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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Naked GL1100 Build: Questions, Pictures, Parts! (UPDATE 10/19)

Hello all, nice to see such an active and helpful community.

I got the bike building itch, and have been slowly building up the motivation to sink some money into a bobber project. This is my first road bike, but I am no stranger to the wrench (my last car was a blown, built LT4 Camaro that I put together in a drafty polebarn at the peak of Michigan's Upper Peninsula winter!)

I recently picked up a 1980 GL1100 that I will be cleaning up and spinning into hopefully something of the flat black bobber variety. I've always loved the look of the "no nonsense" big bikes. I'm taking pictures of the tear down as I type this out, my Camaro build made me so sad when I had to sell it, as I had no pictures of the progress to remember it! Learned my lesson, this one will be well documented for my sanity...

So without further procrastination, it's time for some stupid questions!

The bike's speedometer is backwards, upside-down, in pieces, and yeah... Previous owner put a new cable on and it still didn't work, so he sort of took the speedometer apart and... well, that's all the further he got. So I need a speedometer, bothers me not having one. I don't really like the look of the gauges on the bike, and would rather just have two little bullet gauges and run some LED's on the tank shelter lid for my neutral/turn signal/hi-beam lights etc. My question is, what should I be looking for as far as gauges go? I used the search function to see what other guys do, but didn't really get any useful results, and got mixed information about the speedometer ratio. The main point: Do I buy a 20:1 or odd-ratio speedometer, or get a 1:1 automotive speedometer? Any information is helpful, if there's a guide I missed just shoot me a link. Would like to replace the tach too, like I said, so that information would be very welcome!

I will be cleaning up the carbs and grabbing some vac gauges to sync them, and my questions have already been answered there thanks to this and other Goldwing sites, but I would like to know if there's any special tricks you guys have for cleaning up all the aluminum and cast parts in the engine area. I'll be trying to get everything as clean and pretty as possible, and what doesn't shine like it's new will get painted.

I'll post up more questions as they pop in my head, but I appreciate any advice you guys have and look forward to your input once I get some pics up! Have a good one.

-Travis
 

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I don't know if Randacks has anything of interest for your project. He built a wicked looking supercharged 1000 with IIRC, side draft carbs.
Good luck and welcome to the site.

Pictures are very welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
More questions. What pressure are the air shocks in the front supposed to/suggested to be at? And what does that whole system do? I'm replacing the rear shocks with dual rate units and eliminating the rear air ride, this won't affect the front air ride will it?

I realized today that the bars I ordered were 1"... I don't know what I was thinking, but I will be getting 1" bars tomorrow that I have no use for, back up on ebay I guess.

There will be a lot of miscellaneous parts and pieces and such being removed from the bike, so if anyone browsing this has a particular request for something, I'd be happy to check and see if it's something I'm throwing out.

-Travis
 

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There was some kind of electronic multifunction speedo/tach gismo posted on this forum once upon a time. What are you going to do about a temp gauge?
The forks are supposed to be ran at 12 to 21 PSI, the rear has no effect on that.
 

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Welcome here and good luck with your project! I am also in the process of rebuilding an 80 GL1100, but I'm going for a more traditional look.
 

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Welcome:waving:TimeBomb
Most new members don't realize that the Steve Saunders Goldwing Forum is much like an extended family and as such we like to get together on various occassions to renew old friendships and make new ones. For example, each year we put together a huge celebration called the North American Steve Saunders International Rally (NASSIR). Unfortunately you've just missed NASSIR 6 in Simcoe, Ontario however there is plenty of time to plan on attending NASSIR 7 which is being held in Fontana Dam, NC on July 8-10, 2014. If you want additional information please follow this lnk and it well take you to a dedicated information page for the event! Welcome aboard!!!

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/13-nassir-meet-n-greet-forum/444833-nassir-7-information.html
 

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There was some kind of electronic multifunction speedo/tach gismo posted on this forum once upon a time. What are you going to do about a temp gauge?
The forks are supposed to be ran at 12 to 21 PSI, the rear has no effect on that.
I thought the frt on mine back in the day was from 5-7 psi.I've been wrong before though.
 

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I thought the frt on mine back in the day was from 5-7 psi.I've been wrong before though.
The 82 I just traded off still had the sticker on the handlebars, 12 to 21.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
As for temp, I'd really like to run just a conventional automotive temp gauge in the tank shelter lid. I'm big into turning things a lot more lengthy and less expensive than they should be when I have more time than money ;) So for all I know I might get a wild hair and make a temp gauge out of a string of LED's to go across the top of the tank shelter.

Dang. Now I want to do that.

The stock bars (I just don't like the look... or having my arms up that high I guess) cleaned up extremely well. If anybody wants them, let me know. It came with a nice looking luggage rack, as well. Covered in about 3 different colors of spray paint, but I'm sure some steel wool will take care of that and they'll clean up nicely.

-Travis
 

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Valve covers, belt covers , Carb tops and intake runners can all be buffed to near chrome look .
 

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My factory service manual puts it at 14 to 21 PSI.
Could be, I for sure remember the 21 since that is what I always ran it at.
 

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Welcome to the Family, Travis. I sure hope you share some of those pics with us. We LOVE pics.

You may also be able to get info for your project ove at Naked Goldwings (http://www.ngwclub.com/). Good bunch there with lots of bobber-type info. Many of us like our Wings with more clothes on. Except for Flyone, who is more of a thong kind of guy. :shock: Stick around and you'll find we become addictive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hey guys! Been working and wrenching just about every minute of every day. Have more time than money, so I'm trying to make sure everything I can find is perfect and clean and blah blah blah.

I will try and post pictures. I have a ton of them. The next two big projects are going to be trying to clean up the radiator and painting it up, and then doing some work on the custom seat.

Copper exhaust gaskets and my handlebars come tomorrow. Hopefully around tomorrow I'll have a mockup with the rims and tires back on the bike.

-Travis
 

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Hey Time where in North Port are you? I'm down by Price and Chamberlain myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I'm across the street from North Port Elementary ish, on the other side of Cranberry. Just moved down here a few months ago. Small world!

Just mapped out the wiring diagram I want to run. I'm probably going to end up running a Trail Tech gauge cluster mounted on the bars or in the tank shelter cover, so I can eliminate basically the entire gauge cluster (except run fuel and temp gauges and eventually all of the warning lights as smallish LED's in the tank shelter cover). Got my new bars, ignition switch, and exhaust gaskets today so I'm pretty excited to start mocking some things up.

ArmyVet, I actually worked at Five Guys in North Port since they opened up until yesterday, gave them my two weeks because they treat their employees like garbage and was promised two raises I never received. So if you ever stopped by there at night you'd have probably seen myself running the grill!

Also more questions:

It was suggested online that I use Moly 60 grease for the rear drive, does anyone out there just use regular got-it-at-auto-zone grease?

Any good ideas for a neat looking way to wrap my wiring?

-Travis
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Pictures coming, ladies and gents.

Well, here's how she started. How I got it, running mildly well and in reasonably good shape for a 30-something-year-old-bike. Lots of little issues. The key was lost so the ignition switch was hacked. The speedometer basically imploded. Everything was in some half***ed flat black, overspray everywhere, blah blah blah. Choke cable was frozen. Front tire looks a little beaten by the weather. Foglight headlights, one turn signal didn't work. Tach was in great shape, fuel gauge didn't work but I believe the temp gauge did, so hopefully not a regulator issue. Then my personal issues with the bike. The lighting is atrocious. The gauges are atrocious. The fenders are... you guessed it. So I did what any irrational 21-year-old grease monkey does when they have no transportation, more time than money, and no girlfriend to suck every penny out of their wallet. I got my wrenches and tore something apart.


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Luggage rack gone. I'll be cleaning it up and trying to get rid of it for anyone interested.

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Tear down has begun!

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08072013404 by travismihm, on Flickr
Cleaning up the crash bars to be put back on later. One or two little dents but they cleaned up nicely.


-Travis
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)

08072013405 by travismihm, on Flickr

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Ahh, clean chrome. Those stock handlebars will also be going up for sale, as will a set of broomstick 1" chrome bars because I brainfarted and ordered the wrong size.

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Cleaning up the carbs and manifold halves...

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I was told by the previous owner that the rear air shocks were junk. While when I test drove this I couldn't tell for sure, the rear end felt fine to me but I didn't know what it was supposed to feel like as this was my first real roadbike and Goldwing AND experience with air suspension. So, if anybody wants them, they're yours. I'll be cleaning them up when I have a chance. All I know is the boots are pretty beat up. Those are my dual-rate drop suspension I got from ebay. Still need to check and see if the original eye bushings are any good and will fit in the new equipment, but I got a bunch of different sized rubber bushings with the shocks. Either way, can't wait to see what kind of difference they will make in the ride and the stance.

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The rear rim cleaned up quite nicely. Still need to get some grease for that rear drive. I've checked the front and rear bearings for resistance and they looked new and felt slick as a whistle, so I'm going to bet that the neolithic grease in the rear drive is what made you feel like you had to be the Hulk to move this bike around yourself.

08082013420 by travismihm, on Flickr

-Travis
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
After a good blast of engine degreaser on just about every surface of the bike and my garage, I uncovered lime green enamel on the forks and a few other areas. Unfortunately there was overspray on the rim, caliper brackets, rotors, etc, so that was a real pain in the sack to get off. I ended up mocking up the bike with the forks unpainted to see what it'd look like, but I thought it was too much gray and painted them to match. The majority of the bike is either going to be in the factory gloss black finish or flat black, but if it came clean I left it factory basically. I didn't paint the engine because I figured my skills as a rattlecan artist wouldn't be enough to get it to look how I wanted it to (For more than a week, anyway...), so I decided to just wait until the day I can bring the engine/trans assembly in and get the whole shebang powdercoated. Buy once cry once, no sense doing all that work for nothing.


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The rear drive and carbs cleaned up real nice. I was thinking about painting the rear drive in flat to match some other parts but it turned out so well that I just can't justify covering it up. Could have spent a little more time making the carb bodies look better, but I was losing patience with the damn things and didn't want to get halfway through and give up, so I just did the vacuum caps and cleaned everything up nicely.


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My rough mock up with the incorrect handlebars to see how the front forks would look in bare metal. Didn't like it so much, but was VERY excited at how she was looking so far. Unfortunately, I've snapped three things off so far and don't have my dad's wonderful shop and corresponding toolage down here to take care of it, so I'm waiting on my check to get a set of easy-outs. Thankfully, nothing broke from siezure, but from just weathered fasteners. I have one bolt on the coolant return snout on the block, one bolt from the radiator, and the air fill port on the top of the fork. That one will be a pain because I don't want to get any shavings in there, but it's brass so I should be able to very lightly walk an easy-out in there and grip it enough to turn it back out. That one broke bizzarely under what I thought was hardly any pressure. I think it was already cracked. The other two bolts were backing out okay for coolant/exhaust hardware if you know what I mean, and snapped at some point on the way out of the threads. I'm hoping the easy outs will work fine here. If they had been siezed up, didn't move at all, and snapped right away, I'd go straight to a drill bit and a tap, but I'd rather kick an innocent puppy in the face before I deal with drilling out a bolt and retapping... ugh. There is nothing worse... other than what's worse when I remember what's worse because it will probably happen at some point in the next week.


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Reshaped the foam for more of a cafe-racer look. I would have liked a bobber seat, but I would like to have room for two. You know, just in case...

I'm hoping that I can take everything over to an upholsterer and just have them smooth that foam out nicely and put the new vinyl on for me. I have some great-looking dark charcoal marine vinyl they use on boat seats, I assume it won't cost too much just to have them smooth out that foam and re-cover it.


08122013442 by travismihm, on Flickr

Yesterday's job of being a kid and playing with markers all day. I wanted a solid understanding of the wiring diagram, what I was deleting, what I'd need to do about it and how to get it all back together, so I took about 6 hours and a factory diagram and traced everything out that I was keeping, or wanted to have available to me. Still need an idea to wrap the loom up nice when I'm done. I don't want to use electrical tape, and I don't want to use corrugated stuff.

-Travis
 

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My, you have been busy, looking good. How did you clean the carburetor jets?
 
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