I just got a 1985 goldwing 1200cc been sitting for 3 yrs got it running i drained all the gas and oil changed oil and filter put some good gas in with little seafome but still runs a little sluggish. does any one know if it has a catalytic converter ? thanks for the help
Need help, GL1200 sitting for 3 years
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No cat... did you do the fuel filter? Fuel lines? Did you just drain it or did you clean the tank too? Did you do anything with the carbs? The odds of sitting for 3 years and getting away without carb removal are very slim. And last, are you trying to run it without the air cleaner on? Those are good places to start, but the real gurus who actually know what they're doing are going to need more symptoms to help with a diagnosis...
Thanks
I put new fuel lines and new gas filter on cleaned tank really good and put new air filter on as well new plugs to. bike runs ok just has alittel sluggish to it. thought about keep running it and keep adding seafome to it and see if it clears it up. I also have no back brake paddle goes all the way down any suggesting on that? You might be right about the carbs was just trying not to go that far into it if i could help it. Thanks for the help
I put new fuel lines and new gas filter on cleaned tank really good and put new air filter on as well new plugs to. bike runs ok just has alittel sluggish to it. thought about keep running it and keep adding seafome to it and see if it clears it up. I also have no back brake paddle goes all the way down any suggesting on that? You might be right about the carbs was just trying not to go that far into it if i could help it. Thanks for the help
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Welcome to the forum.
Your new bike is about 28 years old. Your gas tank probably has rust in it that you can't see from the fill cap. Your fuel lines are probably the original ones. The carbs may never have been rebuilt.
These bikes can run 2-3 hundred thousand miles without major engine repair but there are many other aspects of the bike that needs maintained, repaired, or replaced in order to have good reliable ride and safe bike.
Are their any service records?
Which type of bike do you have? Mine is a GL1200I 1986.
Mine is a work in progress.
I assume you have some mechanic skills and some basic tools.
The owners manual and a service manual or two are available online and I would recommend you read them and maybe even obtain a hard copy or two.
There is a lot of good info here and on few other sites Google should help you find the info you'll need for most issues.
The more info you can provide with your questions the more accurate your reply's will be from the smartest Gold Wingers in the world here on this site.
Best to make sure your new bike is in safe riding condition before you find out on the road that it is not. Some have broken there bike for lack of checking it out and others have broken themselves. Most of us do our own work because we don't trust the shops to work on our bikes after having bad experiences and drained wallets.
IMO these are great bikes and worth the time and effort it takes to keep them safe and running.
Your new bike is about 28 years old. Your gas tank probably has rust in it that you can't see from the fill cap. Your fuel lines are probably the original ones. The carbs may never have been rebuilt.
These bikes can run 2-3 hundred thousand miles without major engine repair but there are many other aspects of the bike that needs maintained, repaired, or replaced in order to have good reliable ride and safe bike.
Are their any service records?
Which type of bike do you have? Mine is a GL1200I 1986.
Mine is a work in progress.
I assume you have some mechanic skills and some basic tools.
The owners manual and a service manual or two are available online and I would recommend you read them and maybe even obtain a hard copy or two.
There is a lot of good info here and on few other sites Google should help you find the info you'll need for most issues.
The more info you can provide with your questions the more accurate your reply's will be from the smartest Gold Wingers in the world here on this site.
Best to make sure your new bike is in safe riding condition before you find out on the road that it is not. Some have broken there bike for lack of checking it out and others have broken themselves. Most of us do our own work because we don't trust the shops to work on our bikes after having bad experiences and drained wallets.
IMO these are great bikes and worth the time and effort it takes to keep them safe and running.
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Probably going to need to rebuild the carbs.
The brake peddle operates the rear disk and one of the front disks. Many recommend speed bleeders to help get the air out.
The brake peddle operates the rear disk and one of the front disks. Many recommend speed bleeders to help get the air out.
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The engine will be damaged if a timing belt breaks. May want to check into that also.
Thanks for the info. ill read up on it the bike seems to be a good one just set to long. the man that i got it from keep it up and all just stopped ridding it i seen it one day and stoped and asked about it and we got to talking and i got it for $800 thinking i done missed up. he did just put a stater in it 3yrs ago .
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800 sounds pretty good from your repair list thus far. Timing belts are a good idea just out of principle. They're cheep and relatively simple if you follow the instructions.
The brakes need to be blead. The front and rear brakes are linked, so if you just try to bleed the rear you'll go nutz and get no where. Start by bleeding the fronts, then the rear and it should stiffen right up for you. I recomend a mity vac or similar hand pump for bleeding because its quick and clean. Since its been sitting, bleed it long enough to flush while you're at it (if you haven't already) and bleed that clutch real well too.
The brakes need to be blead. The front and rear brakes are linked, so if you just try to bleed the rear you'll go nutz and get no where. Start by bleeding the fronts, then the rear and it should stiffen right up for you. I recomend a mity vac or similar hand pump for bleeding because its quick and clean. Since its been sitting, bleed it long enough to flush while you're at it (if you haven't already) and bleed that clutch real well too.
Thanks on the bleeding tip wish i would have read that sooner lol . I been trying to bleed the back for over an hr. i well go see if i can borrow a pump .thanks a hole lot yall are very helpful here im learning alot i can work on cars bikes are a hole other story lol. Thanks
If you have good feel at the lever, I wouldn't bother with the left front caliper, yet.
Try getting some pressure going in the rear master cylinder first by bleeding the right front and then the rear caliper.
If you don't get some pressure at the pedal right away, the master may need rebuilding.
Try getting some pressure going in the rear master cylinder first by bleeding the right front and then the rear caliper.
If you don't get some pressure at the pedal right away, the master may need rebuilding.
There is a HUGE list of potential problems that an '85 GL1200 could have, and my '85 LTD had most of them. But it had also been badly abused and neglected. It sounds like yours has been neglected anyway, but that does not mean it will have all the problems. I would do the belts, just to prevent the engine from destroying itself. Not much point in getting it running good, just to have it blow up.
If the carbs were never drained, after 3 years you are definitely looking at a complete carb teardown and clean. I'm not familiar with GW carbs, since my LTD is fuel injected. So get a manual. And do one carb at a time, don't mix up parts. replace any gaskets and hoses/vacuum lines as necessary, make sure there are no vacuum leaks. Make sure your fuel filter is clean, and the lines are not restricted. With the gas tank almost empty, you can see inside it pretty good through the filler opening with a 2 AA Maglight. Mine only had one small round spot of rust right below the fuel filler. It looked like surface rust, so I left it alone.
There is a lot of other maintenance that should be done on a bike that old, the kind that almost nobody ever does. But it is better to get it running good first before getting into the rest of it.
If the carbs were never drained, after 3 years you are definitely looking at a complete carb teardown and clean. I'm not familiar with GW carbs, since my LTD is fuel injected. So get a manual. And do one carb at a time, don't mix up parts. replace any gaskets and hoses/vacuum lines as necessary, make sure there are no vacuum leaks. Make sure your fuel filter is clean, and the lines are not restricted. With the gas tank almost empty, you can see inside it pretty good through the filler opening with a 2 AA Maglight. Mine only had one small round spot of rust right below the fuel filler. It looked like surface rust, so I left it alone.
There is a lot of other maintenance that should be done on a bike that old, the kind that almost nobody ever does. But it is better to get it running good first before getting into the rest of it.
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Cry? :? How bad is it? And which threads?
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Time for damage assesment. Pull the line back out and see if it pulled the threads out of the hole, broke them off the fitting, or just cut into both.
Take his tools away from him, and make him stand in the corner...
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I had a bleeder repair on the '78 for about a year with no problems. Same front-end is a '77 now. Caliper is fine. No leaks.
If a tap won't restore it, then drill it for the repair bleeder, tap it for the repair bleeder and treat it as the same.
http://cdn.cheapcycleparts.com/images/TR/15/15-0309BleedrReprKit/supersize.jpg
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