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I know it's best to try to stay specific but untill I learn my way around I was hoping I could find a little help all in one place

I have a 1986 GL1200 Aspencade, it has 65K on it and I have had it for a couple years now,, my first GoldWing by the way :)

I changed the oil and followed my local Honda shops suggestion (first mistake) personaly it didn't sound right to me but they suggested 5W20 for it.

well I immediately noticed a prob with the clutch, it started letting out kinda high on the lever, also the leaks I had just fixed with new valve covers started back up :X I did change the oil back to the 15W40 that it should have been BUT I still have the clutch prob. when cold it slams into first and second then gets better as the bike warms up, if I throttle it aggressively it will slip a little

I am going to change the fluid and bleed it out as I read on another forum here, I think the spray bottle for a poor mans vac is an excellent idea. Is there anything else I should look for

The other thing is it has always been cold natured, and I mean real cold natured but now I have to run the choke about 1/2 on unless I'm running over 3rd gear as it wants to shudder and skip real bad at low RPMS, I ran some inj/carb cleaner in my gas and it got better but it's still there,,,,, what is this I read about draining the far right carb, our last trip to the north Ga mountains scarred the bejezzes out of me as I would drop into the turn hit the throttle and it would want to fall on it's face :shock:any thoughts on that one would be greatly appreciated

Sorry for being so long winded
 

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your carbs may need some cleaning, about the clutch, check the lever sometimes it sticks and causes the clutch to slip
 

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Run some Sea Foam through a couple of tanks of fuel to see if that helps your carbs out, they also may need to be synced.
 

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Welcome AJ.
First thing if you put 5/20 oil in it it was most likely an energy conserving type oil with friction modifiers that will coat the clutch disks and cause slippage.
About the clutch bleeding, air in the clutch system will NOT cause slipping.......
On the lean running, check the pumps where you get fuel and be sure it does not have any alcohol in it.
 

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Thanks, on the clutch bleeding, my thoughts were to replace the fluid as a maintenance item, I don't know if it's ever been done before I bought the bike. I read about adding MMO to the oil to possibly help with clutch issues, what is MMO

Oh and I just remmebered, the ele fuel pump is making a clicking noise, I think the running weird started when that happened. I prob should take it and get the pressure checked. I can say there is no alcohol in it, well except the up to 10% ethonol used here in all gas
 

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Yes changing the clutch fluid is a good idea along with the rest of the fluids. Marvel Mystery oil(MMO) is some pretty good stuff, if the clutch problem is because of the oil I don't know if it would help but it won't hurt. The fuel pump is supposed to make a clicking noise as it pumps but should stop after a few seconds when you turn it on and only make an occasional click when it's running. Even 10% ethanol will cause a lean condition an something that is on the verge of too lean already.
 

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So if the ethanol is making it run lean, what would be the best action to correct it. I have noticed, this morning actualy, that it is worse the colder it is outside. the warmer it is the faster the bike warms up and the skipping/surging at low RPM almost goes away and I can shut the choke off, if it's coldit seems to never warm up enough to go away and when I get into traffic I have to use the choke more

On the fuel pump it clicks all the time, not fast but it never stops, sometimes it will have long durations between but it doesn't stop. this is a new thing as it never did it till recently

OK Marvel oil, got it, say a qt with the nomal oil.

Thanks for all the input and suggestions, I really appreciate it

I have a lot of years as a mechanic, and have worked on many bikes, but this one is different, a bit more to it than I'm used too. But I'm learning
 

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marvel mystery oil MMO.... pinging is probably just bad gas,
sounds like you have an idle jet that is not working right, another carb trick is to drain the carbs, mix 50:50 gas and carb cleaner, let this sit for several hours, drain (and just toss into the tank) refill with gas and run it
 

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Seafoam in the oil will help clear up the clutch. Do a search on this site and follow the general directions. You don't want to leave it in for too long. I would also go back to a 10-40 motorcycle oil either dino or synthetic.

I'm not familiar with the 1200 but if it has carbs I would do the following: richen the pilot jet circuit a bit and see what happens. Try 1/2 a turn out on each carb and go from there. I'm not sure what you have the idle set at but run it a little higher say 1050-1100 range. This also seems to help with low speed issues.
 

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AJ, on the fuel pump clicking, have you changed your fuel filter lately? The fuel pump will also click when starved for fuel. This may explain why you need to use the choke. It might be time to clean the crud out of the jets and carbs. All the other suggestions here are great.
 

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Funny you should mention the fuel filter, I had thought it was possible the filter was glogging up, I bought a new filter the other day but haven't put it on yet

I raised the idle to right around 1080 but sometimes it wants to go up to 1140 or so depending on the outside temp, I need to tweek it some more but it did help both with the low RPM issue and the shifting, but it's still not right

I will research the seafoam in oil, I like the sounds of clearing up this prob, I don't like the clutch catching at the top like it is, so 10W40 is the best oil, I thought synthetic oil is what got all this started, Oh I just reread that part, friction inhibitors was the possible culprit, would they put friction inhibitors in motorcycle oil, the oil I bought was specificly for motorcycles


I will change the fuel filter, change clutch fluid and bleed the system and change the oil and readjust the idle this weekend and see what happens

Again thanks to all
 

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A fuel filter clogging up will make the idle go up and down as well. Try that first and change these every year to be safe. For the oil, I've used 10W-40 since mine was brand new in early '88, but have switched brands now and then. The best thing for mine is Castrol Syntec 10W-40. The clutch works better and the occasional lifter ticking went away. Clutch and brake fluids will get moisture so change them out too. My clutch fluid looked like mud last time.
 

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Well I changed the fuel filter, readjusted my idleand flushed out the old clutch fluid, man was that stuff nasty :shock:I tryed the spray bottle trick but couldn't get it to work for me, so I just let gravity do it's thing. I'm not sure as I haven't ridden it yet but the clutch seemed to feel better

Now I have a whole new problem

I gassed up yesterday morning and on the way to work I noticed my auto shut off for the blinkers wasn't working,,, then I noticed the auto volume on the radio wasn't working,,,, then the speedo wasn't working :?I have checked all the fuses that I know of and all are good,, well except the one that says parking, it has no power on it at all in the fuse box :baffled:I don't even know where to begin looking for this

is it possible that it's just coincidence that all 3 things quit working at the same time or is there something I don't know about that I can check
 

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The speedometer not working will cause the auto volume and cancel to not work also since they receive a speed signal from the speedometer. I don't know a lot about 1200s, do they have a cable drive speedo or an electric speed sender?
Someone else will know about that.
 

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I see, OK that makes sense
Now I just need to find out if it's cable or sensor and where it is. I feel better now, at least I know which direction to go
Thanks David
 

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Your Aspy has a speed sensor. It is a little black box, behind the axle, on the left fork leg.
 

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Thanks, I just did a search and found how to test the sensor, so I will do that and check the gear in the wheel
as well
Thanks again, you guys are great
 

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Do you have to remove the from wheel to get the speed sensor off to test it
 
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