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Riding my Gold Wing today I noticed the voltmeter showing 11.9 volts, and falling. Luckily I was close to home, and put it in the garage. Lucky considering I probably put 400 miles on it this past weekend. Turned the bike off, and decided to see if it would still start. Nothing. All I could hear was the relay "Clicking". Here is what I have checked so far.

Replaced 20 amp fuse in fuse box.

Swapped relays to see if that would help. Nothing. Lets out a good "Click" when

starter button is pressed.

Hooked up jumper cables to the car. (Engine off of coarse.) Still nothing.

Voltmeter shows 11.9 till I hit the starter. Then goes up to 12.2 when the

headlight goes off as it should with starter button depressed.

Haven`t found anything else that isn`t working. headlights, brake lights, radio,

C.B.

Checked large dog bone fuse.

Last thing I can think of, could the alternator have a open circuit that would

prevent the bike from starting????

What am I missing? I walked away from it till I can think, and maybe get some

input from the experts.



Tom Bishop

`98 S.E.



:praying:
 

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It is not the alternator, it does nothing until the engine is running. Nothing is getting to the starter and therefore no drop in voltage when you push the button, the voltage is increasing because the headlight goes out. Check the inline 5 amp fuse behind the right side cover, it goes to starter relay "B". If OK check that power is getting through relay A , to B and to the starter. It could be a bad relay A or B or the starter itself.
 

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Where is the 5 amp fuse behind right hand side cover? Near the battery? The bottom relay lets out a good "click" when
I press starter button. I also tried tapping on solenoid when trying to start. Not sure which relay is "A" or "B"
The one I get a click from is the bottom relay on the left.
Relay cover shows it is a 20 amp that controls ignition, and cruise.
Tom Bishop
 

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Starter relay A is just ahead of the battery, B is at the rear of the engine on the frame rail. The 5 amp fuse is in a fuse holder at the rear of the battery.
The relay you hear clicking is the headlight relay turning off when you push start.
 

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Hey Tom,

Does your radio "Mute" as you press the starter button (use the radio memory to select a station, turn it up a little so that you can listen for the MUTE as you press the "start" button)?



As goofy as this sounds, if the radio is muting then there's 12V switching correctly from the start switch (meaning hthat your BAS, Ignition/Cruise relay, the #11 Ign/Start/Cruise 15A fuse and the 30A fuse on the side of Relay A is good (This is the same 12V that would "pull-in" starter relay A)... A quick way to eliminate much of the stuff before Relay A.



(if you don't get the "MUTE", can you illuminate the "CRUISE ON" indicator using the puch on/off switch in the right handgrip? -- this will narrow the power issue a bit further.)



As mentioned, A switches "B" through that 5A fuse that Dave describes. (here's a quick look at the single-lug starting system showing that relationship ... Your '98 will be very similar..










There's some inter-dependance between the starting and charging systems:

* If the bike was running (like plugs firing) then you should also have had field voltage at the alternator (shared 12V source at the Ignition/Cruise relay)

* The 55A Dogbone (main) is in the charging path only (NOT in the starting igh-current path, but if your headlamps, tail lamps, & stoplights are out with the key in run-- then the Dogbone could be suspect

* The 30A fuse (there on Relay A) feeds the key switch -- so if the radio (and the radio's memory along with the lighting stuff above) works ok, the 30A is likely OK also.



Is there any chance that your Reverse Lever got bumped abit?
 

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I have checked the usual suggestions, kill switch, kickstand, reverse lever. Hope it wasn`t a sticking solenoid that had the starter spinning while driving. Didn`t notice any strange sounds. Strange that the voltmeter was reading below 12 volts while driving just before this happened. I got my manual out and located relay "A" and "B" and will be checking those out today.
Thanks for the help.
Tom Bishop
 

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Just got the bike running again tonight. Not really sure what fixed it. Put in a spare alterrnator I keep around. Rubber "O" ring on alternator was bad, and alternator had quite a bit of oil in it. Sprayed kill switch with contact cleaner, and replaced a 10 amp fuse on top of "A" relay. Looked kind of corroded, but had continuity.
Thanks for the help everyone!!!!!!!
Tom Bishop
 

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Tom
Glad to hear its running. I'm thinking the alt noting you had a low volts running & so its needing a rebuild. The seal behind the drive flange is leaking the oil into the alt filling it w/oil.
 
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