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my bike has sat for 3 yrs and the front left cylinder is cold when running. she runs rough and wont idle. the carb feeding the cylinder gets very cold and condensation forms on the outside strangely?? any help or tips appreciated

Thanks Ali
 

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It's not very likely you will get it to run right without removing the carbs and cleaning them out after so long a sitting time. You might get away without putting kits in them if all the rubber parts are OK.
 

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Most likely your carbs must come off & be cleaned out. New carb kits from Mother Honda or Randakk's should go in. Other kits that might be cheaper are (cheaper).

However, you can try a good blast of sea foam in the fuel which might open up a plugged carb. You could also try lightly tapping the side of the fuel bowl in the hopes that the gunk will dislodge and clear up.

What is the condition of your fuel tank inside? You might have a rust issue in there.
 

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i would clean all four carbs
 

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Discussion Starter #5
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Thanks guys, i wanted to avoid cleaning them if i could cos i have limited time and no experience, i wouldnt know were to begin! i will try the sea foam. not sure about the rust in the tank but i will let you know. the bike was prepped for long term storage which i have had people say is a good thing, also have carb kits for all 4 carbs so if i had them out i will replace rubber.

Thanks Ali
 

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I think there is a video available that will walk you through a carb job step by step. They are not overly complicated but while your doing them, you must be patient and pay attention to detail as far as cleaning goes. Also, the floats must be set dead on. If you were out by just 2 millimeters, It could cause your wing to run too rich or too lean.

Pour half a can of sea foam in your tank to scrub it. But do not let that concentration to sit for more than a few days as it will begin to eat your rubber seals.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
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thanks, ye i made the mistake with the float a few weeks ago, until i realized it was set in a certain position! we met an english guy who has a '99 GL1500, after working on the bike he came over today an he said he was good with mechanics, if i had known that i would have had him round for the last 3 days helping!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
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Hey Hatchetman did u mean a video online or one form say randaks or somewhere?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
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ye been looking obviously not in the right places so far! will the carbs slip out without moving the engine?
 

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Yes, you can get the carbs out with the engine still bolted in. There isnt alot of room & they should slide out on the left side. lil twisting & a few choice words, but they will slide out.

Did you click on the link I sent you?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
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sorry had not sen that at first! had a look an looks as though it may be helpful, had another tinker today and really starting to realize that i am going to have to take off the carbs. not something i wanted to do considering my experience level! anyway soldier on! im sure i will be back asking more Q's, anyone have any hints on removing them?
 

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From memory, so excuse me if I missed a detail, but I think this pretty much covers it:

seat off,
fake gastank cover off,
little black side fairings and front side fairings off, and the little carb covers off if you got them,
disco fuel line off the fuel pump to carb on rightside,
loosen 2 intake boots on rightside and turn upside down(or remove if you like),and stuff a ragin holes just in case you drop something in,
take off 2 intake boots on leftside, and stuff a ragin holes just in case you drop something in,
disco the spark plug lines and get the leftside onesout of your way
wiggle the carb assembly a little bit to loosen the 4 metal vacuum lines on the top of the engine, (might have to use a long screwdriver for leverage, but be REAL careful not to damage the lines),
disco the choke cable from the front bottom left of the carbs,
wiggle the carb assembly a little more to the left until you can reach the throttle lines to disco them,
Takethe carb assembly from the bike, you'll need to turn the assembly towards the left as they're coming out to get them completely out, now hold the assemblylike you just delivered a newborn baby.:action:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
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thanks for the info, looking at the clymer manual its telling me to remove the bolts for the pipes that go down into the cylinders one on each side, they sit in the middle of where the carbs are attached to the cylinders is this right? i thought they were for coolant?
also dont have seat off do i need it off?
 

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Don't know what you're referring to, there is no coolant lines from the carbs to the motor on a 1200.

Maybe you're referring to the4 intake steel boots(held down with 2 bolts a piece to the motor, and there's a hoseclamp on the carb side that keeps them tight; and DON'T try to disconnect the rubber from the metal).

There's also 4 metal vacuum lines that's held down under the intake steel boots. These might be a bittight to wiggle off of the motor, so be careful not to damage or kink them.

You'll just be getting the lines off the motor, and then pull the assembly out with everything still on, except the intake steel boots of course.
 

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If you got a clymers,these questions areanswered there.

Yeah the seat does need to come off. Because the only wayto get the airboxoff is to get the fake gastank cover off, and the only way to get the fake gastankcover off is to take off the seat and the sidecovers.:waving:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
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i already had the fake gas tank off without getting the seat off, dont ask how i did it but it slipped out!! i now have the carbs off, the pipe i was referring to was the coolant pipes (not attached to the carb assembly) in the clymer it tells you to remove it but you dont need to so thats y i asked. ye the rubber seals on the inlets only comes off the carb side cos they are bonded onto the other side. now having problems with the black plastic cover over the top of the carbs where the air filter sits on, someone previous has broken all the screw heads so i am having to bore into them to remove them. also does anybody know how or what to clean them in, i was told an acid but what type?

any advice greatly appreciated!

Thanks Ali
 

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If you are going to completely disassemble them you can get a gallon bucket of carb cleaner to soak them in or if you want to clean them without taking them completely apart use spray carb cleaner. Depends how bad they look inside the bowls what you will need to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
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ok i have replacement rubbers but they all seem to be working fine bar 1 and i think its the idle jet thats clogged so i dont wanna do more than i have to, not cos im lazy just cos i dont know what i am doing and i fear for making it worse so i think i will inspect that carb and possibly do a quick check of the others an get it back on before i break it!!
 

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ali, you should remove all 4 bowls, remove the floats and needle valves, the main and idle jets and the idle mixture screws so you can be sure to clean out all the passages. Otherwise you will regret not doing it. Before removing the mixture screws turn them in while counting the # of turns until it seats lightly so when you put it back in you can reset them to the same position. There is plenty of help available here if you run into a problem.
 
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