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Discussion Starter #1
I have to replace my alternator which appears to be a serious undertaking. Does anyone have an alternator, or source for replacement alternator? I have tested the wires hoping the switch would be the answer, but I am not so lucky. Thanks!!! Gary
 

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Are you talking about the stator or does it have an external alternator?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Stock stator, although referred to in Honda parts as an alternator. Requires the motor to be removed from the frame to replace. The stock stator is no longer available from Honda.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Many people with failed stators/alternators found that the plastic plug burned out and failed. Mine was burned out and I have photos, but testing the 3 wires to the stator proved I need to replace it.
324322
 

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02 GL1800 w/Auto Pilot
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don't replace it, throw it away, lengthen wires if necessary, wrap them together, solder, and cover with Heat Shrink.

Plug Connectors should never be used in High Current situations.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The plug is definitely a goner. Unfortunately for me, I still need to replace the stater/alternator
 

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02 GL1800 w/Auto Pilot
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Many people with failed stators/alternators found that the plastic plug burned out and failed. Mine was burned out and I have photos, but testing the 3 wires to the stator proved I need to replace it.
View attachment 324322
OK, I just wondered what the problem you thought might be the switch, whichever switch you meant, might be.
 

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1993 gl1500, 1976 gl1000
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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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That conversion means cutting up the bike and some pretty hard work. I've never seen one that looked good. Also costs quite a bit more than a Randakk or rebuild.
 

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Here's two pictures of the external alternator mod I did to my '85 Limited Edition. Behind all the plastic is a 55 amp car alternator. Just need to take your time and be patient.

If you are going to do the mod in a weekend, probably less than a stellar look. I took almost three weeks to work on mine, test and trial method to minimize the impact and keep a good look.

The alternator is directly behind the two black vents in the first picture, I wasn't willing to cut any of the plastic - took the picture before I hooked up the second driving light.

Don't need a large alternator, a 30/40 amp is more than sufficient for the operation of a carb 1000/1100/1200 Gold Wing.

A 40 amp is more than sufficient for an '85/'86 fuel injected Gold Wing:

1200 Poorboy.jpg



Sheepskin.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You can also have your stator rewound. Where are you located?
there are a lot of them advertized, some will work long enough for you to get to the Gas Station.

RanDakks has a good reputation

see Dave's link Upgraded Stator - GL1000 - GL1100 - GL1200
OK, I just wondered what the problem you thought might be the switch, whichever switch you meant, might be.
Ordered the recommended stator from RanDakk and the service manual. Wish me luck! I have assistance of a modern certified Honda MC mechanic but this is well above my pay grade...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
You can also have your stator rewound. Where are you located?
Bellingham, WA. The local alternator repair shop was not interested, and if I go to all the time and expense of replacing this stator, the cost of new one is incidental.
 

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The stator really isn't that big of a job. You don't have to take the engine out of the frame. You can spin it enough to get to the cover bolts. I think you can tie the carbs up, then you loosen the motor mounts with the motor on a jack.

Hell, I've taken my motor completely out, twice, just for cleaning. True story.
 

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The stator really isn't that big of a job. You don't have to take the engine out of the frame. You can spin it enough to get to the cover bolts. I think you can tie the carbs up, then you loosen the motor mounts with the motor on a jack.
If you go that far why not take it completely out and make the whole thing easier to get to? My philosophy as a mechanic is 'if it's in the way remove it'.
 

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Agree with Dave0430. Take the engine out, give the engine, frame area and other bits a good clean. When you have the rear cover off, check the clutch, it is 36 years old. May want to look at the starter clutch (part of the rotor) - commonly called a sprague clutch - as well. When the rear case comes off, the manual indicates that you should drain the oil, good advice; however, there is still a good amount of oil in the rear case that does not drain out. Make sure you have something under the rear case to catch this oil, makes a mess - BTDT. Good time to open and clean the clutch slave cylinder. Lots of crud builds up over the years. Good luck:
Clutch Slave 2.jpg
 
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The stator really isn't that big of a job. You don't have to take the engine out of the frame. You can spin it enough to get to the cover bolts. I think you can tie the carbs up, then you loosen the motor mounts with the motor on a jack.

Hell, I've taken my motor completely out, twice, just for cleaning. True story.
If you read my post...

I agree mostly, but, my post to the thread starter is to assure them the job can be done without much fuss or lots of help. And, or, if time is of concern, you can do it like the actual Honda technicians did it. Loosen and turn.
 
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