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Just Winging It
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3,327 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My GL1200I 1986 with less than 90,000 Has had these things done to it lately by myself with my wife's help:
Head gasket
Water pump
Fuel pump
Fork oil change
cleaned with sealmate (homemade)
Tires (farmed out)
Oil change with seafoam x3 filter x2 last 400 miles
Wires 3 from stator 2 at main bypassed with inline fuse 14.8 - 14.2 at battery
New thermostat and coolant
Airfilter

But now the oil smells like gas and I don't want to rebuild the carbs right now besides I don't know how to rebuild them let alone synchronize them with a manometer yet. Funny thing about that is:
Experience is something you need before you get it.
Anyway, I ran some seafoam in the tank like this:
I dumped some in the tank as if I was pouring a shot at a time so maybe 2 or 3 ounces. Then filled the half full tank with premium unEthanol for the next few tanks. There is one place around here that has/had 87 regular unEthanol but they did not have it last couple times I've been there. They say they ordered it.:? I usually run the cheapest in town at TallFart.

I have a Gas smell in my oil. Should I ignore it?

I am trying to check my mpg. I will post it. I'm thinking about carrying some gas so I can run out to get a correct #.

Should my oil smell like gas?

I want to ride NO need to ride this is my/our car most of the year. (wife likes to ride more than me, probably a good thing cause, I like to drive)

I should ignore the gas smell in my oil because the bike wont explode. Right?

Besides it will just help clean the engine.

This bike is just 27 years old this July 23 according to the stamp on the right side of the engine. I'm just 32 and would like to keep riding this bike if the Lord allows until I'm in my 80's.

The engine could use a good cleaning. Right?
So a little gas is OK at least that is what I keep saying right or wrong.

Why does my oil smell like gas? Is that a good sign? I changed the oil about 200 miles ago.

Please help me fix this cheap as I am poor monetarily speaking. Like "I ani"t got no bunch of money to fix this with."

I have gone about 86 miles according to my tripometor. I have less than a half tank according to my gauge. Google says it was 106 mile plus I came home from getting fuel about 10 miles.

I don't know if I should even worry about it. But I am.

Perhaps someone will know what to do.:praying::praying::praying::praying::praying::praying::praying::praying::praying::praying::praying::praying::praying::praying::praying::praying::praying::praying::praying::praying::praying::praying::praying:
 

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**DO NOT IGNORE IT** If you do in fact have gas in the engine oil and you continue to run it you are setting yourself to destroy the engine. The gas thins out the oil and it will no longer lubricate as it should and the engine internals ie. bearings, crank and cam faces etc. etc. will wear rapidly but worse than that you could experience a hydolock situation and end up bending a rod(s). The only way gas can get into the crankcase oil is via a bad or stuck float valve (s) in the carbs. You will have to pull the carbs and address that issue. In the meantime make sure that you keep the gas turned off when stopped. And drain the crankcase and replace with fresh oil. If it was my bike I would not drive it again until it is repaired properly.
 

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1,232 Posts
I would change the oil ASAP ( you need to spend that money now) as the engine could have a major failure due to lack of lubrication. Providing your gas tap ( petcock) is working correctly you should be able to use the bike as long as you shut off the fuel every time you stop it. You need to check the oil daily and make sure that there is no fuel contamination still happening if it is you have to stop using your bike until you can service the carburettors.
 

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3,073 Posts
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Yup, get it fixed. Gas in oil is bad.

.
 

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Premium Member
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2,790 Posts
exactly what type of fuel pump did you replace yours with(part # ?)

its possible the pressure is too high and fuel is getting past the floats flooding engine
 

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Premium Member
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2,295 Posts
+1 for all of this.

If you don’t have the money to do fix this now, when will you have the money to replace your engine?

You need only forget to turn off your fuel one time overnight or over a day or so and when you hit that magic point of hydro lock, you will destroy you engine with a simple push of the start button.

Removing and cleaning the carbs only takes time. Individual o-rings (quality Honda ones) are cheap enough. There are many guides on how to do this. I did mine on my 1500 never having touched a carb before.

If you don’t have the money now, shut the fuel off and walk away for a bit. Curiosity may have killed the cat but impatience kills Wings. We see it all the time here.

Tim.
 

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Administrator
1987 GL1200 Interstate
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23,325 Posts
Yeah, all of the above. Especially the fuel pump.

Make sure your petcock is working first. Many don't at this age. If it's doing its job correctly you can run the bike without a fuel pump for a while to see if gas is still getting in the oil. If it does, that would indicate a float that doesn't.
It shouldn't be a problem with gravity feed, but you have to remember to fill up at 1/2 tank intervals and not tighten the fuel cap.
 

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Just Winging It
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3,327 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I checked the oil level a few minutes ago without starting and it shows midway between the marks. I also held a lit lighter under the dip stick for a second or so and the oil didn't catch fire.

But alas it does undeniably smell like gas.:sadguy:

The fuel pump is a 3-5 psi I could not see the model # but it has been on there for over a year with no issues that I am aware of I would think I would have noticed. Maybe not though.

I didn't drain the carbs last winter probably should have.

Can I just pull the carbs (a link to instructions would be helpful) Pull the float bowls pull the float and clean the needle and seat with carb cleaner (check float height Any tips would be good) and reassemble without any new parts? Like I do with my lawn mower carb. The carbs seem to be working well other wise.

I'll start reading the book see if I can figure out how to get them out probably a good time to lube the throttle cables.
Off to find my book and get educated.
 

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Mine was full of gas when I bought it too. The guy before me did real bad job adjusting the floats, and pinched 3 of the slide rubber diaphragms putting the tops back on the carbs.. I straightened all of this out, and she runs great now. Glad I went threw the carbs. instead of monkeying around for weeks with them. I sync them also, here's my video of balancing a nickel. The clicking was my fuel pump, i rebuilt that also to get rid of the clicking.
 

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Premium Member
1985 GL1200 A
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953 Posts
**DO NOT IGNORE IT** If you do in fact have gas in the engine oil and you continue to run it you are setting yourself to destroy the engine. The gas thins out the oil and it will no longer lubricate as it should and the engine internals ie. bearings, crank and cam faces etc. etc. will wear rapidly but worse than that you could experience a hydolock situation and end up bending a rod(s). The only way gas can get into the crankcase oil is via a bad or stuck float valve (s) in the carbs. You will have to pull the carbs and address that issue. In the meantime make sure that you keep the gas turned off when stopped. And drain the crankcase and replace with fresh oil. If it was my bike I would not drive it again until it is repaired properly.
+1

No, no, no....did I mention, NO! Rebuild the carbs. You've got carb float "needle valves" that are not seating.
 

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Just Winging It
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3,327 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Here's what I've done I shut off the petcock and drained the carbs. Then took the intake manifolds off. The left front valve is a lot cleaner than the others and the spark plug was light grey. There was a drip welling up on the carb. All the other carbs did not have a drip welling up. I wiped the inside of the carbs free of gas then used some clean plastic under each carb so I could see if it dripped. I turn the fuel on and the pump for 5 minutes an hour latter I put it on the side stand. An hour latter still no drips or gas welling. The tank is full.

The gas smell is not strong and the oil level has not changed.

This is my plan: put sea foam in the oil ride the 10 miles to town get oil while there (it's like 10 miles one way) Change the oil when I get home. Shut gas off when not in use till I can rebuild the carbs right so:

I need to know what to buy to rebuild these carbs for the long haul. GL1200I 1986 Seals gaskets?

Is there a how to step my step? Beside the manual :bowing:
 

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1985 GL1200 A
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953 Posts
Recommend Randakk's carb rebuild kit for your carbs. Don't think I'd put SeaFoam in the crankcase. Yes, there are good videos for doing that carb rebuild. Others smarter here can hook you up with them. Good luck!
 

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Junior Grue
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8,153 Posts
If you have gasoline in the oil it's already thinned. Adding Seafoam will just thin it further making the likelihood of bearing damage greater.

Draining and replacing the oil should be the first thing you do.
 

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Just Winging It
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3,327 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Drove without adding sea foam. Changed oil some little bits of black plastic came out not much and really small pieces Oil was black But crank case looks pretty clean from what I could see though the fill hole. Only 200 miles on that oil.
(I'm not having good luck with oil I changed the oil to start riding and got water in it twice this year Then the gas leaked):sadguy:

The oil didn't smell much like gas after draining. Must not have been a lot that leaked.

I want to rebuild my carbs and tune them up any videos or other info would be great.

Thanks for all the info already. I'm reading the owners manual I never got one before. Even though the manual says the manual should remain with the bike.:wtf: It's only been 27 years.:?

I'll try to take pictures of my rebuild But first I need info I may already have enough but more is better. I will read now. I'll keep ya'll posted.

P.S. The owners manual say shut gas off when not riding. I will do that until I rebuild and tune up. What tools may I need besides the basics?

 

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Premium Member
1985 GL1200 A
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953 Posts
That's good that you didn't smell much gas in the oil. Less likelihood of bearing damage Ken referred to.

We all have our favorite "tools" for carb work, but the most important is one you can't buy and can't put in your toolbox. It's a combination of a gentle touch + patience. You're dealing with soft brass and cast aluminum, not steel or iron. Use NO metal tools on carbs. Those apertures are the size they are for good reasons.

My favorite carb cleaning tools? A couple of "Firm" toothbrushes and a selection of vinyl guitar string cutoffs.:?
 

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Just Winging It
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3,327 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I like the vinyl guitar strings great tip.++++++++++++++++++++
 

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Just Winging It
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3,327 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I've done carbs on lawn mowers and some other bikes. I fixed some and messed up some. I would be very sad If my bike ran worse after I rebuild and tune it up. I need to feel informed. The biggest part will be cleaning. Keep parts separated. DO NOT DISASIBLE WHAT SHOULD BE LEFT TO GET HER.

Gentile plus good tools + :praying: NO I mean: :praying: + Gentile but firm + Good crisp tools.

I rebuilt the carb on a cm400e and the gap in the rings lined up on the piston and I fixed that prepared but waiting to order parts till I found the problem: the lined up gaps in the rings on the piston.

I am capable but ignorant.

Tips on rebuilding carbs Please.

Tips on tuning carbs.
:praying::praying::praying: Will I be able to make things better not worse. With God help any thing is possible.
If only my wing would fly:ROFL:
 

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Just Winging It
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
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