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Ok, I'm no spring chicken but as long they can keep me supplied with aftermarket parts (knees, hips, etc) I'm gonna keep riding my wings. I've never been in a club and I perfer to ride alone although a grateful passenger is always fine. You'll find me on the road less taken and will pass me as I enjoy the sights, sounds, smells and history of the area. Since I got my drivers license on Feb 16, 1967, I have never had a traffic ticket. Ok, two warnings, but no tickets! I'm not going to be the one that's holding back a line of cars and tend to go with the flow unless, for safety's sake, some agressive driving is needed. Ramble, ramble, along to my point.



NOT RECOMMENDED FOR MOTORCYCLE ENGINES THAT COMBINE CRANKCASE AND TRANSMISSION OILS.



For those who would admonish me for what I'm going to say, I know. Molybdenum is one of those things that I have used for years in my motorcycles and will continue to do so as long as I can ride. The issue is shifting. What a difference this stuff makes in the transmission. Adding this to the engine oil and driving for 600 miles will result in a night and day difference in the way the tranny shifts. I've used it in my 1980 and 81 Interstates, my 82 Aspencade and still use it in my 83 Aspy and 1990 1500. The warning about using it on wet clutches is a very valid one. I would not use it if my driving habits were based on light to light driving, but for the way I drive, it is like a mechanic in a can. (Seafoam?)



I'm just reporting on something that has worked well for me and not encouraging you to do anything that I have done.



By the way, If you're looking for Moly Paste, this is a good place to get it.



http://guarddogmolylubricants.com/index.shtml



Enjoy the ride.



Tim
 

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Thanks for the tip on the paste. I will compare their prices with Honda's price for their paste. I use synthetic oil in my Valk and it shifts fine so I don't think I want to take a chance with moly in my crankcase; but your point is well received.

Dubs
 

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How are you getting away with using Moly and not having the clutch slipping? I have never tried moly so i am curious, but i don't want to ruin my clutch.
 

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Re-read the big warning in the center of his post:

NOT RECOMMENDED FOR MOTORCYCLE ENGINES THAT COMBINE CRANKCASE AND TRANSMISSION OILS.
 

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Indianawantsme wrote:
How are you getting away with using Moly and not having the clutch slipping? I have never tried moly so i am curious, but i don't want to ruin my clutch.
I'm getting away with it because I'm not demanding a lot from the clutch. I've pulled a trailer cross country and my driving habits are rather conservative.. I'm guessing that under normal driving conditions, Moly is OK, but I would not recommend it to anyone. It works for me and I love the results. If my clutch goes south, I'll just replace it.Haven't had one fail yet.I will continue to use it and enjoy the benefits. Now, if someone had a harley with a seperate gearbox...??!!



Tim
 

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There is a lot of different Molybdenum out there. It's about micron size and PPM once analyzed.

First, in a good class 2 commercial oil it will stay suspended. Think DELO or Rotella.

Second, since it stays in suspension, if under 1 micron and around 75-100 ppm, the clutch won't even know it's there. It's particulate size is too smallfor the mountainous valleys of the clutch to even know it's there.

If over 1 micron and above 250 ppm, then I'd have some concerns.

Any and all "S" rated oil should be avoided anyway IMO. That crap breaks down in Jap-bikes because of the transmissions.

Hell, some of the best oils ever produced are no longer available. That's why some of us mix our own.

A $20 oil analysis of each oil change will tell you all you need to know about what is going-on in theengine with it's components in there. It's going to take more than one analysis though. Need at least a few to know something.
 

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CaptainMidnight85 wrote:
There is a lot of different Molybdenum out there. It's about micron size and PPM once analyzed.

First, in a good class 2 commercial oil it will stay suspended. Think DELO or Rotella.

Second, since it stays in suspension, if under 1 micron and around 75-100 ppm, the clutch won't even know it's there. It's particulate size is too smallfor the mountainous valleys of the clutch to even know it's there.

If over 1 micron and above 250 ppm, then I'd have some concerns.
+1.... Last VOA I saw of Delo had 70ppm of moly and Rotella had none (which is why the 1800 riders often prefer Rotella).. Even Honda's recommended dino oil for everything before the 1800 (HP4 now called HP4M) had moly (about 300 ppm as I recall).. not until the 1800 did they take all the moly out..
 

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Well, I still use DELO 400 as I have in most everything I own that needs motor oil. None of the bikes I used it in had a clutch problem. I rode my '93 for 110,000 miles added to the 60,000 it had when I got it. when I sold it with a bit over 170,000 the clutch was working as nicely as it did when I got the bike. There was no detectable slippage even when speed shifting to chase my brother's BMW. A little bit of Moly doesn't seem to hurt. I think any wet clutch that has fiber plates isn't going to be hurt. If the clutch was metal to metal that might be a different thing though I wouldn't bet either way.

I wonder if I lubed my pistol barrels with MOLYif I'd pick up a few fps?:?
 

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I think you loose fps. Something about the way it changes the pressure wave. Them heavy-gun guys know more about that stuff than I though. Some of them barrels cost thousands...
 

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I have heard too many horror stories about transmissions and Moly...

I will say that I have been using the Guard Dog moly products for over a year now.

They are pretty entrenched within the Valkyrie crowd down here in Texas. I would also say that I am impressed. Somehow their products seem to be "meatier" and have more "body" than other brands I have seen. They have both a grease and a paste version. (I also like the idea that they are hand mixed, tested and distributed from Houston... a local business... relatively close by.)

Oddly, molybdenum as a elemental mineral ore, only has two or three sources worldwide. These locations seem adequate for extracting, processing and satisfying the entire world supply. I know there is a molydenum mine in Australia and there is another in northern New Mexico just west of Red River along the enchanted circle.

Guard Dog makes good stuff!
 

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I talked to a tech at Chevron and he told me that Delo LE had 90ppm of moly. He said Delo should not be used in a motorcycle and was really emphatic about it because itis not JASO MA rated. I told him motorcyclists have been using it for years and thousands of miles and love it, so he should tell whoever that it works fine in a motorcycle.
It is on sale at Walmart for $9.82 gal.
 

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I've only put about 17,000 miles on my 1800 (total of 77,000) so far the DELO I use hasn't damaged the clutch. Since it didn't hurt the 1500 I had in 110,000 miles I doubt it will bother the 1800 either.
 

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http://www.autosportcatalog.com/liqui-moly-store/liqui-moly-mos2-anti-friction-engine-treatment.cfm?green=26714654681



ztoolman

What do you think of this moly and the price? $6.99 for 1 -300ml(10.188oz) or 8.99 shipping for a case of 4 bottles. One bottle issupposed to be for one oil change. I called them and there was no info on ppm or anything so i am not sure how to compare theGuarddog product with this one. It is Lubro Moly but can be used in dino or synthetic oil. The guyI talked to has talked to the makers of Lubro Moly in Germany and still couldn't tell me much more than what was on thewebsite.

From what i read on the web, they are taking more and more zinc and moly out of the oils and thatwassupposed to help protect gears. I am not sure what is supposedto replace those ingredients and protect the gears now.
 

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Sure. Protect the gears, but ruin the clutch plates. Not saving any money there. Personally I'm leery of running much in the way of additives.
 

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well if what indianawantsme is saying is true that the are taking zink and moly out of oil now. it stands to reson that the oil's that where made when the wings where new had moly and zinc in them.
wilf
 
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