[playingotter]

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I rebuilt my starter. The one brush had bare wires on the hot side that had been arching on the cover (there was no sleeves on the wires) and one wire had only two strands left intact. I put it on this morning and tried it. The relay clicked a couple times and the starter turned the motor over nice and smooth then stopped. I tried to get it to turn over several more times but stopped when I saw smoke coming from the starter terminal. the wire had gotten so hot it started to melt the rubber boot. the starter housing was also hot . I have good continuity on the cable from the starter to the relay and the terminals were cleaned off. The battery had a full charge (and a low battery shouldn't cause the overheat issue). what do you think?

 

[Keno]

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OOOPPPS! You have a shorted starter. ( internal Postive to ground) Go Back! Hard to say where you will find it, but there should be evidence of a hot having touched ground.Been there Done that--Keno

 

[playingotter]

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Are you saying the short is in the starter or in the external wiring somewhere? Also , does this mean the starter is cooked? Thank you for responding.

 

[grambo]

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its might be physiclly binding ....but probably toast...did it spin like crazy when you bench tested it?

 

[playingotter]

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I did not bench test it after the rebuild. It spun normally (sound) when it turned over on the bike. I know the pistons are free (that was the first thing I did with the bike. It had sat for three years.) Also replaced the positive cable to the relay after checking all the wires for continuity and voltage. After freeing up the pistons and replacing teh cable the motor would turn over nice and strong but after about sx times the relay would only click. The battery was charged then as it is now. that is what led me to the starter rebuild (after reading a number of posts hear from a search)



I put in new bearings when I rebuilt it. when I took it apart I saw someone had worked on it previously, making punch marks in the housing and covers for alignment. I found the positive brush was seriously chipped and the wires were bare-no sheathing as it is supposed to have. One of the wires had only two strands left intact and the cover had evidence where the wires had arched

 

[jjones0187]

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I didnt see anything there about you replacing the selonoid, trust me I have been their just because that solenoid is clicking doesnt mean its transferring all the battery voltage to the starter, mine would transfer just enough to occasioally roll over the engine which overheated the starter, I replaced the selonoid with a $38.00 aftermarket and it works flawlessly, those starters are tough I thought I burnt mine up it melted all the casing that was on the wires and a set of brushes and it still works great since I replaced the selonoid.

 

[playingotter]

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thanks Jason. I took the starter apart and found the lead coming off the windings that screws to the hot brush is melted in two. No evidence of it grounding out, in fact I took a meter to the hot post and the casing before opening it up and there was no continuity at either the body or end caps. Do you believe the relay would cause this?

Thanks



Carmen

 

[gtracer3]

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Hey
I just had the same problem with my 1200. The starter stopped working. The selonoid would click and send 12 volts to the starter but it would not turn over. I tapped on the starter with a small hamer and it started once. I thought it had to be the starter. I took it off and to a rebuild shop.
The only thing they found was the positive brush was worn 2/3 more than the other one. They didn't think that would keep it from working but they rebuilt it anyway. (only $35)
They were right. The selonid would click and send 12 volts thru it a couple of times but then stopped all together.
It would have save me a lot of trouble taking the starter off if had quit sooner. LOL
At least I know the starter is almost new again.
Oh by the way my repair manual said that you have to pull the motor to change the starter. The manual was wrong.
It's true that the starter chain sprocket will swing out of line a little.
I had two plans place just in case to put the starter back in.
1. Put some wheel bearing grease in there to hold it in place and if that didn't work.
2. Drill the cover for a 3/8" pipe thread size then use a small rod thru the hole to line pu the sprocket from the rear.
The grease worked just find.
This forum is great. I read it even when I don't have a problem.
Thanks to all that post here.

 

[playingotter]

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Hey GT, so are you saying it turned out to be the solenoid ( starter relay)?

 

[jjones0187]

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if you have a known good starter then my next step would be replace the solenoid, and yes if the solenoid isn't transferring full power to the starter it will over heat the starter and usually melt the brushes and may damage other parts of the starter, try to test the starter to see how freely it spins before putting it on the bike if you havent already to see if its binding up, a battery with jumper cables is usually enough to test it careful though they alot of torque.

 

[playingotter]

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Thank you jason. I'll bench test it after I repair the broken lead. Question: the new solenoids I have looked at on ebay have the newer blade fuse. Does anyone know if everything else hooks up clean. Thanks



Carmen

 

[gtracer3]

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Hi sorry I haven't replyed before now. I've had a lot going on. I'm glad I have the bike to get away from the real world.

Well back to the starter. I'm not sure if the starter casued the solenoid to go out or the other way around.

The shop I took it to said there was a solder join meltedbut didn't think that alone would stop it from turning over.

I had the starter off the bike with a volt meter hooked to the main lead and got 12+ volts every time I pust the start button. It did not trun at all.

After the rebuild I tried it before putting it back on and then there was novolts thru the selonid. Timming is everthing. LOL

I replaced it with a new selonid offsome other kind of bike and had to do a rewire.

It works fine now.

I have a different issue now. When I had the shifter arm off I changed the seal. For the first 20 miles the neutral light would stay on. Now it comes onin neutal but also when pulling the clutch handle all the way closed. When I release the handlea littlethe green light goes off just before the clutch ingages. I can deal with it but it is starnge to seethe green lightcome on when I shift and pull the clutch most of the way.