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Hello to you all on this fine day.

Well winter here in Perth Australia is nearly finished. Have spent the good part of the winter month servicing my beloved goldwing, and adding some extra zing to the old girl.

About three years ago, I decided that the radio was not enough, and transferring all my music to cassette taps was out of the question, so like any other goldwing owner, you start looking at alternative solution.

One was the cassette adaptor and the fm transmitter. Not the best sound and they do have there problems. So this year I wanted both my Iphone 4 and my new Samsung tablet to be connected to the bike, it was obvious, I had to find a better solution, so I spent a few hours on the web, I discover the steve sanders web site and a full description and parts list to change the existing radio to handle the iphone/ ipod at that stage.

After saucing the parts, I started. Now I’m not electrical engineer, but I found the step very easy to do and with a steady hand and some luck, I had it all done and dusted.
Now it was better that the other solution, that’s for sure, but I found over the past 3 years the sound has gotten lesser and lesser, to the point of max volume on both the radio and the device didn’t fix it.

So this winter I started my quest in finding something else or to fix the existing problem. Again to the net… This time I found an alternative solution that I wished I found earlier. Much easier and a far better sound result.

The article was added to the end of another example of the same modification I did serval years ago, this time involving the cassette side of the radio; I have to say it simple to the max.
After removing all the wiring from the last modification I did to the radio, I simply removed the circuit board very carefully, found the + legs to the cap c139 and c140 and a ground point at the back of the board, I tined the ends of these wire and soldier them quickly to the spot at the back shown on the paper work I downloaded. That’s it, simple…. I them place some shrink tube to the ends of the connections to the board to prevent any short circuit happening
Placed all three wires in to a large shrink tube and ran the wires out side the radio to connect to a stereo female 3.5mm jack that I have setup on the new textlent accessories bar I installed to hold the iphone and the tablet.

The final step is. You need to find an old cassette tape that you are able to take apart.. that was one of the most hardest job…trying to find that in Perth, a few call later I found what I was looking for, and they where the ones that allow you to unscrew the case, remove all the ribbon and wheels etc, you only need the case to trick the tape deck.

So after I have done the wiring, connected the radio back to the bike, connected the iphone to the jack, insert the cassette tape in to the radio and turned it on…..SUCCESS…. it works great and no toggle switch, just leave the tape cassette in the radio, use the button to switch from radio to cassette and hey, the music is clear and perfect..WOW… It works great on the tablet with the larger screen viewing music and the navigation application; making this modification was worth the effort. So in my opinion, this is a much better way to get a great result. I have placed the link, so go and check it out.
The only thing I haven’t done yet is to start the bike to see if I get any interference from the electrical system while the bike is running,

Have a great day enjoy the ride

http://www.rangeweb.net/~nperry/Goldwing/Aux input 2.htm
 

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Thanks for the ideas.

Hope you don't mind, I just stole your avatar. I love night riding and my sidecars. If your little smiley had a happy face it would be perfect for me.
 

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SidecarMike wrote:
If your little smiley had a happy face it would be perfect for me.
PM wingnut junior Mike. More than likely he made that one and might be able to give it a happier face for you.
 

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I just recently did the same mod and am very pleased with the results
 

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I like the concept but worry about plugging in a device that puts too much power into the circuit with the possibility of damage to the radio. Are there any specifications as to maximum input power / voltage?
 

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The nice thing about the mod to the cassette input is that it can be done from the top of the board - dropping the dissassembly time completely, and on the older radios (where the cassette eject is manual, the "fake tape" does not need to have any guts/gears/wheels in it at all.

Here in the US, I've been lucky to find the cassette adaptors (with the 3-pin cord) in salvage shops (goodwill, ARC, Salvation Army) then gut the adaptor and use the cord from the adapter so that this mod is a 1-hr $2USD mod.

Quite nice actually -- thanks for reminding all of us TUGWILSON
 

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I would not be up to speed on that Len but i use the sat nag and an mp3 and i have to turn up the volume on both machines to hesr it clearly so there not over powering dont forget these gizmos are made to plug into yours ears so the desabels cant be too loud
 

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Len -- the way that this modification is done places the otuput from the "MP# PLayer" (or whateevr source) at the point where the Cassette-side pre-amp output is fed into the audio switching circuitry ...

As Peter posts above, the output of the MP# players is really quite low and is commonally plugged directly into "AUX" or "tape" inputs on home stereo equipment which is about all that's happening with this approach to the Aux-In mod for the GL1500.

About the worst risk to the Bike's radio will be low-frequency high output (near DC). the connection point (being the +'ve side of C139 and C140) will keep DC isolated from the switching stuff and effectively away from the baance of the radio/amp circuitry. The cap there also protects against shorting to ground (like when you plug in your MP3 or whatever.

There is a tiny chance of coupling the DC back into the putput of the cassette's pre-amp (a $6USD part by Panasonic RVIUPC1228H) but this is pretty well protected by a relatively large resistor (I think 10K or so) and could be "fully isolated" if those resistors were removed altogether (but would disable the tape-playback until the resistors were reinstalled).

Very low risk, and really 'no' risk if the player and bike-radio are both shut-off when you're pluggin/unplugging the MP3 player...

... really just a long way to say that agnogel is quite correct (as usual) ;)
 
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