Muffler replacement

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No, just clean the headers up and/or have them rechromed. The gaskets between pipe and muffler are the important part- dont want leaks.

PS Rusting means serious overheating.:shock:

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Dave is right... Just clean the headers and if there are no holes from rust through, just re-install to the new mufflers. There are two carbon sleeves that should be inside the muffler inlet pipes. Visually inspect them for breaks or damage.. Replace if damaged. I've only been able to get them at the Honda dealer.

Rusted exhaust pipes are common on any type of vehicle and it's basic cause is from heating and cooling of the metal exposed to the atmosphere. As the metal cools, moisture in the air condenses on it and rust begins. It continues as long as the metal is exposed.. Chroming helps a lot, but once the chrome either burns or wears off, it's all over..

Don't hesitate using the old headers. They'll last a very long time...

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Renegade wrote:

Don't hesitate using the old headers. They'll last a very long time...

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I thank you and my wallet thanks you! :clapper:

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I agree with the above posts. Just want to add that I have successfully used high temp RTV silicone in place of the expensive, easily damaged Honda graphite/wiremesh gaskets. The longest running silicone seal I installedhas lasted 3 years with no leaks.

Vic

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I've just acquired a very decent OEM muffler set for my 1984 Aspencade to replace the nosiy Jardine slip-ons. I made the decision to buy the necessary Honda parts just to be sure she's put back the way the book says. You might want to take the opportunity to clean up the non-chrome sections before putting the system on your bike. I scraped and cleaned the accumulated crud and then applied a couple of coats of flat black VHT paint. Looks alot better. The chrome was also polished up and while it does not look brand new, it does look good.

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I myself will be swapping these stockers out too, Hanging the stockers in the rafters of the shed and finding a nicer Loud set like some shotguns or drag pipes. But I will have to find something with the stock back pressure to avoid rejetting the carbs.

Dont want to pull those off again unless its absolutely necessary.

If someone has changed theirs without losing performance, Please let me know what type. I like the Harley tail ends I used to have but theyre quite extinct being from 1955 or so..

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Goldwinger1984 wrote:

I agree with the above posts. Just want to add that I have successfully used high temp RTV silicone in place of the expensive, easily damaged Honda graphite/wiremesh gaskets. The longest running silicone seal I installedhas lasted 3 years with no leaks.

Vic

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Silicone seal can withstand some pretty high temperatures. On a 582 Rotax exhaust system I ran a bead of silicone sealant down opposite sides of the retaining springs that hold the header pipe to the manifold in a ball and socket joint. I managed to slop a dollop of the stuff on the manifold. I decided to leave it there to see how it handled the high temp of the exhaust. The airplane I had the engine in had an EGT which showed normal operating temps of 1100F, but the silicone just stayed there, stuck to the manifold and never showed any deterioration for over 500 flying hours. I can't think of any reason the stuff wouldn't work.

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exavid wrote: On a 582 Rotax exhaust system --- The airplane I had the engine in ....

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You must be into ultra-lights. I built two of them.

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Actually, exavidwrote that. I just wrote about the hi temp silicone.

Vic

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Just watch for two things that kill Gl mufflers, riding in wet locations without getting it good and hot, and not cleaning and waxing (or whatever) the back sides of the mufflers. Good idea to remove saddlebags trunk and seat every year and clean and wax (or whatever coating you use.) ive got a 84 in the shop right now with the entire system ruined (header rusted through at joint and rusted cases) $$$$$$$$$$$$$$