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Since I cooked a brand new stator last summer, (Got a whole whopping 137 miles on it before it keeled over) I'm going that route also. I plan on going with the internal voltage regulator unit also. My question is- what to do with the current voltage regulator already on the bike. Do you leave it in or remove it? In my searches on doing the poorboy, no one has said what to do with it.
Since you are installing an alternator that has internal voltage regulation, you MUST remove the OEM Reg/Rect unit.... if you don't you can cause a fire in the wiring because it will attempt to shunt the new alternator straight to ground :(
 

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You've been doing a lot of research I see! That is some good stuff you have posted.
Thank You Sir! :)

I hope it helps others looking for pulleys. I have been putting this off a couple years at least .... and I'll have time this winter it looks like.
Two pulleys and I'm ready to start this Alternator "mod / upgrade".
Two Avon Cobra tires and I'm ready to start my SS brake line / GL1500 FD-RrBrk-Wheel "mod / upgrade".


Since you are installing an alternator that has internal voltage regulation, you MUST remove the OEM Reg/Rect unit.... if you don't you can cause a fire in the wiring because it will attempt to shunt the new alternator straight to ground :(

What I was thinking .... why I'm gonna leave in place but disconnected as a backup only. Sure not gonna pull the engine to lighten a hollow rotor.
 

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Since you are installing an alternator that has internal voltage regulation, you MUST remove the OEM Reg/Rect unit.... if you don't you can cause a fire in the wiring because it will attempt to shunt the new alternator straight to ground :(
Ah ha! I thought that it should be. What I wasn't certain of, if something else used the voltage regulator to draw power from.

Wonder why no one else included that info while doing a poorboy install?
 

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When writing things up like this, all writers have a tendency to leave out things that "they do by rote" and don't even give it any thought....

to anyone who is familiar with electricity, as I am, worked with it for 50+ years.
my/your brain just automatically knows that if a "better regulator is available" then the old one must be disconnected.

Leave it mounted physically if you wish, just be sure all the wires to it are disconnected and isolated, be that tape, or plastic twist locks.
 

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The Goldwing regulator does the shunting on the AC not the DC.

If your stator isn't working nothing will be harmed leaving both it and the regulator plugged in.
Just saying.:grin3:
 

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The Goldwing regulator does the shunting on the AC not the DC.

If your stator isn't working nothing will be harmed leaving both it and the regulator plugged in.
Just saying.:grin3:
Thanks Ken!

So like .... when I do mine ....
.... I should disconnect the three wires from stator to reg/rec as my stator and reg/rec are still working ....
.... and then I can leave the DC side of the reg/rec connected.

Makes sense ... I just hadn't thought that part out. No power in from stator, no shunting, no heat .... just standby. Something happen to alternator, stop, unhook alternator, plug stator in, go on my way.

I still have the connector in place that I replaced with the stator and it's still pristine. My idea was to pull it apart and wrap each side (male & female) and tape each out of harms way so as to be available but not in use ....
.... and I was thinking I maybe should do same on DC side, but I guess that would be optional.


:)
 

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I have a weak stator also on my gl1200i and I was wondering if it would help to use LED bulbs to cut down on the amount of amps the old lights pull? My headlight will dim when I step on the brake but there are the trunk lights along with the taillight.
 

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I have a weak stator also on my gl1200i and I was wondering if it would help to use LED bulbs to cut down on the amount of amps the old lights pull? My headlight will dim when I step on the brake but there are the trunk lights along with the taillight.
Absolutely nothing will be gained but the bulb seller's bottom line. The stator puts out the same no matter what the load. If your lights dim, that's kind of normal. Go through and check/clean ALL of your grounds and you may improve that a bit.

Oh, and make sure all of the plugs along the yellow wires are soldered.
 

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I have a weak stator also on my gl1200i and I was wondering if it would help to use LED bulbs to cut down on the amount of amps the old lights pull? My headlight will dim when I step on the brake but there are the trunk lights along with the taillight.
What Dennis implied, but did not say, is that Stators are a "Constant output" device.
They will push the maximum amps for the RPM as they can develop.

the Regulator's job is to suck down ( poor term ), meaning adds enough of a load shunted to ground to keep the volts from climbing too high for the electrical system.

14.4 is optimum, 13.6 is just maintaining the battery.

So, replacing the bulbs with LEDs will just add more work for the Regulator, it won't help the Stator. The stator will continue to push out the same amount of amps as it always has.
 

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Thanks for all the good information! I am learning as I go along. This is my first Goldwing, had a 1978 R100\7 BMW for 32 years and always loved the Wings, so I decided to buy an old one. It's needing some TLC but nothing I can't handle with a little help. I will be replacing fork seals etc. next. This is a great forum!
 
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