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A poorboy coversion allows you to never again worry about regulator failure or voltage supply issues,And if you ever had a alternator failure its only a 15 min changeout.
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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If the paint is still on the engine then just clean it with 409, or your favorite, cleaner. I had pretty good luck just touching up spots where the paint was scratched or chippedwith a touch-up paint brush. After proper prep, of course.
 

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If you want it original, then replacing the stock stator is the only way to go. Beyond replacing the completely rotted seat and backrest, and the windshield which was turning to dust after 25 years out in the AZ sun, I am not doing a cosmetic restoration. I want mine to be reliable so I can take trips on it, and the charging system is the one big problem I have left with it. The stator tests fine, and is charging the battery fine. I cut out all the plastic connectors, which were fried, between the stator and regulator/rectifier, and soldered all the wires together, and separated them as much as possible. Even after doing that, the regulator/rectifier was running red hot, hot enough to melt the insulation off any wires that touched the case, and it's even hardening the insulation on the wires coming out of the R/R itself, through a rubber connection. All grounds are good. The R/R tests good. I have rigged up a blower fan and some ductwork under the fake tank to blow large amounts of air directly on the R/R to help cool it down, and it has definitely helped, but I figure running as hot as it does, it's only a matter of time until the R/R or the stator fails, and when it does, I will either get a poorboy kit, or rig up something similar myself. I would love to have a controlled output automotive style alternator, it would permanently eliminate all my charging system problems, and if it SHOULD fail at some point, it would be a really simple job to replace. Plus it puts out about 55 amps, enough to run all sorts of lights and gadgets, or in my case, electric clothing.
 

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mobiewan wrote:
Paint the engine?? There's not much oxidation on the engine. What kind of buffing wheel should I start with. It sure would be an easy time to get that looking pretty since it's sitting high and proud on the stand that formerly held my drill press - not sure which was heavier - the drill press or the motor - YIKES. I have a vibratory bowl coming from HF - thinking that all the bolts will go in there with the crushed walnuts that a friend has left over from his 240Z restore.
Now that's an idea....Have you used a vibrating bowl for hardware before? Bolt heads are always the biggest pain for me on resto work. PITA to wire wheel, clean, and paint. They always seem to rust pretty quickly.
 

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There is a clear coat on the engine cases that breaks down and looks like oxidation. I used paint strpper and a home made scotch brite wheel to clean them up.They have a long way to go but i thought a major improvement.
Should be a lot easier with the enging off the bike.

Jim
 

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$500 is not too much. It looks pretty rust free judging by the fork tubes. Just dirty looking.

The best place to get spare parts, is another junker bike. Cheaper in the long run. Plus, you can look at the spare bike to see how parts are oriented.
 

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BigDogDaddeeoh
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Discussion Starter #28
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what is it? Is that the external alternator gizmo? What I've read about that doesn't make me comfortable - BESIDES I already have the stator out!
 

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BigDogDaddeeoh
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Progress is slow. But got the engine out with the help of my neighbor's strapping sons. Stator is in and the engine is cleaned up. In some ways I feel like I've coasted to the bottom of the hill on this journey and now it's time to climb up. So whereas technically it's halfway since I'm REASSEMBLING - I realize it's going to be an uphill climb. Friend lent me a blast cabinet and I bought a vibrating bowl. Wow, what a difference those two pieces of equipment make.
 

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BigDogDaddeeoh
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Discussion Starter #30
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muffler before
 

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BigDogDaddeeoh
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Discussion Starter #31
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after :applause:
got the covers off with an impact wrench - took some effort and some PB blaster - but I think it was worth the effort. A couple applications of RUSTECO and some elbow grease with the SOS pads - I've ordered some new SS socket head screws to replace the philips head ones that came off.
 

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BigDogDaddeeoh
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Discussion Starter #32
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pipes before
 

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BigDogDaddeeoh
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Discussion Starter #33
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pipes after
ok
I did use the bead blast on this a bit.
anything else I should do before putting the exhaust back together? I cleaned the clamps - shoulda put them in this pic. And I ordered the gaskets - looks like 1/3 of a toilet paper tube. Am I missing anything?
 

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BigDogDaddeeoh
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Discussion Starter #34
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I'm stumped on the timing belt cover.
It was pitted so I bead blasted it and in doing so it appeared that I was removing a plastic film. The result is a dull finish - so I'm not sure I did myself any favors. I've removed the rubber edge washer and there's some residual glue. I'd like to shine them up - but I'm not sure what to try next. I'd hate to paint them. If I buff them with rubbing compound will that bring them back to shine? Anyone have any ideas?
 

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It aint rocket science
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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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Use some paint stripper on the belt covers and then sand to get most of the pits out. Mother's aluminum polish is going to be your best friend after that. I just learned about it and it's great stuff.

I just redid my belt covers, for the second time, but just sanded and coated with clear. Polish could give them a chrome finish, but I like the softer look. More like the fork tubes.



 

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The stock stator puts out about 325 wattsat 3000rpm (about 23 amps at 14volts). That's plenty to run the bike and charge the battery. If your not planning on hanging additional lights on it or wearing heated clothingthen the stock stator is fine. The regulator and rectifier can be upgraded to a current design as used in the CBRR's and other bikes. My stock units died so I went with this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHINDENGEN-MOSFET-FH012AA-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-KIT-?cmd=ViewItem&hash=item53e70b7658&item=360358573656&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr. Itruns a lot cooler andthe voltagebarely variesat RPM. It's a bit bigger than stock so it took some head scratching before I could get it situated under the left shelter cover. It was easy to wire. IMHO an excellent upgrade.
 

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Welcome from a flat lander.. looks like you got a great deal . A little time and cash will give you a great cruiser. NH is a beautiful place for cruising. Im up there every week to get the misses her cigs. Some day we can hook up and go for a cruse .. Post pictures on your progress , like to see how you do.:waving:
 
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