Mobil 1 synthetic extended performance 15k

3554 Views 21 Replies 15 Participants Last post by boppa, Sep 24, 2009

knute

Discussion Starter · Sep 18, 2009

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I am thinking of using Mobil 1 extended performance (15,000 miles they claim) on my 2 cars, does anyone here use this? I put about 10k and 12k on both my cars per year, typical driving, some city, some highway, we do have fairly rough winter weather here, my thoughts are to change the oil once a year, and use a mobil 1 oil filter and change it every 6 months, but I'm still in the contemplating phase, what do you think? Thank you.

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ddrumman2004

· #2 · Sep 18, 2009

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There is no way I would run motor oil for 15,000 miles in my vehicle!
I change mine every 3000 but then again, I don't put 10K miles a year on it.

I don't run synthetic oil in my truck either and doubt I ever will as it has almost 180,000 miles on it and I have read that synthetic oil in a high mileage engine will cause seals to fail, due to it's cleaning action.

It doesn't use any oil between changes either!

Big John .25

· #3 · Sep 18, 2009

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I've used Mobil 1 for 16 years now, and it works well. The 89 voyager was running good when I traded it in at 436,954 miles for a 96 caravan that I sold at 473'656 mile and it was running great. Use it in my 95 nissan pick-up and at 154,278 miles its fine. Also use it in my 06 Ridgeline and the 08 F-150. I change every 4500 miles, although the wifes F-150 usually goes over that to about 6000.
Started using it when I was racing Sprint Cars and Smoky Yunick said if I was using Mobil 1 and having engine oil problems look somewhere besides the oil, closest he ever came to an endorsment of a product.
Because it is thiner if you have an oil leak with conventional oil you will have an oil hemmorage with synthetic.
Use it in my 84 Sabre with great results, but I have a kevlar clutch in it, I use shell rotella in the Wing, and valvoline motorcyle oil in the 83 Magna.
Would those vehicles gone that far on good conventional oil? _Maybe. Synthetic oil is more expensive, that is why I went to 4500 mile change instead of 3000, and I don't have to change as often.
Is it worth it-Maybe, will it hurt anything-no

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FenderHead

· #4 · Sep 18, 2009

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I have been doing this since 1974, with absolutely perfect success! (sometimes with M1, sometimes with Amsoil, remembering that many of us do not exceed 15k miles/year) You will meet with extreme resistance to this idea, but I can tell you...IT REALLY WORKS! And remember, you really CAN do what you want with your engines and your money. (including changing oil every 3k) If there is a warranty involved, you must comply with those terms thru the life of the warranty or risk voiding it, of course.

You do, however, need to consider your driving habits. Oil/filter needs to be changed morefrequently IF the engine doesn't warm up routinely, and/or most driving is in dusty conditions, and/or mostly in stop & go city driving. :waving:

CaptainMidnight85

· #5 · Sep 19, 2009

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Mobile 1 has a long history.
Mobile originally developed Synthetic oil for the military.

Original advertising stated "...up to 25,000 miles between oil changes."
Right... 25k miles, nobody believed it.

Later advertising, "up to 10,000 miles between oil changes."
Right... 10k miles, nobody believed it.

Still later advertising, "up to 7,500 miles between oil changes."
Right... 7.5k miles. Close, but not close enough.

Many who used it early on experienced leaks directly after their oil change, then wondered why.... Many shops refused to use it. Refused to put it in a customers car.

My GL engine is not designed for synthetic oil.
Molecules are too small for the tolerances.

It's like playing basketball with a golf ball. It'll work, I suppose.
Golf with a basketball on the otherhand will put your new 'Vette in the junkyard.

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Jason m

· #6 · Sep 19, 2009

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163000 miles on my F150 using MOBIL 1 5W-20 and 10K BETWEEN OIL CHANGES. Pulled intake off to replace gasket (bad problem with 4.2l v6) clean as a whislte. I run about 60miles a day on my truck mostly highway. I also us a K&N air filter which I clean at same interval. no problems. But I would not use it in my bike. I am afraid the clutches would not like it.

GLester

· #7 · Sep 20, 2009

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Jason m wrote:

163000 miles on my F150 using MOBIL 1 5W-20 and 10K BETWEEN OIL CHANGES. Pulled intake off to replace gasket (bad problem with 4.2l v6) clean as a whislte. I run about 60miles a day on my truck mostly highway. I also us a K&N air filter which I clean at same interval. no problems. But I would not use it in my bike. I am afraid the clutches would not like it.

Mobil 1 makes a great motorcyle oil.(You can get it at some Wal-Marts)It exceeds all warranty requirements, and I use it in my 1800, and if I had known how much better the bike would shift using it, I would had used it in the 1500 that I had. Shifts so much better than with the over priced Honda dino oil that was installed. I've used synthetic oils for years, in cars and trucks, never a problem with sludge, or leaks. My pickup has over 112,000 miles, the last truck I had over 300,000 on it when I traded it in. I'm a firm believer in synthetic oils, much better overal than dino oil.

Gene:waving:

wing ding

· #8 · Sep 20, 2009

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I use Mobil 1 racing 4T motorcycle oil in my 1100. I put in the spring. Stays in there all season. Comes out next spring along with the filter. Scrub hair, lather, rinse, repeat.:action:

Longboater

· #9 · Sep 20, 2009

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FenderHead wrote:

I have been doing this since 1974, with absolutely perfect success! (sometimes with M1, sometimes with Amsoil, remembering that many of us do not exceed 15k miles/year) You will meet with extreme resistance to this idea, but I can tell you...IT REALLY WORKS! And remember, you really CAN do what you want with your engines and your money. (including changing oil every 3k) If there is a warranty involved, you must comply with those terms thru the life of the warranty or risk voiding it, of course.

You do, however, need to consider your driving habits. Oil/filter needs to be changed morefrequently IF the engine doesn't warm up routinely, and/or most driving is in dusty conditions, and/or mostly in stop & go city driving. :waving:

My time as well goes back that far with M-1 and still use syn products in gen. I agree with the above DRIVING CONDITIONS and its' affect on engine oil. Short haul, stop and go will tear an engine up in no time without proper oil changes. Long haul with light engine loads, oil change intervals could be extended. Oil analysis bears this out.

Longboater

bamadave

· #10 · Sep 20, 2009

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For 3 years, I have been using Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 5/30, changing every 5K miles.

Jason m: "But I would not use it in my bike. I am afraid the clutches would not like it."

Me: Same here. It says "Energy Conserving" on the jug.

Big John .25:" I've used Mobil 1 for 16 years now, and it works well. The 89 voyager was running good when I traded it in at 436,954 miles for a 96 caravan that I sold at 473'656 mile and it was running great".
Me: Proof enough for me that I made a good choice.

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ahnerrj

· #11 · Sep 20, 2009

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I would never leave oil in a motor for 15,000 miles. The pollutants will act as an abrasive even though the oil’s viscosity properties maybe good. I use Shell Rotella-T 5w-40 in my ST and change it every 3000 miles. My last oil change was at 4300 miles. The oil was dirty and gritty. The oil was definitely in too long. I can’t imagine oil being left in an motorcycle engine for 15,000 miles. As for my GL1100, I use conventional Diesel motor oil. Delvac 15W-40.
As for synthetic oil in older bikes… Synthetic oil has detergent properties that will clean sludge that could cause seals plugged by that same sludge to begin leaking. I learned this from an engineer that works for Amsoil. Synthetic oil is not really synthetic by definition. Synthetic oil unlike conventional oil goes through an extended refining process that gives molecular properties greater consistency. Other components are added to the oil to give it greater resistance to molecular shear (which is what you want with a wet clutch). Hence more expensive to make. Especially for engines with tighter tolerances, synthetic oil will flow through your engine faster than conventional oil. Synthetic oil will always provide greater protection for your engine than conventional oils.
I'm sure we can debate this topic forever...

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jbb303

· #12 · Sep 20, 2009

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I can not vouch for or share personal experience with the info contained in the site I'm about to share but was surfing and came across a site that seemed to be a fairly independent look at different types of oil and offered some general advice.

Note; He mentions Mobile 1 automotive oil but doesn't mention the Mobile 1 motorcycle formula.

Check it out; http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Consumables.html

Hanko

· #13 · Sep 20, 2009

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I've been using Mobil 1(10W40) in my 1800 since the second oil change. I have just gone over 50,000 miles on the 04 wing and it runs better now than the day I took it home. The wife and I typically ride 2 up and I tow a trailer on our long trips.

I ran Mobil 1(10W40) in my wife's 1987 Camry Wagon and we gave the car away to a needy family when it had 335,000 miles on it. I changed the oil in the Camry at about every 7 to 10,000 miles depending on when the wife would give it up. The family that has it are still using the car as a daily driver, but I do not know what oil they are using.

The wife now has a Honda Odyssey Van that she has put over 170,000 miles on using Mobile 1 (5W30) and the only problems we have had are with the transmission and the sliding doors. I change the oil when the service light stays on (every 7500 miles) I think she will keep this one for awhile because she likes how it runs and how it feels.

I ran Mobil 1(10W40) in my Moto Guzzi after it hit just over 40,000 miles. The engine was still in great shape, can't say the same for the Italian Chrome Job, the Lucas wiring, the Magneti Marelli Ignition, or the Del Orto carburetors that were all in pretty bad shape when I decided to put it to rest.

The guy who took the bike reused the engine in another guzzi and it is still on the road.

Use it or not its up to you to decide. So far I have had great experiences with it. Since most of my driving is at highway speeds my engines get warmed up enough to prevent the buildup of a lot of unburned hydrocarbons.

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Longboater

· #14 · Sep 20, 2009

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Thanks for sharing the oil info site. Also something to said for using good oil and changing it often too.

Longboater

bamadave

· #15 · Sep 24, 2009

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Just curious, I am paying $22 for a 5 gal Full Synthetic 5/30jug in this part of the woods. Is that about what everyone else is paying? Thanks!

Longboater

· #16 · Sep 24, 2009

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5 gal or 5 qrt? If it's gallons I'm on my way.:action:

bamadave

· #17 · Sep 24, 2009

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Longboater wrote:

5 gal or 5 qrt? If it's gallons I'm on my way.:action:

RIFLMAO! Lester, I got a brainfart. dern 3rd shifts and not enough sleep.

Correction, 5 quarts!

bamadave

· #18 · Sep 24, 2009

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I meant Longboater...mummming I'm going to bed.

GLester

· #19 · Sep 24, 2009

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bamadave wrote:

Just curious, I am paying $22 for a 5 gal Full Synthetic 5/30jug in this part of the woods. Is that about what everyone else is paying? Thanks!

Be careful about 5w30 oil, most oils in that grade are "energy conserving" which means that they have additives that will ruin our wet clutches. Never run any oil that has "Energy Conserving" on the API label in your wing.

Gene:waving:

bamadave

· #20 · Sep 24, 2009

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GLester wrote:

bamadave wrote:

Just curious, I am paying $22 for a 5 gal Full Synthetic 5/30jug in this part of the woods. Is that about what everyone else is paying? Thanks!

Click to expand...

Be careful about 5w30 oil, most oils in that grade are "energy conserving" which means that they have additives that will ruin our wet clutches. Never run any oil that has "Energy Conserving" on the API label in your wing.

Gene:waving:

That's the kind I use in my autos.

I use Amsoil in my Goldwing but thanks anyway Lester.

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