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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is a good description of the conversion from a 1200 wheel to a 1500 wheel, the parts can be found from most trike conversions for around $100.00 including the tire.


The adapter you have has 6 pins, all 1200 wheels have 6 pins as do the 88-89 GL1500s (1990 and up have 5 pins) so you can use any other 1200 final drive spline adapter or a same piece from a 88-89 GL1500 if you know of one that's triked.

You can in fact, use any year 1500 final drive, but you need a 6 pin final drive adapter to keep a 1200 rear wheel. You only have to drill out the 4 mount holes in the swing arm when using the 1500 final drive in place of the 1200 final drive, drill to 7/16" diameter. If you use a 1500 final drive, it does use a 1/4" longer axle and while not absolutely needed, that extra 1/4" sticking past the big nut is nice to see.

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You can also use the whole 1500 rear end set up, with better wheel bearing support and double row inner drive side bearing and get a larger, more powerful rear brake, but you would need the 1500 final drive, wheel, adapters, spacers, brake caliper mount, axle, etc.

Still use 1200 drive shaft.

Now you might also be able to use a C/T (the taxi tire?) on this rim if it will also fit under the fender, I know it is no wider!
1500 rears are some easier to find as more were converted to trikes. I'll paint my wheels spokes black.

To install the 1500 final / wheel with bigger double row bearing / and larger brake rotor.

Drill out the four drive shaft tube to differential bolt holes to 7/16".

You must machine or grind the 1500 caliper mount on the side nearest swing arm and away from wheel



http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...rum/41965d1333645708-1984-aspencade-img2.jpeg

Use the 1200 axle and the single spacer from the 1500 on left side.

Route the brake hose to the outside of the left shock.

The left lower shock/caliper mount bolt will also need to be ground down 1/4" shorter to clear the rotor.

Using 1500 final / wheel / brake is reputed to center the wheel better in the swing arm than the stock 1200 which has a slight offset.

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To install just the 1500 final drive ....
The 1200 flange will fit the 1500 drive if you want to install your 1200 wheel on a 1500 drive, but then you keep the 1200 smaller rear brake disc and mount and two spacers on left side, etc. To do this, you just need to drill out the 4 holes in the swing arm.

The 1500 rear wheel has a double race main weight carrying bearing in a more solid mounting than the single row one in the 1200 wheel that tends to wobble out the weakly reinforced mounting ring in the 1200 wheel (It's not the 1200 bearing that spins .... rather it's the pounding of the heavy bike and the fact that the rear drive side bearing is carrying most of the weight on this one bearing nearest the center of the wheel that pounds out the weakly re-enforced aluminum area where the bearing mounts in the wheel).

The 1500 rear wheel arrangement comes with a larger diameter rear brake rotor which greatly increases rear braking, even though pad and caliper is the same as effective leverage and swept area is increased.

The 1500 differential uses slightly larger bolts to attach to the swing-arm, hence drilling the 4 holes.

You will need to use the 1500 brake caliper mounting bracket due to the larger rotor on the 1500 wheel. The calipers are identical on both the 1200 and the 1500, but the 1500 mounting bracket will need to be ground down to fit into the 1200 swing arm.
 

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I think I remember reading you can swap the whole swing arm assembly from a 1500 to a 1200.
 

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Dave .... I don't believe the 1500 swing arm in total will fit a 1200. I believe it's both wider up front and longer though I would need to measure to tell all differences. I'll measure here in a spell and come back if it looks even close.

Here is a good description of the conversion from a 1200 wheel to a 1500 wheel, the parts can be found from most trike conversions for around $100.00 including the tire.
... etc ...
but the 1500 mounting bracket will need to be ground down to fit into the 1200 swing arm.
On my "to do list" for the winter ... :) ... sounds same familiar somehow ... :? ... I think 'tis good to spread the word! :applause:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just did this conversion on my 1200 today. Only issue was the drive-shaft missed the U-joint the first time, then the U-joint fell off the output shaft the second time. It has always slid on without a fuss before!

I still have a few other chores to do on the bike tomorrow but hopefully will be giving it a test run right afterwards.

Now I have a 16" EIII on the back, perhaps next time I might be able to squeeze a Maxi Taxi tire under there instead?

:cool:
 

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So Ray did you use the 88-89 wheel or 90-2000 wheel? If the 90-2000 wheel, we could pull mine off and try it in yours. I have the Vredestein on mine now, same size as the Austone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I used the rear end off of a 2000.

It sure is a tight fit but it goes in there with the tire deflated of course.

I might have to pull it again to replace the seal on the end of the driveshaft at the differential though, I will find out when I fill the differential and run it.
 

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Just did this conversion on my 1200 today.
.... etc .... etc ....
:cool:
So .... :? .... it really does fit huh? :applause:

Be sure and post back your impressions as to handling, bikes turn in, and braking.
Looking at mine just yesterday, looks like dead of winter will find me doing same in basement this year.
 
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