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So after riding my bike for a year or so, I started having problems with the charging system. I researched and researched and researched some more. Checked my plug from stator, and sure enough it was burnt. Checked my voltages from stator, and 1 leg of it was garbage. Ohm'ed it out, bad stator. I decided to save me some money and do my own poor boy mod. I found a great alternator for an excellent price (DB Electrical AND0525 Alternator $70 with a 1 year warranty). I found a 4 inch v-belt pulley from MSC (TB woods v-belt $14). I also decided that since I would be at the timing belts, I ordered new timing belts.
I tore into the old girl one weekend, stripped her down. After removing the timing covers, I put in the new timing belts, got a new, longer bolt for the crank. After placing the new v-belt pulley on the crank, I trimmed the timing covers back to allow clearance for the new pulley. Then I kinda got crazy, I decided to mount my alternator above the left head. I made a homemade slide bracket, for adjustment of belt if needed and placed a piece of all thread through my left crash bar(the crazy part I know) Drilled out the old radiator mounts and replaced them with some all thread also. Went to my local auto parts store and got a 31 inch v-belt (probably could have gotten away with 30"). After test fitting and more test fitting I was able to get the radiator to clear. Then, using my harbor freight heat gun, I slowly heated the fairing to bend it back and fit over the alternator. I wired the alternator up by just using 1 wire, directly to the battery. Once it was all said and done, I had a perfect charge for my bike.
I have now had the alternator on for close to a year and I have had no problems. There is a very slight whining noise at idle but I don't care because I know it is working. All together, I spent a little over $125 on the mod and a full weekend. If I had to, I would do it again.
I just wanted show a cheaper alternative for people who might be facing the same problem and on a tight budget.
 

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:claps: and bravo for a job well done.

earns you a 5 star thread rating and a bookmark for 1200 poor boy mods...

great pictures, so others should be able to follow you.


You did not show how you supported the rear of the alternator?
surely you did not depend on just the single mounting point thru the crash guard?

hope you have pictures of the rear of the alternator after install.

.
 

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The only thing I might have done different is to make a mount for the bottom bolt on the alternator out of angle iron, and run the bolt for the engine through that instead of the engine guard. I believe it's the left engine support bolt.

However, if your happy with it that's the main thing. I agree, if I ever buy another 1200, thats the first thing I'll do. I did mine last summer. Probably good for 1000's and 1100's too.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You did not show how you supported the rear of the alternator?
surely you did not depend on just the single mounting point thru the crash guard?

hope you have pictures of the rear of the alternator after install
I used a slide bracket from an older chevy truck, attached it to a small piece of angle iron and placed it above the alternator. Unfortunately, I did not take a picture of that but I will get one and add it to it.
 

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OK that's nice work, a few questions to clear up things. how big was the hole through the pulley 1/2" or 5/8" ? put some kind of bushing in it to fit the crank bolt through? 1/2" is SOOOO CLOSE to 15/32" that the Crankshaft bolt is, I mean, what is that minuscule amount... ? did the pulley on the crankshaft need to have washers under it to space it out some from the timing belt covers, if so, ? Trial and error? The pulley important, I am trying to get everything set up/ready for WHEN (not if) the time comes and the thing goes out... as it seems to "act funny" now, per the volt gauge... I think?


the GEO Metro Alt is 55amps and the same price, refurbished on E bay. amps x volts=WATTS. stock alternator puts out 360 watts, the geo metro puts out ... 660 watts. will have to cut off the back mounting thing on the back of that alternator, just have to cover the alternator up with a trash bag/duct tape to keep cuttings out and that makes it non returnable. But IF it ever does go out, can carry new brushes on the bike, cant take but 45 minutes to put new brushes in it and or diodes. take longer to take the side cover off and alternator off than to actually fix the working parts of the alternator... or take it to the alternator shop, pay them ~$35 to clean it up, check it out, put new brushes in it. will need a HF grinder and cut off wheels anyway (~$30) for the work, cut off wheels are like $6 for 10 at HF online? Grinder ~$20, less with coupon, get 2 of them, one as a grinder and the other as a cut off wheel saw...


CHECK GRINDING/cut off wheels BEFORE EVERY USE, let it spin for a min before first application to the metal, spinning so if it flies apart, it does NOT hit anything important or SOMEONE. Femoral arteries tend to bleed out quick when hit with a broken grinding/cut off wheel/anything. safety glasses AND FACE SHIELD when grinding, I try to turn the grinder so IF it does fly apart, hopefully the parts wont hit me... in the head or the FEMORAL artery/eyes.


U removed the lower radiator mounts and bolted in all threads to get the radiator out that extra ~1"? is it 1" or is it less? still had to remove the one leg of the fan on the lower left side of the fan support? trim the leading edge of the fan a little bit and PUSH the fan a little closer to the radiator? I like the idea of drilling the crash bar for the all thread...I think? I thought the original plan was to use a piece of 1" angle iron with 2 holes drilled in it, one to mount to the motor, above the timing belts, and the other for the bolt hole to mount the bottom of the alternator? I suppose the measurement of the hole in the motor guard is... a trial and error thing, to get the alternator out past the motor just so?


a picture and MEASUREMENTS (including where the alt adjustment is to be welded on the bracket) of the upper bracket/alternator adjustment would make all the difference to us people that are seriously contemplating this modification; although, a person could probably just figure it out when they do it. have to cut out that diagonal brace and put in a piece of metal that is ... ~ 1.5" wide, ~8' long and 1/8-3/16" thick, with 2 holes in it for the 2 bolts sticking down under the fairing and then the alt adjustment slotted piece of metal is... 2" long? with 1.5" of adjustment? or is that too much. how thick is that piece? 1"... 1.5"? with the slot cut in the middle of it the size of the upper bolt of the alternator we get ~3/8-10mm, y/n?


The less that is left to CHANCE the (much) better is our success and less frustration in putting it together... and trips to the welder halfway across town. don't want to "reinvent the wheel"... too many times.


MSC INDUSTRIAL SUPPLY
Brand: TB Wood's,
Mfr Part #:
AK 4112 Item #82223306 1/2" BORE, 4" OD, 1-5/32 thickness through the bolt hole, NO KEYWAY for woodruff key (if that is important, I don't think so, if the bolt on the end of the crank is TIGHT with BLUE threadlock on clean threads) ~$14 + s/h . I think this is IT!!!! 1/2" bore is SO CLOSE to the 15/32" that I have read is the size of the hole that needs to be drilled through spacer washers put on either side of the pulley. one to space it out, just SO, and the other to hold the front of the pulley on. the thickness of that one is probably not that important. the inner one... space to fit to clear the timing belt covers... after drilling the appropriate size hole for the pulley snout in the timing covers.


AK4158
or AK411 3.95" OD, $16.xx/ 5/8" bore will need to be made smaller to 15/32"




AK4178 3.95" OD, 7/8" BORE, (too big?). 1 5/32" thickness through the pulley bolt hole


BK4558 4.25 OD, 5/8" bore, 1-3/16" through bore hole (thickness thru bolt hole) $17.60





 

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Discussion Starter #8
OK that's nice work, a few questions to clear up things.




Slow down there buddy. I did this mod over a year ago and I just decided to share my process. EVERYTHING I did was trial and error, because there were no exact threads of what I was doing.

Yes I trimmed the fan blades ever so slightly to clear
Yes I added spacers on my pulley
I bought the 5/8 pulley and put 2 plastic 3/8 fuel line disconnect tools. By fitting them over my new bolt, it created a spacer and plastic groove for my pulley so it wasn't metal on metal. Sounds wierd, I know. I would show you but unless I have a problem, I will not be tearing my bike all the way back down again to take a picture, sorry.
Yes the all thread was trial and error but with drilling in the engine guard you need to measure 16 times and drill once!

Trial and Error and a little creativity is what got it done. Hope that helps
 

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seneca8808

I was all primed for the follow up questions when I saw your new thread/post :rofl:

and my chuckles of mirth were not for naught either.....

Loved Scott's retort, that you should have made up a 100 page binder with 1,000 pictures to show each detail as you sorted it all out. :rofl:

Folks, sometimes, what we see, is all we are going to get....

would we have liked more? yeah, is every one as single minded as Gary over on goldwingdocs.com with his superior engineer's point of view towards documentation?

No, and few of us ever will be... Gary is a practicing engineer, so he does what he does.
 

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Very innovative! I have been bookmarking various pages and threads regarding the alternator conversion just in case there comes a day. Will be keeping this one as well. Congrats!!

Ernest
 

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Very innovative! I have been bookmarking various pages and threads regarding the alternator conversion just in case there comes a day. Will be keeping this one as well. Congrats!
Me too:wink2: ..... but pics don't "open up" for me?:frown2:
 

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I got my crank pulley at an alternator shop, if thirty bucks is a good price. I doubt that though. I used a new v-belt alternator. After I measured I came up with 2.65 inches as the largest pulley I could use and still get the inner cover bolt passed the pulley. People will jump in and say that is not big enough. I don't live in the city though. If you plan on being stuck in traffic for great length's of time with the headlight on, I'd say go bigger. I raised the idle to 1100 rpm to help with the charging rate at idle.

The problem is, there is no standard pulley, and depends on the alternator pulley you use.
 

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I don't get pics either. I thought it was based on a newby constraint. I see we need 15 posts to post a classified. Is there a constraint with photos? Thx, JD
make another post and then go back and see if the pictures show up.
if they don't, give me a phone call and I will work with your setup.
 

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Since I cooked a brand new stator last summer, (Got a whole whopping 137 miles on it before it keeled over) I'm going that route also. I plan on going with the internal voltage regulator unit also. My question is- what to do with the current voltage regulator already on the bike. Do you leave it in or remove it? In my searches on doing the poorboy, no one has said what to do with it.

And has anyone used a Weasler Engineering pulley? Those are available at Tractor Supply. What's slick about those, is that you pick your sizes, and weld them together.
 

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I too have long been planning to install a 55 Amp car Alternator (like a PoorBoyMod). Looks like I'm gonna be staying in the house out of public and away from germs if possible for the most part this winter (excellent prognosis, just have to avoid certain risks) so maybe I will tackle it this winter.

I have a newly remanufactured in box still # AL-240 (crosses to a Duralast 14824) that is a 55 amp Suzuki alt with a maybe 2-1/2" V belt pulley (my plan is to leave my still working OEM style charging system in place, just disconnected at stator plug & reg/rec .... as a back up) intended for like 1984-1994 Suzuki Samurai 1.3 lt. I can and do weld. I even have a spare timing belt cover set as well as spare fan (& radiator for what it's worth).
 
I want to use a three groove small serpentine belt so I will need to swap the alternator pulley .... and
... etc ... (I found my pulleys, these will work handily!)

UPDATED 12-09-16:
Got both pulleys finally, the smaller one was from Ebay, the larger one from the seller's site. Got both for a total of about $27 with shipping. Pics have details.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/391548330217?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

http://www.hipoparts.com/products/CV-Products-NASCAR-3-Rib-Serpentine-3.00"-Accessory-Drive-Pulley.html

Good ratio and compact.
Facts about CV Drive System Components:
CV Products offers the most comprehensive line of V-belt Pulleys and Drive Components in the racing industry! CV pulleys are fully CNC-machined to precise tolerances from premium 6061-T6 billet aluminum to ensure the highest quality. All pulleys feature a mil-spec hard anodized coating that delivers long-term reliability and greater service life.
I will have to adapt them to use.
 

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