Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,931 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
imported post

It is probably just me becoming more aware of my wing, but I can now hear what sounds like a higher pitched rattle or clatter when accelerating. I worry about piston slap but it is probably the lifters. I can't tell. One of the reasons I went with the 1200 is because of the hyd lifters which I thought were pretty much maint. free.

Also at throttle float, I can feel an occasional vibration in the handlebars and in my seat-like something is tapping the bike- Drive chain slapping the casing???

On decel only, I can hear and feel yet another vibration which feels like U-joint or perhaps it is just engine braking from compression?

I guess all this noise talk has gotten me a bit paranoid. Do I just let things go along until I can make more definitive findings or what. Otherwise it seems to be running great. I pushed back the boot and tried to examine the U-joint and it seemed to be able to flop around from side to side but I could not feel any looseness in the actual joint bearings. How should it look and feel thru the boot hole?

Thanks
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,391 Posts
imported post

I would check the rear drive for wear. If it hasnt been lubricated properly the splines could be worn.
Very unlikely the universal.
CHeck the rear wheel bearing.

Piston slap? how many million miles you got on that engine? :shock:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,491 Posts
imported post

Hawker22 wrote:
It is probably just me becoming more aware of my wing, but I can now hear what sounds like a higher pitched rattle or clatter when accelerating. I worry about piston slap but it is probably the lifters. I can't tell. One of the reasons I went with the 1200 is because of the hyd lifters which I thought were pretty much maint. free.

Also at throttle float, I can feel an occasional vibration in the handlebars and in my seat-like something is tapping the bike- Drive chain slapping the casing???

On decel only, I can hear and feel yet another vibration which feels like U-joint or perhaps it is just engine braking from compression?

I guess all this noise talk has gotten me a bit paranoid. Do I just let things go along until I can make more definitive findings or what. Otherwise it seems to be running great. I pushed back the boot and tried to examine the U-joint and it seemed to be able to flop around from side to side but I could not feel any looseness in the actual joint bearings. How should it look and feel thru the boot hole?
Hawker22,,
It is probably just me becoming more aware of my wing, but I can now hear what sounds like a higher pitched rattle or clatter when accelerating. I worry about piston slap but it is probably the lifters. I can't tell. One of the reasons I went with the 1200 is because of the hyd lifters which I thought were pretty much maint. free.


That rattle could be the main drive chain as those do make noises as the bike is used more (not a big deal & a lot of the 1200's make that noise).. I doubt it's piston slap as that is usually a cold problem that decreases as the engine warms. It could be a lifter(s) noise but that is usually a lighter ticking noise than a heavy rattle. One thing to keep in mind: due to the fact that the engine oil also runs through the trans gears it shears to a lower viscosity as it works. As a general rule, due to that oil shearing the engine noisesincrease as the miles go over 1000 miles on an oil change.. Try an oil change using a good quality 20W50 oil & I'll bet your engine noises decrease somewhat.



Also at throttle float, I can feel an occasional vibration in the handlebars and in my seat-like something is tapping the bike- Drive chain slapping the casing???


Check the engine mount bolts for ALL being tight, look for a loose exhaust system (a very common cause of felt drivetrain vibration on the older Wings). Look for the center stand to be contacting something on the engine or exhaust.






On decel only, I can hear and feel yet another vibration which feels like U-joint or perhaps it is just engine braking from compression?


That engine is hard mounted (no rubber engine mounts) so there is some engine order induced vibration at certain load conditions.. You might also check the rear wheel rubber isolators for being worn out or missing (somewhat common problem on the early 1200 Wings), check for the swing arm being tight, look for loose final drive bolts. It could be a U-joint but a worn joint is usually an acceleration vibration issue.



I guess all this noise talk has gotten me a bit paranoid. Do I just let things go along until I can make more definitive findings or what. Otherwise it seems to be running great. I pushed back the boot and tried to examine the U-joint and it seemed to be able to flop around from side to side but I could not feel any looseness in the actual joint bearings. How should it look and feel thru the boot hole?
Those older Wings do seem to have a little noise at certain engine load conditions.. One thing I have noticed is that a lot of riders tend to lug the engines a little more than they should (those engines are revers not luggers).. As those little 4 cylinder engines are lugged they tend to be noisy & transfer the noise & associated vibrations into the bike chassis. Above 3000 RPM's under a light accel load it should pull pretty clean with little noise & vibration. Under 2500 in a higher gear & under an accel load the drive chain can rattle, the engine's 1st order vibration transfers through the drive shaft into the rear wheel, the trans gears tend to rattle, the power pulses become quite harsh.

You are doing right by addressing the bikes noises but use it a for awhile & get used to the inherent noisesbefore becoming overly concerned.

Twisty
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,931 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
imported post

tricky wrote:
I would check the rear drive for wear. If it hasnt been lubricated properly the splines could be worn.
Very unlikely the universal.
CHeck the rear wheel bearing.

Piston slap? how many million miles you got on that engine? :shock:

I just last week installed new rear wheel bearings and checked over all the rear stuff. The dampers were all great and the splines were well lubed and fine. The wheel now rotates well with no looseness at all. Thanks tricky, I liked the humour-only 125K kms on the engine so no SLAP, I guess. I guess that those sounds seem to be magnified when I am sitting right on top of it. GEE, I sure hope that bystanders cannot hear that shifting clunk as loudly as I do.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,491 Posts
imported post

Hawker22 wrote:
GEE, I sure hope that bystanders cannot hear that shifting clunk as loudly as I do.
Hawker22, that nasty clunk can be modulated to a very nice shift with a little practice.

Prior to the shift, place your foot tight to the shift lever & apply as much pressure as you can without actually shifting,, then as you throttle back & de-clutch it will slide into the next gear so sweet you will think it's a Harley.. With a little practice that preloading the shift lever can get you a very nice shift..

Twisty
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,931 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
imported post

twisty wrote:
Hawker22 wrote:
GEE, I sure hope that bystanders cannot hear that shifting clunk as loudly as I do.
Hawker22, that nasty clunk can be modulated to a very nice shift with a little practice.

Prior to the shift, place your foot tight to the shift lever & apply as much pressure as you can without actually shifting,, then as you throttle back & de-clutch it will slide into the next gear so sweet you will think it's a Harley.. With a little practice that preloading the shift lever can get you a very nice shift..

Twisty

Twisty: First, thank you for your great response above. I will try this technique first trip out tomorrow and let you know how it goes. I have been getting SOME good shifts but have not really thought about how I did it.

I will take you advice and just drive for some time and continue to be aware of all the noises. One final thing to ease my mind; when I watched the U-joint while my sig. other moved the rear wheel back and forth with the tranny in a gear, I detected no play in the joint itself, but I can move the shaft just foward of the U-joint up and down and sideways by a fair amount. So there is some lateral play to that shaft. Is that where the torque dampener is located, and in this attached pic(which I borrowed), is that a bearing at the aft end of that shaft, just aft of the spring. Just tell me that shaft is not supposed to be held rigid(but turnable)and I will be happy.

If the pic is not here, it is in the tear down thread.

Thanks a bunch for the great help.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,491 Posts
imported post

Hawker22 wrote:
One final thing to ease my mind; when I watched the U-joint while my sig. other moved the rear wheel back and forth with the tranny in a gear, I detected no play in the joint itself, but I can move the shaft just foward of the U-joint up and down and sideways by a fair amount. So there is some lateral play to that shaft. Is that where the torque dampener is located, and in this attached pic(which I borrowed), is that a bearing at the aft end of that shaft, just aft of the spring. Just tell me that shaft is not supposed to be held rigid(but turnable)and I will be happy.

If the pic is not here, it is in the tear down thread.

Thanks a bunch for the great help.
Hawker, that spring loaded dampener is inside the trans & all that sticks out is that short splined end. The rear of that dampener shaft is held in a large bearing so I doubt that dampener is your movement.

I can't really tell you how much jointmovement is allowed but some is normal as it is just pushed on that very short splined shaft so ANY spline wear or even normal fit will allow some vertical & lateral movement.

I would say that IF the output shaft was allowing very much movement you would have an oil leak at the rear trans shaft seal as that would allow the shaft to pull sideways on the seal & allow oil out.

That entire spring loaded shaft is the output shaft so it will have to be loose enough to turn easily.

Twisty
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,931 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
imported post

OK Twisty. I got the boot pushed ahead far enough to be able to see the end of the u-joint frontend and was able to feel that the splined end of the output shaft was indeed solid with no slop whatsoever(relief). I also reconfirmed that there was no slop in the u-joint itself. There is, however, a bit of looseness at the spline, allowing the whole assembly to be moved around a bit. I am assuming from your remarks that some looseness there is normal. There must not be any steady bearing on the shaft just aft of the u-joint, allowing that end to float. Hmmmmmmmm

But I was satisfied, so I smeared a little grease on the joint and buttoned her up--for the time being, and I will concentrate on finding something else to fret about.

Thanks Twisty and all.

Hawker22
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top