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'87 Interstate:

So I have the carbs off a couple of times, trying to figure out what's up with number two. It is flooding so much it won't run. I get it running and think all is fine. Except after a day of riding...

The bike starts running very badly, like it is out of sync. So I take it home, pull the lowers and stick the stix on it. Sure-nuff, it is more than out. It is OUT of sync. And it is the number 2 carb, now working but about four inches lower than the number 4. When the carb didn't work the sync was good, and I made it better when I re-installed them.

I have always had left/right balance issues with this bike, old and new carbs both, but never had any front/rear issues.

Anyway I put the carbs back into sync and went for a two day ride over to California, sorta just puttin' around the desert. By the time I was 15 miles into the trip, I was having sync issues again. I left it alone til I got home and put the stix on it again and found this:

The left pic is where the carbs were at first. I brought the sync back to what you see on the right, but will leave the stix on til tomorrow,check them again, and fine tune them.
 

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I suspect that ether the starter valve on #2 is sticking or the the choke is. Most likely it's the choke.

Another possibility is a sticking vacuum piston or damaged vacuum diaphragm.

steve
 

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Are you using a light oil in your manometer? If so small changes will show up big with your manometer. I think it is like 16 to 1 oil versus mercury respectively. It makes me wonder (like Sky said) if there isn't another issue with the bike that shows up on the manometer. I once had a car that would run on all 8 cylinders then run on 7 or 6 during acceleration. Turned out the high mileage motor had weak valve springs. As the RPM and oil pressure rose it pumped the weak valve springs open. Just because you see it with a manometer does not necessarily mean it is car related. The manometer measures venturi vacuum. It should be directly related to the power of that cylinder. If something affects the power of the cylinder changes the vacuum will also. Might be mechanical, electrical or whatever. I guess if it were me I would be careful not to lock on the carbs only. If the fouled plug cleans up it will affect the sync or vice versa. That is why you warm the engine before syncing carbs. Even why we blow the fan at the bike to simulate moving air as well as cooling the motor.



Hang in there. You'll get it. Hope this helps a little.
 

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I'd be checking the slider diaphragms for rips. That would kill your vacuum.
 

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Well !!! Looking at all your pictures i think i have figured out you problem ! With all the miles you have on Bike, it's too clean !!!! I mean waaaay to clean.You need some grime to seal up any leaks. :ROFL::ROFL::ROFL:

Jim
 

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Have you run a compression test on the engine? How many miles on the spark plugs? It would seem to me that best time to sync the carbs would be after a good tune up. Plugs, air filter, fuel filter.
Tom Bishop
 

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Tune up just completed, all new filters (OEM) andcarbs synced, etc. Never had the number 2 carb go out of sync like that before. Probably a bit ofsomething got stuck in the butterfly, or the throttle plate.

Compression (180 +/- 4) would be very good for an engine with 60 thousand miles on it. The fact that it has 260 thou...

Jim, you may have a point. I see all these other twelves with crud from stem to stern but they run just fine. My only defense is, Bike has been kept clean all its life. These carb problems have only been going on for the last 3 years.
 

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It's a shame you can just switch racks out with a correctly running 1200 just to be sure it's in the carbs. But i guess where else could it be ?

Is it just # 2 that's the problem now ???

Jim
 

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i may be wrong but the higher the liquid goes, is the more vacuum you have right? if the vacuum is being measured between the carbs and the combustion chamber, if there was a leak on the carbs somewhere in the carbs wouldn't that indicate lower vacuum instead of more?
 

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That's the way I always read them William... :gunhead:
 

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William and Shooter. The carb in question somehow developed a very bad vacuum leak, and made the bike run, well, like the carbs were way out of sync. That #2 tube was4 inchesbelow the rest of them. I adjusted the carbs to compensate and then whatever was causing #2 to be so low, corrected itself causing it to then be way high, like you see in the picture.

Clear as mud, right?
 

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...so what caused #2 to be low? ...and did you finish sync'ing them?
 

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The diaghpram in the vacuum slides is a good idea, but I thought you had already replaced those? Some kind of vacuum leak anyway.
Did you check out the single carb set up I showed you on eBay?
Tom Bishop
`98 S.E.
 

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My neighbor just picked up an 87 aspy in rough shape, but the motor runs good. Your bike is telling you that 24 years together is enough. Go out and buy a brand new Goldwing and sell us your bike for parts!!! hehehe :brokedown:
 

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Bike...and Dennis wrote:
Clear as mud, right?
CRYSTAL CLEAR... Isn't that a movie quote ? :gunhead:
 

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Bike...and Dennis wrote:
William and Shooter. The carb in question somehow developed a very bad vacuum leak, and made the bike run, well, like the carbs were way out of sync. That #2 tube was4 inchesbelow the rest of them. I adjusted the carbs to compensate and then whatever was causing #2 to be so low, corrected itself causing it to then be way high, like you see in the picture.

Clear as mud, right?
Actually, this makes a lot of sense. If the intake tract has an intermittent leak, then it would be impossible to set the balance. Could this be associated with the engine thermal cycle? I would do a propane intake leak check.
 

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Couldn't hurt to blow some propane around the intake tubes. The o-ring were re-used.
 

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Also check around the butterfly and choke valve shafts. The bushings in the valve bodies wear and can start leaking. Especially on high millage engines. One of the guys on HondaTwins.net proponents wrapping dental floss around the shafts to form a seal. I have never tried it but...
 

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Actually Dennis it is probably time to swap that system out with the upgraded Flux Capacitor. Hard to find though. You have to know somebody to get one. Unfortunately I don't know anybody. But I do know someone that heard of a guy installing one. :ROFL:
 

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Bike...and Dennis wrote:
The o-ring were re-used.
Is that a question?

#38 O-ringsare 69­¢ ea. @ Ace/True Value Hardware.
 

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