complete electrical failure; no lights, solonoid click nothing!!!
Call it a blonde thing if you like!!! but I am scared to remove the plastic connector box and just solder wires directly in case I have misinterpreted you and do it wrong, but I guess I'm going to have to try albeit I don't see how doing this will give her power back.
I also just noticed I don't have a main fuse attached to the battery or anywhere else.

 

[WingerDave]

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manicmobi wrote:

I also just noticed I don't have a main fuse attached to the battery or anywhere else.

Yup, that'll kill the power, no problem.



The main fuse is under a little lid on the front of the starter relais, left-hand side, next to the battery. It's a "dog-bone" type (although there are after-market ones that take a modern fuse).



If it's blown, and looking at the picture you supplied that is certainly possible, then you won't have ANY power at all.



Dave.

 

[CaptainMidnight85]

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manicmobi wrote:

but I am scared to remove the plastic connector box and just solder wires directly in case I have misinterpreted you and do it wrong...

You won't do it wrong (unless you use the wrong solder). You could always replace the connector with another one. Plenty of nice aftermarket automotive connectors out there that will do the job, but NONE will do it as well as directly soldering those wires together.

It was an extreme move for me when I did it to my '78 at the time I did it, but I know I'll never have a failed connector or connection with a soldered connection.

I marked wire locations (wire-to-wire) with colored tape so as to not get confused when I disassembled the connectorsand soldered the wiresup. No problem since. I heat-shrank each soldered connection then taped them all together when done. I've thought of venting my left sidecover for the reg, but haven't. I put a super bright headlight in my fairing that helps it not get as hot as it use to.

Remeber, the more current your bike draws as a whole, the less that thing has to work to cool off. It's a balancing act of current consumption and what is available to consume. If I'm moving-on down the highway there's plenty enough air getting behind my sidecover to cool it.

 

[bobalou]

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Main fuse could be on the start solinoid. Recently found PO had used wire to tig the bike instead of a fuse. Having the correct wire diagram is a plus. solder and shrink tube is the only way to go in doing the repairs. And if your an idiot like me do one wire at a time to a done..completely.. shrink tube taped etc.....